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» Film-Tech Forum   » Operations   » Digital Cinema Forum   » dark time & output delay time ??

   
Author Topic: dark time & output delay time ??
David Torres
Film Handler

Posts: 4
From: 5628 AP, Eindhoven, Netherlands
Registered: Jun 2011


 - posted 06-22-2011 12:21 PM      Profile for David Torres   Author's Homepage   Email David Torres   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What are these parameters of projector setting?

For active 3D, like XpanD, are these settings different for double flash and triple flash? Any recommended best settings... [Confused]

-David

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Frederick Lanoy
Film Handler

Posts: 85
From: North of France
Registered: Aug 2009


 - posted 06-22-2011 02:40 PM      Profile for Frederick Lanoy   Email Frederick Lanoy   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hello,

For Xpand :

Dark Time : 1000 for Triple Flash / 500 for Double Flash.
Output Reference Delay : - 700 for Triple Flash / - 300 for Double Flash.

These are the values from Xpand company. Therefore, it's the best setting.

Fred.

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David Torres
Film Handler

Posts: 4
From: 5628 AP, Eindhoven, Netherlands
Registered: Jun 2011


 - posted 07-14-2011 01:25 PM      Profile for David Torres   Author's Homepage   Email David Torres   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thank you.

It works fine with the settings. [Smile]

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12084
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 07-16-2011 07:41 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Think of the dark time as a shutter blade...how long is the projector projecting NOTHING. Think of the "delay" as the shutter timing.

With the single lens 3D systems, you need to keep the wrong eye from being projected when the glasses/wheel/polarizer is set for the "other" eye. It takes a finite amount of time for these apparatuses to switch eyes so just like when film advances with an intermittent, so too do the two eyes with 3D.

Using a suitable test pattern, one can often tweak these settings to get a brighter more ghost free image (like an adjustable shutter blade that you can not only adjust its timing but also how tall the blades are). Remember, it is better to have less ghosting then trying to get that last ray of light. The "factory" suggested settings have always "worked" for me for the various 3Ds. That said, in some hard-case situations, I've been able to eek out more light without negative results by hand tweaking the dark/delay settings.

-Steve

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