Film-Tech Cinema Systems
Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE


  
my profile | my password | search | faq & rules | forum home
  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Ground Level   » Making brass look good again. (Page 1)

 
This topic comprises 2 pages: 1  2 
 
Author Topic: Making brass look good again.
Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-09-2002 01:36 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have a bunch of old fashioned brass stanchions/ropes that we use for crowd control instead of those newfangled Tensabarriers. We have our people clean them regularly with brass polish, etc but they end up looking cruddy in hardly any time at all.

My new boss has asked me to look into getting them "dipped" to keep them shiny . I asked him what he meant and he told me that he didn't know exactly. "Dipped" is just what he heard should be done to them. I imagine he means that he wants them lacquered.

So... Where should I start looking to get this done. I suppose I could scan the phone book but I don't even know what kind of place to even call.
Second, is this worthwhile? When I have seen lacquered brass fixtures they look nice when they are new but when the lacquer gets chipped up, etc. they look even worse than they would if you just let them turn green. I suppose that means we will have to get them redone every year or so. Is this economical? I would say that it reduces labor but at the expense of having them re-lacquered every year.

If it's worth it I'll find a place and have them done. If not I'll just recommend that we just keep cleaning them the way we have been.

Opinions?

 |  IP: Logged

Jerry Chase
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1068
From: Margate, FL, USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 01-09-2002 02:27 PM      Profile for Jerry Chase   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Lacquer probably won't hold up under heavy use, as you suggest. When I was playing the trumpet, the sweat in my hands would strip off the lacquer on the valves fairly quickly even using a handkerchief, and I just kept the area polished rather than send it off.

I would imagine some of the clear epoxies would hold up fairly well though. You could spray lacquer just the poles and not the post top as a compromise. Lacquer can be removed easily when damaged and re-applied. Clear-coat Krylon is just spray lacquer IIRC.

I'm curious myself how musical instrument makers get the clear and totally flawless coatings on the convoluted brass tubing of the horns.

 |  IP: Logged

Greg Mueller
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1687
From: Port Gamble, WA
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-09-2002 03:26 PM      Profile for Greg Mueller   Author's Homepage   Email Greg Mueller   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I made brass telescopes for an outfit one time. They had me polish the brass up on the lathe and then apply spray lacquer. Guess it held up fairley well, but I don't know as I never owned any of the scopes I made. Sure was a mess, and smelly too.

------------------
Greg Mueller
Amateur Astronomer, Machinist, Filmnut
http://www.muellersatomics.com/

 |  IP: Logged

Chris Erwin
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 195
From: Olive Hill,KY
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 01-09-2002 03:56 PM      Profile for Chris Erwin   Email Chris Erwin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Randy,

At the house I used to work we had brass crowd barrier poles. We would use a product called "Brasso", it's kinda like a liquid wax for brass. You'd apply it with an old rag (i'd wear gloves too) and then after a minute, wipe and buff to a shine. Seemed to work well. Sometimes you'd have to use it a second time and put some elbow action into it, but lot of the shine usually came back, even on older or really nasty pieces.

--Chris

 |  IP: Logged

Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-09-2002 04:24 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That's exactly what we use now. Problem is when somebody touches a pole with their bare hands they leave a hand print. If it's not wiped off pretty soon, it starts to leave a stain.

IF you keep up on the polishing, the things will look good but once you stop cleaning them they look crappy in a short while.
We use Work Study students to do most of the work so payroll isn't as much of a problem as it is in other places. However, getting the WS students to do it often enough is hard.

We TRY to get the people who move the stanchions to use gloves. They do it most of the time. However, you can never prevent customers from putting their hands on them as they go through the lines.

In the weekly staff meeting the subject came up and I was asked to look into this. My thoughts on this are as I stated above... Yes, they will look nice LONGER when they are lacquered/coated but when the coating (be it lacquer or whatever) gets old, cloudy and chipped they will look crummier than they would if you didn't do anything. Then they would need to be redone.

I suppose, if the cost isn't too much, it might be worth it to get them done. Once a year, in the "off season" we could send them out to be done, or even take them back to the workshop and do them on-site if it's easy enough.

Cost and PITA value are the main factors I'm looking into, here.

 |  IP: Logged

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 01-09-2002 04:36 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Brasso first, then maybe an excellent grade of car wax or something?

I would not clear-coat them - they would look funky.


 |  IP: Logged

Bob Maar
(Maar stands for Maartini)


Posts: 28608
From: New York City & Newport, RI
Registered: Feb 2001


 - posted 01-09-2002 08:36 PM      Profile for Bob Maar   Author's Homepage   Email Bob Maar   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Randy, Do you know who supplied the stantions. Call them and see if you can send them to be refinished.They may have the proper equipment to make them shine like new.

If they have been lacquered you may be in trouble. Always better to get the pure brass then it can sparkle like new for many years.

If you can not identify the manufacturer call the Lawrence Company in Bayshore, New York and speak to customer service and ask their opinion.

 |  IP: Logged

Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-09-2002 10:10 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
After reading Paul's answer, I asked around about the waxing thing. I found out there is a product called Reniassance Wax that museums, etc. use to protect important objects like silver tea sets and things like that. It goes on in a thin coat and protects against tarnishing/staining and it's supposed to be easy to remove. (An important thing when it comes to expensive museum pieces.)

