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Author Topic: Mothballing a car
Leo Enticknap
Film God

Posts: 7474
From: Loma Linda, CA
Registered: Jul 2000


 - posted 03-08-2004 03:41 AM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
A friend recently broke her hip in a skiing accident. As a result she is likely to be in hospital for several months and unable to drive for the best part of a year. She's asking me for help in 'mothballing' her car in a way which minimises any potential damage which could result from it being out of use for that long.

The vehicle in question is a 2002 Ford Fiesta, 1.4 Diesel injection, with 18k miles on the clock. My friend has a garage, which is a help. From a hunt on the Internet, I've found the following suggestions for long-term storage:

  • Make sure the car is bone dry before taking into the garage for the 'last time'.
  • Jack up vehicle and rest it on four axle stands, then deflate tyres to prevent flatspotting.
  • Drain oil, flush engine, then remove and discard filter. When car is ready to be used again, refill with fresh oil. Leave sump plug and filler cap open.
  • Drain the fuel tank and store contents safely away from car.
  • Store vehicle in garage with windows and sunroof a crack open, to prevent build-up of condensation.
  • Disconnect battery and remove to a safe place.
Is this all really necessary and is there anything I've missed? On the battery issue, I'm a little bit in two minds whether to do this, because if I do then presumably the engine management computer will lose all its settings and the radio security code will need re-entering (and knowing my friend, I bet she's lost the bit of paper with the code on it). I had in mind to charge it up every month or so to maintain this data. Surely if the fuel's been drained, then there is no fire risk?
Many thanks in advance...

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Daryl C. W. O'Shea
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From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from)
Registered: Jun 2002


 - posted 03-08-2004 03:53 AM      Profile for Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Author's Homepage   Email Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Emptying a fuel take may reduce the risk of wire, but it increases the risk of explosion. [Smile]

I'd rather have a fire. Just like I'd rather drop a match into a completely full jerry can rather than an empty or nearly empty one. Regardless, there's no more risk of a fire, etc. than there is any other day that the car is actually in use.

Whether all of the above is necessary is really a matter of preference and what the vehicle is really worth to her.

Disconnecting the battery and putting it on blocks is usually a good idea since it keeps the suspension from flattening out and avoids tire flat spots. Since the vehicle is on blocks, there's not much point in deflating the tires since they won't be touching the ground.

Draining the oil out is something I'd avoid. Changing the oil before and after storage is probably a good idea, but leaving the oil pan empty is something I prefer not to do.

Same goes with the fuel tank, and it really depends on the environment it is stored in, I like to leave it nearly full since it prevents condensation building up and corroding the entire tank.

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Erick Akers
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Posts: 201
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Registered: May 2001


 - posted 03-08-2004 04:37 AM      Profile for Erick Akers   Email Erick Akers   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Daryl,

This is a Diesel engine, as such I wouldn't worry about an explosion or rust in the fuel tank due to condensation. With Diesel fuel, being oil based,the entire fuel system should have ample protection from rust!

You're thinking gasoline, [Smile] Diesel has entirely different burn characteristics.

A Diesel powered car can be stored with fuel in the tank for up to three years without any fuel degredation.I know this from first hand experience.

A trickle battery charger would suit the purpose of keeping the battery charged while not running the risk of loosing critical (to her) non-permanent memory settings without causing damage to the battery.

Changing the oil is a good Idea, but draining is also unnecessary.

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Daryl C. W. O'Shea
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From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from)
Registered: Jun 2002


 - posted 03-08-2004 04:41 AM      Profile for Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Author's Homepage   Email Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I stopped thinking hours ago, I forgot it was a desiel powered vehicle.

Diesel fuel does seem to last forever. I think one of our 500 gallon diesel tanks hasn't been re-filled in about four years or so. No complaints from John Deere yet.

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Pete Naples
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From: Dunfermline, Scotland
Registered: Feb 2001


 - posted 03-08-2004 05:16 AM      Profile for Pete Naples   Email Pete Naples   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Absolutely, I change oil and filters, (transmission, axles etc too) when my Range Rover is going to sit for any length of time. I don't like the idea about removing the oil filter and leaving the sump plug and filler cap off. Dust and dirst will settle in there, and also the oil pump is boud to become de-primed, ok the chances are on a modern engine it's self priming, but there's still going to be that awful few seconds at start up where there is ZERO oil circulating.

Either drain the coolant or make sure it's up to spec on antifreeze, you don't want to come back to a cracked radiator or block.

