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Author Topic: lamp issue on a Barco DP-100 Joe Elliott Master Film Handler Posts: 497 From: Port Orange, Fl USA Registered: Oct 2006 posted 02-19-2010 01:39 PM                     We have a Barco DP-100, an earlier model, that we are having issues with striking the bulb. Our Strong rep installed it, and tried to solve the problem. Our company went with Cristie for the PM contract on it, because all of the other digitals at the other theaters are Christies, they did something, that helped for about 8 months. I am currently trying to get ahold of our christie guy, but he may not respond today. The problem is this: The bulbs get increasingly hard to strike after about 100 hrs. Today I had to try to strike the bulb about 30 times (with 4 tries each button press), when it finally struck. I have cleaned all of the contacts on the cables, made sure they were tight, removed the star washers as I was told these could cause a bad connection (didn't help at all). I cleaned both ends of the wires leading up to the lamp module, and the prongs that the lamp module interfaces with are clean. I have tried increasing the amperage via the touch screen, and it beeps when you press the button, but the amperage and wattage stay the same, so I think that may be locked out to the end user. What else can I try, and are there any retro fit kits that we may need to install to fix a problem like this with the earlier models. We do by the way have the new front bulb mount, that eliminates the dumb insulator design.  |  IP: Logged Demetris Thoupis Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1240 From: Aradippou, Larnaca, Cyprus Registered: Apr 2001 posted 02-19-2010 07:43 PM                     You either have a SPG (Signal Pulse Generator) problem or one of the LPS has gone bad not giving sufficient no load voltage to allow the lamp to strike. Did you try a different lamp? All these modules are software driven so a tech can easily check the problem on the error log of the projector. Demetris  |  IP: Logged Joe Elliott Master Film Handler Posts: 497 From: Port Orange, Fl USA Registered: Oct 2006 posted 02-19-2010 08:01 PM                     quote: Demetris Thoupis You either have a SPG (Signal Pulse Generator) problem or one of the LPS has gone bad not giving sufficient no load voltage to allow the lamp to strike. Did you try a different lamp? All these modules are software driven so a tech can easily check the problem on the error log of the projector. Demetris We have gone through multiple lamps. I have now 6 in storage plus 2 we had sent back that won't strike. It starts at about 100 hours, and we get some to last through to the end of their warrenty +20 % (500+100 hrs). Some just stop being able to start. What you said does make sense, because it is obviously not the bulbs. There is nothing that shows up on the error log though as far as I know. Could the LPS voltage be low enough to not start the bulb, but high enough to not generate an error? I think we have gotten an error maybe twice in 2 years that mentions the LPS, but I don't recall what it was. It was when we still had the old front bulb support in. That old bulb support would commonly leak voltage to the frame, which caused all sorts of random messages from the lamphouse.  |  IP: Logged Demetris Thoupis Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1240 From: Aradippou, Larnaca, Cyprus Registered: Apr 2001 posted 02-19-2010 08:25 PM                     You could easily measure the output of the LPS when the lamp is off. Depending on the lamp size of course if its greater than 110V DC then the LPS is fine. If it's lower it will make very difficult for the lamp to strike. If you hear the spark then that means the SPG is probably fine. What size lamp are you using? If you measure a value of 110V DC on the LPS output and still the lamp does not ignite you need to change the SPG module. Star washers is another issue but you said that is already handled. Demetris  |  IP: Logged Joe Elliott Master Film Handler Posts: 497 From: Port Orange, Fl USA Registered: Oct 2006 posted 02-20-2010 01:05 AM                     We were using 6k lamps, we have now started using 6.5k lamps. I will try taking some readings on it tomorrow night after we close, assuming that they are able to get it to light tomorrow. Otherwise, I'll be up there in the morning.  |  IP: Logged Hendarto Ciputra Film Handler Posts: 8 From: Jakarta / Indonesia Registered: Jul 2008 posted 02-20-2010 01:18 AM                     On the start pulse generator, there're two short wire, they are accesible when u open the side panel that covers the engine side. Swapped them, it should do the trick, it's a known issue with earlier SPGs rgds  |  IP: Logged Demetris Thoupis Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1240 From: Aradippou, Larnaca, Cyprus Registered: Apr 2001 posted 02-20-2010 05:44 AM                     The only cables on the SPG are the thick ones from the power supply! Are you suggesting him to swap the polarity? Good luck! Also one last remark. If you are using Osram lamps it would be wise to swap to Ushio. Osram digital lamps at those high wattages are known to have problems - hard to ignite, premature blackness e.t.c. Demetris  |  IP: Logged Chase Taylor Expert Film Handler Posts: 175 From: Troy, Alabama, USA Registered: Mar 2001 posted 02-20-2010 10:40 AM                        I will second that on Osram.  |  IP: Logged Hendarto Ciputra Film Handler Posts: 8 From: Jakarta / Indonesia Registered: Jul 2008 posted 02-21-2010 01:13 AM                     @Demetris don't be silly, not the thick cable, there's another pair, very short cable located in the inner part of the SPG. It is part of barco's infoT for problems pertaining to lamp that is difficult to strike when using older gen SPGs. Anyway joe, here's the document from barco about it http://www.megaupload.com/?d=2DMYR2NK  |  IP: Logged John Walsh Film God Posts: 2490 From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way Registered: Oct 1999 posted 02-21-2010 08:54 AM                     I think Hendarto is right; there is a service notice about this, but I don't know if it includes the earlier models. It involves removing one resistor on each of the three power supply modules. Also, there does seem to be a bad batch of Osrams going around, but there doesn't seem to be enough info (ser numbers, mfg dates, etc.) to identify them.  |  IP: Logged Demetris Thoupis Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1240 From: Aradippou, Larnaca, Cyprus Registered: Apr 2001 posted 02-21-2010 08:59 AM                     Digital Lamps of 6 and 6.5K of Osram are prone to failure and hard to ignite. Osram has yet to fix the issue. Who uses Osram these days anyway? Ushio is the right choice. Demetris  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 02-21-2010 10:24 AM                     Operating ANY large lamp 6kw and over is a touchy situation at best! It's the re-ignitions that will kill them. Recently in Salt Lake City a 6kw Ushio exploded in an NEC 2500 with only about 250 hours run time on it! I don't bet on ANY large short gap lamps these days as they are becomming more and more mass produced. Mark  |  IP: Logged Joe Elliott Master Film Handler Posts: 497 From: Port Orange, Fl USA Registered: Oct 2006 posted 02-21-2010 12:20 PM                     I'm going to try the polarity swap that Hendarto mentioned, as we do match the criteria to a T. I have a hard time believing that it is just the bulbs though, as it will strike the first time 9/10 and then will not strike at all the 10th time (at least not for 20-30 strikes), but then strike just fine again for 9/10 strikes. It is possible that the lamphouse has some damage due to those faulty insulators. It did fry a board internally already, and blew the audio in our first server, when we first received it in, before I found the problem. Which for those who find this post and wonder what I am talking about, if your Barco DP-100 has this type of front bulb mount, there is a retro fit kit for it. I apologize for the blurriness. These pics are from the camera on my phone. And this is what it did to the internal board. I do not have a picture of the retro fit kit, but it is essentially a new UV glass filter, with the bulb mount attached to it. You leave in the old insulators to keep light from leaking out, but they are no longer used as the bulb end mounts. Again, this is just for those seeking info on the insulator issue and the damage to the projector and server that can result. For us, this issue has been solved.  |  IP: Logged Demetris Thoupis Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1240 From: Aradippou, Larnaca, Cyprus Registered: Apr 2001 posted 02-21-2010 12:41 PM                     It will be interesting getting those readings from the LPS before and after the modification for reference. Hope it will fix your issue. Demetris  |  IP: Logged Joe Elliott Master Film Handler Posts: 497 From: Port Orange, Fl USA Registered: Oct 2006 posted 02-21-2010 01:18 PM                     Yes, I wonder if our problem isn't in the LPS because of the randomness of it, but if the polarity is reversed, that can't help the problem either. I always like to err on the side of caution, so I don't believe a problem is fixed until it has been running without fail for 6 months. Even if it seems like a fairly obvious fix, so I'll be watching the LPS voltages for a while. And one more thing, it won't light within 3 minutes of having the bulb on prior. It maybe a built in fail-safe to keep someone from striking a hot bulb, but when we first got it, one of our guys would strike the bulb a few minutes before starting the show, to make sure it was going to light, and then would shut it off. Then he couldn't get it to start at showtime. We kept wondering why he had problems with it every time he worked. Once I found out, I told him, just leave the bulb on, it won't effect anything.  |  IP: Logged

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