Century intermittent preparation to run

[Mark Gulbrandsen]

I've read here that Simplexs are notorious for leaking oil too! Is there any projector with a mechanical intermittent that doesn't leak oil?

The older Simplex main castings are EXTREMELY porous. I have machined them to install both Strong and Kelmar turrets in the past. People also tended to over fill them, and all the excess oil runs out the main drive shaft and lots of seepage right through the bottom of the casting itself. The later castings when Strong produced them are not porous. But those will also leak once the main drive shaft seal wears out. I would generally replace the seal every couple of years...

[Adam Liberman]

Picked up a pair of the new-type intermittent shoes/pads and a backup intermittent for cheap on eBay.

[Leo Enticknap]

Barco have no trouble making them leak coolant...

[Randy Stankey]

That's why Simplex never made a digital projector. They couldn't figure out a way to make them leak oil!

[Adam Liberman]

It's quite rare to see one without an open film can on the floor, underneath the front of it, for this reason!

I've read here that Simplexes are notorious for leaking oil too! Is there any projector with a mechanical intermittent that doesn't leak oil?

[Leo Enticknap]

...some leaking is kinda normal on century's...

It's quite rare to see one without an open film can on the floor, underneath the front of it, for this reason!

[Will Kutler]

As an amateur, I cannot express the importance of not attempting to dis-assemble and rebuild yourself! Doing so requires someone who is trained in intermittent overhauling and who is a Precision Machinist with access to a properly equipped machine shop!

Those sprockets look excessively worn and will require replacement. As Mark G. stated, SAE 20 non-detergent!

Flush them with SAE 20. Turn them over and see if there is any binding or backlash on the sprocket. If there is any, then it will require adjustment or overhaul. When running at speed, any "ticking" sound also denotes required servicing. Sorry, my plate is full and I cannot overhaul for you at the current time. I do recommend connecting with Lou Bornwasser and/or Randy Lee Munro.

I have had several excellent conversations with Lou regarding specific OEM Century Intermittent manufacturing defects and how to correct them, which requires precision measurement and machining.

[Mark Gulbrandsen]

To do the draining, am I to remove the intermittent from the projector and turn it upside down to drain it?

To drain it, pull the screw that's located at 6:00 on the face of the intermittent. Just place a rag under it to collect the oil.

[Randy Stankey]

What's your plan? Do you want to just clean it up and get it to run or do you want to take it apart, clean, lubricate, adjust and replace any worn or damaged parts? You might also just clean it up to get it running then do a full, take-apart cleaning, later on.

If you are planning to tear the machine down, go ahead and take the intermittent out. If you just want to run it, leave the intermittent in place. Or, as above, just leave it in to get the machine working then do a tear down later.

[Adam Liberman]

To do the draining, am I to remove the intermittent from the projector and turn it upside down to drain it?

[Ryan Gallagher]

All more aggressive flushing methods aside. I would start simply by doing a couple oil change cycles one after another, manually cycling the flywheel, maybe some running and another oil change or two. It all kinda depends on what the oil looks like and how it is flowing on the drain port. Not draining well at all or seeing things in the oil, flushing with a solvent or Randy's approach might be warranted.

Then there is the question of how well it is holding oil, some leaking is kinda normal on century's, but the status of the thin gasket might be in question.

In Adam's case, I wouldn't take the intermittent apart unless there is real evidence you need to?

[Randy Stankey]

Right. I was thinking of using Marvel Mystery Oil to clean the intermittent, not to actually run on.
Use 50/50 mix with your regular oil. Run for a few minutes. Drain, rinse, repeat. Rinse with pure projector oil and drain then refill and use normally.

I wouldn't use pure Marvel at all. I wouldn't let the mixture run for more than a few minutes at a time. I wouldn't let it soak for more than a few hours, if at all.
When doing anything like this, always start by using the smallest amount until you know how things are working. Once you know what happens, decide whether things are working the way you want them to then make adjustments until you get the job done the way it needs to be.

I've never heard anything bad about Marvel if you use it for what it was intended. It's been used, ever since I can remember, to clean gunk out of engines and other moving equipment. The stuff is compatible with the interior and seals of most engines. I can't imagine anything inside a car that isn't comparable to the inside of an intermittent, only on a smaller scale.

That's more about what I am asking. Is it compatible when used carefully. Will it work? What are the drawbacks? Is it even worth trying?

[Adam Liberman]

The shoes??? If no one here on Film-Tech has them, then try Magna Tech in Miami. Just be sure the curved pressure pieces are not all worn out. Or request new curved pieces. You can see how different the later pad assy is compared to the early version. It also helps image steadiness to some degree...

Not sure which curved pressure pieces you are referring to. Is this not already part of the new pad assembly?

[Adam Liberman]

MMO is way too thin. Needs to be SAE 20 in a century movement. The oil spiral oil channels are made for that weight oil. Back in the olden days I used LaVezzi oil. But good luck finding that,,,

I think Randy was suggesting using it mixed with oil to flush the intermittent, then to replace it with pure oil (not in place of oil). But I've read other posts here concerned that flushing with a solvent isn't a good idea because you can't be sure that all of the solvent has been drained or evaporated before adding the oil.

[Mark Gulbrandsen]

1) Oil such as this? https://www.truevalue.com/product/sa...-motor-oil-qt/ Is oil sold as "intermittent oil" the same stuff?
2) These may only get run for a few hours per year. Would a synthetic, such as Superlube Multi-Use Synthetic Lightweight Oil ISO 68 be suitable to avoid eventually gumming up?
3) How can I identify the newer version shoes from the ones that I have? Suggestions on where to find them?
Thanks

That True Value oil should work ok. I love Superlube products, and ISO 68 is about the equivalent to SAE 20.

The shoes??? If no one here on Film-Tech has them, then try Magna Tech in Miami. Just be sure the curved pressure pieces are not all worn out. Or request new curved pieces. You can see how different the later pad assy is compared to the early version. It also helps image steadiness to some degree...