I'm thinking I'll try to find a supplier of that product from a museum conservation supplies dealer. Then I'll take Bob's suggestion and contact the manufacturer for their opinion on having them professionally cleaned. If it all works out we could wax them up real nice and only have to wipe them with a clean cloth for maintainence. Every few months, we could then polish them up with Brasso and then give them another coat of Reniassance Wax.

How's that sound?

 |  IP: Logged

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 01-10-2002 03:12 AM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sounds like a plan, Randy.

 |  IP: Logged

Jim Ziegler
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 753
From: West Hollywood, CA
Registered: Jul 99


 - posted 01-10-2002 03:46 AM      Profile for Jim Ziegler   Email Jim Ziegler   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Randy,

The retractable Beltracs (which pose less of a trip hazard than standard poles and ropes) are only around $110 each.. By the time you have the poles professionally cleaned and then apply speciality products, it might just be more worthwhile to replace them.

 |  IP: Logged

Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-10-2002 12:43 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Long ago, before I went South, I made the exact same suggestion. I told "Da' Boss" that BeltTracks/Tensabarriers were the best thing to have. He told me that style was key. (I have to agree with him on that.) Tripping isn't such a big deal. They are set up at the beginning of a show and they are taken down before the end of the show by the FOH team. Besides, they bases are weighted. They aren't likely to tip over unless somebody runs directly into one.

When they are clean, they look great. When they are not clean they look like ka-ka. It's just a matter of getting them clean again and KEEPING them clean.

Hello... Work Study! Uncle Sam isn't paying you to sit on your butts all day! The brass polish is in the closet! Hop TO it!

PS: Bob... They are mfg. by Lawrence.


 |  IP: Logged

Rachel Gilardi
Madam Moderator

Posts: 2214
From: Peabody, MA, USA
Registered: Dec 2007


 - posted 01-10-2002 04:51 PM      Profile for Rachel Gilardi   Email Rachel Gilardi   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
At the theater I used to work for we also had brass poles. What I found worked best was using the brasso once a week with a crappy old cloth and shining it everyday (It only takes about a minute a pole, IF THAT) with a brass cleanser cloth, like the ones people use to shine brass intruments, you can buy it at most music stores.


 |  IP: Logged

Gerard S. Cohen
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 975
From: Forest Hills, NY, USA
Registered: Sep 2001


 - posted 01-10-2002 06:37 PM      Profile for Gerard S. Cohen   Email Gerard S. Cohen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Many brass polishes promise to leave a protective residue on the brass
after polishing. But I find it's better to wash it off with a solution of dish detergent and water to prolong the shine. Then rinse with clear water. (Any residue only hastens tarnishing.)


 |  IP: Logged

Bob Maar
(Maar stands for Maartini)


Posts: 28608
From: New York City & Newport, RI
Registered: Feb 2001


 - posted 01-10-2002 09:18 PM      Profile for Bob Maar   Author's Homepage   Email Bob Maar   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Randy,

I figured they were Lawrence, they have over a 90% share of the market.

I use to manage a Newsreel Theatre in Times Square, NY. The entire front on the theatre was "Brass".I had to have it polished everyday
do to its' high visibility in Times Square.

I challenged the staff to see who was the best Brass Cleaner in the circuit.The winner received an extra $2.00 dollars a week in their pay check.

This was in the days when assistant managers made $44.43 for a 48 hour week.

You got to love this business.


 |  IP: Logged

Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-10-2002 10:19 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The theatre also has brass railings on the balcony and at the front of the "rear orchestra" seats along the side aisles. Maintainence cleans the railings regularly but they do get schmutzed up.

I called a company called Gaylord Bros. (gaylord.com) who supplies archival materials to libraries and museums. They sell Reniassance Wax as part of their line of conservtion supplies. The cost is about $25 (plus shipping) for a 1/2 pound container. They also sell a product called Ruben
Brite
. It is a brass and metal polish that says it provides a "carnuba shine". I'm assuming it contains carnuba wax. That also sounds promising. An all-in-one solution would be nice.

Right now I'm debating whether it would be better to get the wax only product and use regular brass polish or to use the all-in-one polish/wax. I'm leaning toward the two step process because I think it would be better to get all the dirt off before applying the wax. That way, if there was any contamination left on the metal after cleaning you have a chance to get it off before sealing it in with wax. (Just the same way using Mc Guiar's car wax is better for your car's finish than using regular Turtle Wax.)


 |  IP: Logged



All times are Central (GMT -6:00)
This topic comprises 2 pages: 1  2 
 
   Close Topic    Move Topic    Delete Topic    next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic
Hop To:



Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classicTM 6.3.1.2

The Film-Tech Forums are designed for various members related to the cinema industry to express their opinions, viewpoints and testimonials on various products, services and events based upon speculation, personal knowledge and factual information through use, therefore all views represented here allow no liability upon the publishers of this web site and the owners of said views assume no liability for any ill will resulting from these postings. The posts made here are for educational as well as entertainment purposes and as such anyone viewing this portion of the website must accept these views as statements of the author of that opinion and agrees to release the authors from any and all liability.

© 1999-2020 Film-Tech Cinema Systems, LLC. All rights reserved.