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35mm Lamphouse Problem - Rentec LSX 2000

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  • 35mm Lamphouse Problem - Rentec LSX 2000

    Hi all, I have a Simplex 35 PR1014 reel-to-reel that I virtually fully restored I had to purchase a new oil pump wheel gear but I got it working! Now I am having a problem with the lamphouse. The projector is attached to some obscure lamphouse maker I’ve never heard of in my life, a Rentec LSX 2000 with the name Film Systems on the control side panel. I’ve googled everything under the sun and searched through the vast amount of manuals on everything on here (shout out to film-tech for providing us all these obscure manuals on everything!) but I STILL cannot find anything on this unit - anywhere. My problem is that I cannot seem to get the lamp indicator to turn on and let the igniter have a chance to try to strike the lamp. I should note that originally the lamp switch did work and I could hear the igniter try to fire. If it was only hooked up to 120V AC to the rectifier. I took out only the lamp innards on the inside of the console and placed a temporary light source inside but that light source met its demise unfortunately because even though there was a fan inside that light, it was in a confined space and even with access for air to escape I guess too much heat built up.
    I have since ditched that plan since I was researching and learned that I could use an inverter arc welder as a suitable power source for the xenon lamp, so I reversed the tear down process and put everything back together. I can only seem to find one safety switch which is located inside the lamphouse access door which remains closed, so the switch should engage. I currently have the lamp leads pulled out of the rectifier and have them connected to the inverter arc welder. For good measure I also tried hooking the leads directly back into the rectifier and I cannot get the lamphouse switch to turn on even still. I connected the lamp leads back into the inverter arc welder which doesn’t do anything since as you know, there is nothing there to use as an igniter. Does anyone have any idea as to what I should do next? Currently the igniter that is in the lamphouse is connected safely in the shielded inside of the cabinet where the physical lamp is.
    I should note that I got this entire thing running on single phase 115-120V AC currently, since I don’t have access to 3 phase power. The inverter arc welder is connected to 120V AC as well but it inverts the voltage to DC to power the lamp. I would be just as happy to take out the existing igniter and try it outside the console to make it fire, but then I run into the problem not only of possible safety issues but also the length of the lamp leads. Anyone have any ideas? I have also seen some old 250-300 watt xenon microscope lamps and power supplies for sale online, so I could just scrap my rebuild idea and opt for that option that is sure not to fail. I personally would rather have the intense true light it was designed for! My concern is that the little xenon lamps wouldn’t be bright enough. Another idea is to figure out some kind of rig that will support the projector and some jerry rigged lamphouse. Thoughts or suggestions of what I could or should do?

  • #2
    The tesla coil in that igniter is capable of outputting 50,000 volts and the auto strike circuits in lamp houses have been known to catch even seasoned technicians and engineers by surprise (with many an exploded meter to show for it). I would be very careful playing around with this stuff without experience.

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    • #3
      Et tu Sean? it does hurt when it goes off.

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      • #4
        Rentec was Cinema Film Systems. Dick Niccum and Ron Offerman. They made crappy cinema equipment and imported Indian clones of the Cerntury. But Rentec also made some amazing lamp houses for the Iwerks 15/70 projectors that did not at all resemble the crappy cinema stuff. So they were able to go both ways on quality.

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        • #5
          http://www.film-tech.com/warehouse/manuals/CFS2000.pdf this is the manual you want

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          • #6
            You all are simply amazing! Gordon I’m grateful to you for providing me the manual. Yes, I was able to do a little digging and found that Rentec was Cinema Film Systems. I have done much rewiring for it and everything is running on 120V now except for the lamp itself. My problem is that the lamp switch indicator won’t even turn on anymore. I will have to refer to the manual regarding safety switches that may not be secured or something. The entire unit ran on 3-phase before so it’s very possible that the switch to 120V made it not function, although the indicator worked before - on 120V, which is the strange thing. I figured the igniter has a 3-phase input which is probably why I don’t get any response from those indicators. It’s still very peculiar to me. I just purchase a different igniter on eBay that has a 120V input. There isn’t a ton of stuff online about these units on YouTube that I have seen. I do know how they work, though. I do NOT plan on opening any of the units though, just merely swapping them out. I will consult the manual and go from there and give you guys updates. I read something about needing to add a capacitor to stabilize the arc in between the inverter welder and the lamp cabling. Is this accurate? Thanks guys.

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            • #7
              The igniter would not (and does not) have a three phase input, it has a 115v input and a connection to the power supply DC negative and the negative side of the lamp. The lamphouse runs on 115 volt "control" power to power the safety circuit (and probably the fans) and then will output that 115v if all the safety switches are closed to the power supply contactor 115v in to switch on the power supply. The power supply that comes with this console is a typical ORC/Strong/LP type. Very simple and reliable.

              You need a supply capable of building up 100-150+ volts DC of no load or open circuit voltage in order to trigger the auto strike circuit in that lamp house and to light the bulb. Even if you are able to get a HV pulse across the lamp without the high open circuit voltage it will not ignite. Again, not to be rude but this is kind of basic stuff and no one on here wants to see anyone get hurt.

              Sam, Luckily I never got hit from an igniter and never lost a meter (though ive seen someone else lose theirs!) the worst I ever got was 70 Vdc from a pro 35 changeover coil.

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