Something that's not on Leo's list: Leave the handrake disengaged, otherwise it'll be frozen on in a years time. The advice about leaving a window or sunroof open is sound.

With regard to the battery: It will go flat over that period of time, almost sure of it. Personally I'd remove it, but make sure yo've got the radio code. You can buy gadgets to keep the vehicles memory systems going from 9v PP3 batteries of it's that big a worry, but Ford diesel (It's an Endura aint it?) management systems aren't all that clever anyway. The TDCi is a different story.

I give all the locks and hinges a good oiling before long term garaging, and also WD40 and wipe the door seals, they just love to stick otherwise.

On an aside, when you do come to restart the engine, I'd remove the glow plugs or injectors and spin the lump on the starter until the oil pressure warning light goes out. Then start the engine as normal.

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Scott Norwood
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From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 03-08-2004 07:12 AM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Disclaimer: I don't know much about cars. Having said that, would it be worth considering the idea of having someone drive the vehicle once per week or so, rather than mothballing it? It seems like most mechanical devices last longer when they are used, rather than when they sit idle (and are allowed to rust, etc.). Am I completely crazy to think that this would be a better solution? Or are their other considerations (not wanting to pay insurance cost for a year, etc.) that enter into this discussion as well?

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Leo Enticknap
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From: Loma Linda, CA
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 - posted 03-08-2004 09:28 AM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, I did think about a plan B, which was to use the car for one round trip to work each week. This would put around 5k miles on it, assuming Serena is out of action for a year. But there are several arguments against that: I'd have to insure myself on it (about £200), the car would have to be road taxed when that runs out next month (£160), and putting 5k miles on it would incur maintenance costs and significantly depreciate the value of the car. All that compares with a cost of around £100 for axle stands and a complete change of 'bodily fluids', so to speak. Furthermore, Serena's flat is a 40-minute walk from mine and the car is not very comfortable for someone of my height (6'4"), all of which makes me want to mothball it.

quote:
Whether all of the above is necessary is really a matter of preference and what the vehicle is really worth to her.
It's a pretty new car (less than 2 years) with quite low miles, so I think it's worth taking care and doing the job right.

The concensus seems to be:
  • Yes to raising the car off the ground for storage;
  • Yes to leaving windows a crack open;
  • Leave fuel tank full to prevent condensation/corrosion;
  • Leave handbrake disengaged;
  • Replace engine oil, gearbox & axle lubricants before storage and then again immediately before re-use;
  • Drain coolant and replace immediately before re-use;
  • Remove battery for storage, making sure I have the radio code first;
  • When restarting for the first time, remove injectors (though this might be easier said than done - I haven't looked under the bonnet yet) and turn over engine by hand to prime oil pump before operating starter motor.
Thanks for your help, folks. Looks like I've got a fun weekend in store!

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Gerard S. Cohen
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Posts: 975
From: Forest Hills, NY, USA
Registered: Sep 2001


 - posted 03-08-2004 09:51 AM      Profile for Gerard S. Cohen   Email Gerard S. Cohen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You might check with your friend's doctor and rehab person, since the people I know who had broken their hips were able to walk (with the support of a walker) within a day or two of reconstructive surgery.

With power steering and braking, and perhaps some adjustment to the control pedals, the period of recovery may be shorter than you imagine, and make some of the steps you are planning unnecessary.

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Pete Naples
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From: Dunfermline, Scotland
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 - posted 03-08-2004 10:17 AM      Profile for Pete Naples   Email Pete Naples   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Leo, removing the glow plugs is a lot easier than removing the injectors, they are designed to be easily replaced, a bit like spark plugs in a petrol engine.

Another one, throw a dust sheet over it. It's amazing how much muck will settle on a vehicle in the space of a year!

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Leo Enticknap
Film God

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From: Loma Linda, CA
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 - posted 03-08-2004 10:48 AM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
You might check with your friend's doctor and rehab person, since the people I know who had broken their hips were able to walk (with the support of a walker) within a day or two of reconstructive surgery.
Sadly the prognosis here isn't as short term. The hip is actually broken in several places. She also has fractures in her upper leg, two ribs and right arm. The accident happened just over a fortnight ago, since when she's had two operations: the best case scenario is that she'll need two more. She hit a concealed rock when skiing downhill at high speed while on holiday in Austria. The doctors estimate a timescale of 4-6 months in hospital and 9-12 before being fit to drive again. And Serena is a doctor herself (a GP who has done a fair bit of looking after orthopaedic patients in the final stages of recovery).

