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Author Topic: Regular Motor Oil vs. Synthetic Bob Brown Expert Film Handler Posts: 146 From: Grand Rapids, MI Registered: Apr 2002 posted 09-02-2003 04:54 PM                        I have a 96 T-Bird with about 105,000 miles. It is still running strong and motor is humming fine. I have been told by many people that I should be using the formulated Synthetic motor oil for high mileage motors. I have always used 5w - 30 Valvolene Oil. Any thoughts on switching. If I do switch oils, is there any precautions I should adhere to.  |  IP: Logged Bruce McGee Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1776 From: Asheville, NC USA... Nowhere in Particular. Registered: Aug 1999 posted 09-02-2003 05:32 PM                     I switched to Valvoline DuraBlend synthetic mix about 2 years ago on the advise of my uncle who has been a motor mechanic for about 65 years. We both used Havoline (Texaco) for many years and were satisfied. My uncle told me to check the idle speed on the car both before and after the switch to DuraBlend. He said that it would increase speed slightly due to the superior lubrication. It did. My 1985 Olds Toronado with 102,000 miles idle speed went up around 30 rpm. I am sold.  |  IP: Logged Greg Mueller Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1687 From: Port Gamble, WA Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-02-2003 06:02 PM                        One of the selling points (I was told) is that synthetic does not attract water like regular oil, so for something like an RV that gets driven only on occasion, it is better. Is that true? And what about that Amsol stuff? When I had the shop at the ultralight park, a sales guy did a demo with a sheet of metal and some regular car oil and some Amsol oil. He heated the sheet metal with the oil on top. The regular oil ran away from the heat, but the Amsol ran towards it. Seems like that would be what you wanted. I just feel a little doubtful about the Amsol name. Wonder if consumer reports has ever done an oil review?  |  IP: Logged Charles Everett Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1470 From: New Jersey Registered: May 2001 posted 09-02-2003 06:15 PM                     I bought my '90 Taurus used when it had 35K miles on it. I wanted to switch from regular 10W-30 to Mobil 1 but a garage mechanic advised me against it. He told me Mobil 1 wasn't designed for a Ford engine. Yesterday that Taurus went over 160K miles. Still runs good, routine service and all.  |  IP: Logged Paul G. Thompson The Weenie Man Posts: 4718 From: Mount Vernon WA USA Registered: Nov 2000 posted 09-03-2003 01:11 PM                     Charles said: quote: He told me Mobil 1 wasn't designed for a Ford engine. Check in the vehicle owner's manual. It'll tell you what kind of API service ratings the manufacturer recommends. Then look at the oil bottle or can and see if it has that rating. API Service Classifications: Briefly, the API service classifications are a 2-letter rating, beginning with the letter "S" or the letter "C" and followed by a letter from "A" through "J." "S" stands for "service" and designates an oil primarily for gasoline engines. "C" stands for "commercial" and indicates an oil for diesel engines. Many oils meet the requirements of both series and have a dual service classification, such as SH/CD. The service classification rating system began in the early 1970s. The earliest S-classification oils were SA, SB, SC, and SD. You can think of the successive second letters-A, B, C, D, and so on-as indicating increasingly higher quality. In fact, each successive service classification has been an improvement on previous classifications and exceeds the earlier performance requirements. Although some low-cost oils rated SA or SB can still be found in some stores, service classifications SA through SF are no longer recommended for use by most vehicle manufacturers. SG, SH, and SJ oils can be used in older engines and should be used in all late-model engines because they lubricate and protect better under all operating conditions. The SJ classification is recommended for 1996 and newer gasoline engines and can be used in any earlier engine. The oil I use in my engines has an API classification of SL. I use it in everything except the Diesel engine in my truck. In that rig, I use Delo 400 or Rotella.  |  IP: Logged Paul Mayer Oh get out of it Melvin, before it pulls you under! Posts: 3836 From: Albuquerque, NM Registered: Feb 2000 posted 09-03-2003 05:52 PM                        I used synthetic (Delvac 1, then later Mobile 1) in my '68 VW Type 1 (bug) for the last two thirds of its 265,000 mile life with me. One thing I noticed when I switched over to synthetic was an increase in "wetness"--synthetic is very good at finding the tiniest places to leak or seep through. The crankcase on bug engines splits right down the middle just like most airplane engines--that seal along with the crank endseals always seeped on my engines using synthetic. Engines ran good on it though. For the current car (an '85 Mazda 626) I'm using a more traditional high detergent content oil--Chevron's Delo 400 in SAE 15W-40 weight. The Mazda ran very well on it (lots of freeway driving between LV and LA in those 190,000 miles). I'm about to put a new engine in the car and plan to continue using Delo 400. Good stuff!  |  IP: Logged Paul Turner Expert Film Handler Posts: 115 From: Corvallis, OR, USA Registered: Apr 2001 posted 09-03-2003 06:05 PM                     Ok, it's not a car, but I switched my Harley over to synthetic oil before taking my summer ride (3100 miles). Major Difference: Runs cooler. Don't know about all they whys, but NO pinging under load going up hills in Wyoming when it's 107 degrees. Got stuck in line at customs at the Canadian border for 2 1/2 hrs. 85 degrees, 88 cubic inches of heat generating engine under me and it felt to me like there was less heat for the "weenie roast" than usual. Easier starting when hot and less engine noise when cold were noted. Interesting note: When i spill some dino oil when doing an oil change or whatever, I hit it with Simple Green, then wipe it up. Hit a puddle of synth with SG, and it just beeded on top of it! My gas cap lock got stiff so I took the dip stick and put a drop of oil in the lock and got a drop on the paint. Finally had to use Windex to get it off the paint -- it would not wipe off. I think it's great stuff.  |  IP: Logged Paul G. Thompson The Weenie Man Posts: 4718 From: Mount Vernon WA USA Registered: Nov 2000 posted 09-03-2003 11:22 PM                     Paul, be careful of the oil you use in your Hog. Although your engine might be running cooler, I would be very concerned about the viscosity being too thin - which will result in an early crank pin and rod bearing failures. Been there....  |  IP: Logged Mike Blakesley Film God Posts: 12767 From: Forsyth, Montana Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-04-2003 12:11 AM                        I think the type of oil you use is less important than just being sure to change it regularly, every 5000 or less miles, even if the manual says you can wait longer.  |  IP: Logged Paul G. Thompson The Weenie Man Posts: 4718 From: Mount Vernon WA USA Registered: Nov 2000 posted 09-04-2003 02:03 AM                     Mike, today's engines have to run at higher speeds, work harder, and run hotter. I have a tendency to think some of the oils that can be found with the SA through SD API rating might not "cut the mustard" with today's late model engines. Oh, sure...they will run...but will wear out faster, too. As an edit, I wish some of the motor oils that are made today were available in the 1950's and 1960's. Maybe I would not have burned up so many rod and main bearings in the Buick Dyna-Trash Fireball 8 engines... [ 09-04-2003, 02:08 PM: Message edited by: Paul G. Thompson ]  |  IP: Logged Paul Turner Expert Film Handler Posts: 115 From: Corvallis, OR, USA Registered: Apr 2001 posted 09-04-2003 04:08 PM                     To Paul G. Thompson: I too was concerned about the dino/synth oil switch-over, so for the first oil change I put a crowbar in my wallet and sprung for the Harley Synth Oil. Expensive, but I didn't worry about it being right for my bike. Watching the news groups to see what people are switching to and how it's working out for 'em.  |  IP: Logged Josh Jones Redhat Posts: 1207 From: Plano, TX Registered: Apr 2000 posted 09-04-2003 05:53 PM                        Wow , what great timing My bike needs an oil change as well, and the manual recomends SE or SF grade oil. Should I use a synthetic in it? Josh  |  IP: Logged Greg Mueller Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1687 From: Port Gamble, WA Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-04-2003 08:09 PM                        I was wrong it's not Amsol it's Amsoil. I picked up their catalog at the fair and the "Synthetic High Performance Motor Oil" looks pretty good. Anyone know if this stuff is good or not?  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-04-2003 08:27 PM                     I use synthetic in everything I own. My Kia, my 92 Harley, and my DP-70. Its interesting as my DP-70 ahs been on loan to a local plex while we complete their permanent DP-70's. All the others are running the standard Norelco oil. Mine running with LaVezzi oil has by far the quietest mechanism in the plex. Read the information on the Mobil 1 web site and you'll never use regular oil in anything again. Mark @ CLACO  |  IP: Logged Paul G. Thompson The Weenie Man Posts: 4718 From: Mount Vernon WA USA Registered: Nov 2000 posted 09-04-2003 09:09 PM                     Josh, I think you will find API classification SF is a synthetic oil. Just be sure it is of the correct viscosity. Skagit Powersports is an authorized Castrol vender for their Yamahammer Motorcycles. http://www.castrolusa.com here is something else to check out: http://www.amsoil.com/products/amf.htm http://www.amsoil.com/products/amv.htm You might be safe using that stuff. For now, you might want to contact your dealer and see what he I would stay with their recommendation for now. But remember they might be "pushing" some off-the-wall crap that they can make money on. I don't trust motorcycle dealers any further than I can throw a gorilla with a sprung hemorrhoid.  |  IP: Logged

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