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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » SRD - Penthouse or Basement - preference? (Page 0)

 
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Author Topic: SRD - Penthouse or Basement - preference?
Mike Babb
Master Film Handler

Posts: 250
From: Norwich UK
Registered: Jul 2002


 - posted 04-16-2005 07:45 PM      Profile for Mike Babb   Author's Homepage   Email Mike Babb   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
This one is mainly for Louis or Steve but anyone else feel free to chime in. I more or less work with Louis' method of making sure digital is right before analog is done but also completely understand Steve's bouncing back and forth and do a version of it. I "center" the controls on the digital and board on analog before starting as well. My question though is if you had to adjust the lateral on the sound head, which do you prefer to nail, the digital and then bump the analog reader or analog and then bump the digital, or some combination of the two?

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 04-16-2005 08:20 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Are you doing a Century or Simplex, Kelmar or Component Engineering?

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Mike Babb
Master Film Handler

Posts: 250
From: Norwich UK
Registered: Jul 2002


 - posted 04-16-2005 08:52 PM      Profile for Mike Babb   Author's Homepage   Email Mike Babb   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
This would apply to Kelmar I imagine, but I'm asking generally, not for specific situation. I know with CE you can move the LED laterally.
Seems like if you center a Kelmar digital tube perfectly and the soundhead lateral guide on that, the analog might need to be bumped slightly. Or the same in reverse.
Oops sorry, Simplex 5* but I think the same q would apply to Century in this case.

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 04-17-2005 12:58 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
In general, you should align the analog first. With CE...always analog first. The lateral adjustment of the solar cell is quite limited thus you want the film to be fixed to the analog cell. With CE you then bring the LED into alignment with that. After that is said and done...the digital can then be brought into alignment with what you have already done...again, with CE the LED can be precisely matched to what you have done in the analog alignment so both are exactly where they need to be. The CE digital reader allows for easy lateral adjustment to have it dead center. What you don't have with the CE reader is the ability to move either reader vertically BUT they reference their readers off the sound drum and then pin everything so that alignment remains true. It is rather easy and fast to bring a CE system into precise alignment.

On the Kelmar system...for Century there is way too much demolition that is needed but good results can be had. I've done several JJs with the Kelmar (they are the only ones that properly support the R-50 soundhead for 70mm to bypass through the head).

Kelmar's problem is that their LEDs do not adjust and that they have too many variables. The LED bracket is not referenced to anything and is limited to just the mounting screws. Likewise, there is nothing really referenced on the analog reader...just limited by the mounting screws. As such, you can have the LEDs skewed to the reader pick up and hence some back-and-forth alignment may be needed to get it all precise. Since laterally you are most restricted on the analog side...you really should start there but since you pretty much have to remove the analog reader to fully adjust the digital one...you kinda have to finish with the analog reader.

Century is much more of a pain system in either case...their machining has generally sucked throughout the years. You almost need the CE 30-series to properly align the older Centuries (and some of the later ones too). The film should not skew as it goes from sprocket, to drum to sprocket...as such you may need to adjust the reverse reader cell to get it to laterally center up on the film...likewise the LED may need to be shimmed (on a Kelmar) to get it to line up. I have not come across this on any Simplex but several Centurys.

Another variable in the analog alignment is how the various companies have dealt with reflections in their lens tubes....Kelmar silk screens their cells while CE hand paints them (on the outer part of the slit)...sometimes the silk screen isn't well aligned. With the analog cell you really are aiming for a bullseye. The center must be center and the edges of the modulations should not be clipped. With digital, you have a CCD that is wider than the image...you have some slop factor. This is another reason I get analog precisely aligned first, then bring digital into conformity. Note too, on the CE readers, it is pretty easy to adjust magnification on both the digital and analog readers and sometimes you are best served by checking those...too little magnification on the analog will have your cell picking up the edges of the track and finding time code or other noises.

However, regardless of which system, digital or analog, one should get their soundhead mechanically right...it all starts there.

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 04-17-2005 07:49 AM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Mike: I center everything on the Kelmar, do Digital, then I find I have to "bump" the analog very slightly to make the lateral position "work." (BTW with analog at lowest current, I get Dolby level at 66% on the CP-500 bargraph, the same as I do with non-digital Kelmar red LED installations.) I NEVER touch the Digital once it is correct.