So if she's buying that story I think it's worth working on the assumption that the car won't be seeing much use for a while. It may be that she ends up selling it anyway - her consultant reckons that many people recovering from these injuries prefer an automatic, which this isn't. But if she does do that we obviously want the thing is as good a condition as possible when the time comes to flog it, hence the mothballing exercise.

Pete - thanks for the tip about glow plugs. I've never done any work on a Diesel before (all my cars have had petrol engines), but I'm sure that with a Haynes manual, all will be revealed!

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Steve Kraus
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From: Chicago, IL, USA
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 - posted 03-08-2004 11:28 AM      Profile for Steve Kraus     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Would there be some value in cranking the engine once (not long enough or fast enough to start it) after it has cooled down from its last run? The idea would be to leave a nice film of oil on the cylinder walls that is not burned away in combustion and those last couple squirts from the fuel injectors would clean the nozzles so the fuel wouldn't get baked in and carbonized from residual heat which, I don't know, but could be a problem if it then sits for months.

This sort of reminds me of On the Beach where the guy carefully mothballs his sports car for the coming eons as all life dies due to nuclear war.

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Leo Enticknap
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From: Loma Linda, CA
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 - posted 03-08-2004 02:14 PM      Profile for Leo Enticknap   Author's Homepage   Email Leo Enticknap   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
Would there be some value in cranking the engine once (not long enough or fast enough to start it) after it has cooled down from its last run?
I certainly can't see how it could do any harm.

quote:
This sort of reminds me of On the Beach where the guy carefully mothballs his sports car for the coming eons as all life dies due to nuclear war
Well, this situation is certainly a bit depressing - not least because my friend took the holiday as a way of drawing a line under a drawn-out and traumatic divorce. But I certainly hope it doesn't get that depressing! Still, it could be worse - at least I don't have to look after her cat.

Funny you should mention On the Beach, though - Nevil Shute is one of my favourite authors, and I was re-reading In the Wet over the weekend.

Thanks again for all the tips.

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William Hooper
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From: Mobile, AL USA
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 - posted 03-09-2004 12:45 AM      Profile for William Hooper   Author's Homepage   Email William Hooper   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I don't know much about diesels, but for gasoline engined cars it's best to drain the tank. Also oil & gas can leave 'lacquered' deposits over time as they sit, wreaking havoc on fuel pumps, oil galleries in the head, etc. And it always seems that the worst things that hit cars which sit up is the brake systems crap out with the seals in the cylinders perishing, rusting of the brake lines (worse with non-silicone brake fluids, since they're hygroscopic), & rubber suspension parts deteriorating. And the water pump! What is it about water pumps which crap out from sitting up?

In general, if you had the choice of acquiring a car that had been in storage for a year or one that was only driven on weekends, you'd want the second one. Ask your friend if you can take her car to the dirt track on weekends.

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Pete Wolla
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From: Tioga, ND, USA
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 - posted 03-09-2004 08:33 PM      Profile for Pete Wolla   Email Pete Wolla   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
a good HMO would have her home in a week open the door and run the car on the stands once in a while or at least a hose on the exhastout the door

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Randy Stankey
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From: Erie, Pennsylvania
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 - posted 03-09-2004 09:51 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
My thoughts:

* Change the oil and run the engine for a short time before putting the car up. (Driving back from the mechanic is enough.)

* Leave the tank full to prevent water condensation in the tank. Diesel fuel won't foul like gasoline can. If you're worried about that, how about some fuel stabilizer?

* Put the car up on blocks but keep the tires pressurized. Tubeless radial tires tend to lose air if they aren't taken out and heated up every few days. Check air pressure regularly. Once the pressure goes down below critical levels, the bead can break loose and you'll have a blowout when the tires come under weight.

* Take the battery out of the car and store seperately or use a trickle charger. The engine computer doesn't store THAT much information. It uses "fuzzy logic" to regulate the engine. It will quickly "relearn" what it needs to know.

* Does the car have airbags? (I assume it does.) You'll definately want to remove the battery. After about 5 minutes of down time, the air bag deployment system loses its backup power. This lessens the chances (however remote) of the air bags deploying on you for no reason. Yes, I have seen airbags that have gone off for no reason while the car was sitting still! It's truely a rare occurence but, hey! 5 minutes worth of caution is worth the potential trouble saved!

* If you can, take the car out and drive it every once in a while. Oh, every month or so... One year isn't THAT long for a car to sit but getting the oil flowing through the engine can only be good for it.

* Leave a window slightly open and/or put a package or DampRid (Calcium Chloride crystals) inside the cab to absorb excess moisture from the air.

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