I not have much experience with the other reader companies, having started with Kelmar.

I agree that field installation of the Kelmar/Century is a bear. We usually do a frame swap with a previously machined casting from our stock. In the event that we ship a customer one of our Century "upgrades" (NOT a rebuild) we machine off the exciter mounts and precut the hole for Digital as well as clear off the slag and slot the old wiring compartment. If you don't then the LED will not always mount square and flat. If the customer only wants analog, then the old Davis bridge is reinstalled and a small piece of sheet metal covers the hole; digital later is then easy.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
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Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-17-2005 09:28 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Steve Guttag
I'll put my basements up against your penthouses...they will track any film your penthouses will.
Steve,

The main problem I have with basement stuff is that installing it in the optical soundhead will yield more inconsistent results overall because the optical soundhead itself is more likely to need regular attention to keep the digital working at its best, particuluarly 5 star and SH1000 type. Century is less maintainance generally, but the projector heads more than make up for that. As I mentioned there is a place in the buisness for basement type stuff but its not a really good thing for theatres that do not get "normal maintainance" on a regular basis or decent prints. About half the 400 or so screens we service get what I would call normal maintainance so I think you can see why I feel the way I do. In my experience even twice yearly is not enough tweeking for reliable operation of the older basement stuff. Sure they all work but there are far more critical variables having it down there. Penthouses for the most part stay working with little to no maintainance while optical soundheads don't stay working properly with out some occasionnal maintainance. Although I think you'd find yourself in a minority I'm glad that yours work out so well, but out here they just don't while the penthouses always keep on chugging along. The fact is that there are less variables that can be affected by lack of service on penthouses in general. There is alot of dust problem out west that you don't have back east and that is another contributing factor towards unreliable basement results for the most part. Many theatres here, even first run, have trouble getting decent SRD tracks on brand new prints let alone on second run and indeed many second run theatres get prints that have damage that even penthouse readers have a hard time with let alone a basement... even your basement readers would not read them and many times there are no extra prints to get. So perhaps you can understand whay we've stuck with what works reliably for us out here.

Louis,
Out of round gear..... now why don't you replace them dude? They can and will run really nice. Actually I've measured pretty low W&F specs on SH-1000s in the past. They generally average around .1 to .15% which is pretty decent and as good as many 35mm mag dubbers. Those out of round gears will certainly affect analog playback!! The Century direct drive JJ always measured higher than the 35mm Centurys, with the movement pulled it measured as good. I never saw much W&F difference between standard or direct drive except when a Bodine sync motor was used on DD, then it was consistantly higher because of hunting between poles. Three phase electronic drive always measured the lowest when set up on any Century. Also, the use of ABEC 7 bearings in any SH-100 type or Century sound head helps tremendously on the W&F specs!! The lowest W&F I ever measured on an optical repeoducer was on the Kalee 21 projector at .07% which is about the residual in the SMPTE film.

Mark

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 04-17-2005 10:07 AM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Mark: Of course you are right about out-of-round gears. Several years ago we did our W&F readings and found about 9 of 10 Simplex large metal gears to be not round. At the time, there was no source to get better ones so we either filed the existing ones or, if minimal, just overlooked the problem since Digital worked OK.

On the Centurys, there are 2 main imediments to low W&F. On standard drive the projector belt idler pulley in on the wrong side of the belt which causes acceration/deceleration of the projector when the back-side lump passes it by....Simplexx 5 star got that one right! Maybe I should make an adapter..

Using direct drive JJ vs. 35mm direct drive, some significant improvement is possible by using the JJ large flywheel. It is, unfortunately, hard to permanently change this due to doors being made differently. I have considered making a special Century flywheel with the mass of the JJ, but with a profile that puts the weight on the side near the operating side. This also improves gear "bounce" and the problem with shutter oscillation.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-17-2005 10:19 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Louis,
Have you tried any of the 3 phase solid state drive motors? These motors will yield better results and they run alot smoother too. One of these motors may just eliminate your need for that larger JJ flywheel. I've used Baldor, Reliance, and several others but prefer the Baldor. The drive is alot more user friendly than the others and the motor is heavier too.

Its also nice to take advantage of the jog feature to run the film down for those that have to do that. The jog feature is actually as easy on the gear train as turning the projector over by hand [Cool] .

Wolk, LaVezzi, and others can actually manufacture gears for you that are very tight tolerance in small batches for a fairly reasopnable price. Its less expensive to have your own made than it is to get em from Strong..... that is if you don't mind keeping some on the shelf. There were a lot of 1000's that had those goofy out of round gears and when they ran they made a funny whirring noise, easy to find em.

We recently had LaVezzi run us a batch of 35mm only VKF holdback and intermittent sprockets for the DP-70. Wolk made us gate bands. So we can now maintain all the DP-70's out here for many years and for a song compared to what Kinoton wants for the parts, 480.00 alone for a 35mm intermittent sprocket. The VKF's will in all likelyhood be the last set of sprockets any of these projectors ever get.

Mark

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 04-17-2005 03:51 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Watch out on those cheaper motor controllers...we had a reliance controller that wasn't too accurate on its frequency output. It said 60H but the film speed was over 25fps...a fudge factor was needed!

We've had great luck with TB Woods controllers...especailly the micro-drives. The Etracs are okay and a little less.

Tell the controllers that at 60Hz your motor is turning at 2400rpm and you whola, you have an FPS read out to two decimal places.

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Mike Babb
Master Film Handler

Posts: 250
From: Norwich UK
Registered: Jul 2002


 - posted 04-17-2005 04:28 PM      Profile for Mike Babb   Author's Homepage   Email Mike Babb   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks, and I also usually align lateral to the analog with the thought that it would be less tolerant of shifting than the digital, but probably both would be within acceptable range and I can't point to any problem doing it the other way. The analog lateral is also harder to bump "after the fact". Also my test film, I believe Dolby calls it cat 530 is measured at -2 azimuth, +1.72 lateral so one would hope they have enough margin built in, knowing that a printed Dolby tone loop is off that much.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-17-2005 05:04 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have had good luck with Baldor controllers

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-17-2005 09:15 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
It said 60H but the film speed was over 25fps...a fudge factor was needed!

There are two reasons for that happenning.

1. Motors, even these motors will run slightly fast with small loads that are under their rated load. Remember these motors generally run at the stated speed at full load.

2. There is nothing to tell the controller how fast the motor is going. There are feedback tachometers and controlers like the Baldor will take them and give you a precise feedback control for precise speed at all loads.

I've also found that the Baldors run a wee bit off speed with out a tach controller. I prefer not to use them though and just set the speed with an optical tachometer instead. For running the DP-70's I have to set the controller to 49.11 hz instead of 50 hz. There is also still some speed drift with out a feedback loop but it is far less than a standard AC sync motor.

Mark

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 04-17-2005 09:44 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Actually, we were using the Relianace controller on an ELMO LX-1100 with a bodine 3-phase motor...the motor and controller were of the proper rating. It was the controller...only that controller had the problem (we didn't use it on the next machine)...we measured the frequency too...the Relianace was simply wrong but it was cheap...and again.. with a fudge factor and going down to 1/10 of a frame per second accuracy, we had a usable system. We just normally get 1/100 of a frame per second accuracy.

Steve

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-17-2005 10:10 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I only used Reliance stuff once on a pair of Dailies projectors. It was for fast forword capability but I don't remember any speed problems at 24. Have not used the Woods as its not too common around here. We have an actual Baldor stocking office about a mile from the shop so I tend to stick with them. Their controler is very user friendly and extremely versatile. With the feedback loop you could be to about 1/1000 of a frame if need be, however it is alot of extra expense for the tach as the unit does 1/100th as standard. I suspect its very similar to the Woods.

Mark

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Frank Angel
Film God

Posts: 5305
From: Brooklyn NY USA
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 04-18-2005 11:12 AM      Profile for Frank Angel   Author's Homepage   Email Frank Angel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
This is getting WAY off topic guys & it;s my fault....so let's continue here: How to do 3D Interlock. Selsyns the way to go? It is sounding like these things are run just for speed control, but what about interlock....

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