my profile | my password | search | faq & rules | forum home

» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Replacing B&H worm gear , 16mm projector

Author Topic: Replacing B&H worm gear , 16mm projector Jonathan Wood Expert Film Handler Posts: 206 From: Oxfordshire, United kingdom Registered: Jan 2008 posted 09-30-2018 12:27 PM                     Hi all, I’m looking for a bit of advice from those knowledgeable on 16mm machines . I’m pretty happy tinkering with 35mm but I’ve not much experience fixing 16mm. My question is , how feasible is it to replace a worm gear yourself or am I opening myself up to a world of frustration and pain ! The machine in question is a TQ1, old I know but in otherwise immaculate condition and so much better built than the later plastic ones . I’ve got several old mechs that I’ve practised on and removing and replacing the gear itself , although fiddly , isn’t my main concern. I’m more concerned that I’ll never get the timing right . Unfortunately the original gear has disintegrated so I can’t make any marks to line things up with after reassembly. I know there are people here in the UK who offer this service but I’d kind of like to have a go myself but not at the expense of ruining the machine . Any help or advice will as ever , be gratefully received! Jon  |  IP: Logged Abraham Robinson Film Handler Posts: 16 From: Oakland, California, USA Registered: Oct 2017 posted 10-01-2018 10:59 AM                    you should post / look through the threads on 16mmfilmtalk.com - lot's of useful info on B&H worm gears there  |  IP: Logged Scott Norwood Film God Posts: 8146 From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas) Registered: Jun 99 posted 10-01-2018 11:30 AM                        As I understand it, this is a difficult repair because B&H machines require a number of alignment and calibration tools in order to re-assemble them properly. If you have the tools and the service manual, then it is probably fine to attempt. If not, it is probably best to find a camera or audio-visual repair service that has the tools and expertise to do it properly. The other problem is that, unlike 35mm machines, these 16mm portables use tiny parts. Depending upon your dexterity, this may or may not be a problem.  |  IP: Logged Jonathan Wood Expert Film Handler Posts: 206 From: Oxfordshire, United kingdom Registered: Jan 2008 posted 10-02-2018 02:47 AM                     Thanks guys , yes the general opinion seems to be it’s too tricky unless you really know what you’re doing !  |  IP: Logged Leo Enticknap Film God Posts: 7474 From: Loma Linda, CA Registered: Jul 2000 posted 10-02-2018 04:59 AM                        There was a place, in Lincolnshire if memory serves me correctly, that was making new steel worm gears, either for sale for DIY installation, or a swapout service. This struck me as a much better idea than using plastic or bakelite, which are probably going to chip or crack again, sooner or later. I've just Googled, but can't find them. As Scott points out, you need expertise, patience, and some very specific tools. That is why I've always preferred Eiki 16mm portables - their modular design means that pretty much anything that can go wrong with one can be fixed by a DIY-er. The B & H worm gear represents the nightmare combination of a part that is both life-limited and a huge pain to replace.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 10-02-2018 09:57 AM                     For pittance that 16mm projectors go for these days I wouldn't even bother to replace it. But I would replace it with an Eiki or Kodak just because they are very serviceable... Mark  |  IP: Logged Emiel De Jong Film Handler Posts: 48 From: Geldrop The Netherlands Registered: Mar 2007 posted 10-03-2018 01:23 AM                     This webshop in the Netherlands offers their self made parts: https://www.van-eck.net/itable.php?lang=en&size=0&cat=film&merk=15&type=Filmosound%20TQI%20(model%20652)  |  IP: Logged Bill Brandenstein Master Film Handler Posts: 413 From: Santa Clarita, CA Registered: Jul 2013 posted 10-03-2018 05:28 PM                     ...which is impressive as they offer both the still and non-still versions, 3D printed. (Nice work as always from Edwin.) Urbanski has both now, too. My 2592 is now a 2585 because the still function worm gear was unavailable just a few years ago when my machine was rebuilt. Not sure how 3D printed material and Urbanski's "long life black plastic" compare, but I'd jump on either of these in a heartbeat over a new-old-stock original vinyl gear that's just going to split open again. Somewhere along the line Gary Hoselton published a document detailing the awful and convoluted process of how to replace the worm gear yourself. He can be found at 16mmfilmtalk.  |  IP: Logged Gary A. Hoselton Film Handler Posts: 59 From: Portland OR U.S.A. Registered: Nov 2005 posted 10-20-2018 07:38 PM                     Replacing the worm gear isn't that hard to do, just must be careful and organized. Entire mechanism can be removed from mainplate, can rebuild in situ or remove to mount in jig. An older machine should come apart anyway, so as to clean and lubricate and adjust everything. I'd use Larry Urbanski's worm gear with the black plastic surface, I'd guess it is Delrin AF which is quite stable. I'm not sure about a metal surface worm, as mechanism was designed for plastic-plastic gear teeth interface. Older B&H have solid case and all, but have much more stuff in them to get in your way. I'd recommend the last B&H, 2585 and 2592 in the U.S. If a 2592, which has the pause function, I'd eliminate it by using regular 2585 worm gear and remove the extra parts--they just get in the way of servicing the mechanism and we wouldn't dare use stop-motion for fear of damaging film. If you want my overhaul procedure, email me and I'll send file to you. Have fun!  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 10-24-2018 06:08 PM                     I'm more concerned with the shuttle claw, being these will eventually get a notch at the base and underside of the tooth on the pulldown and it's good bye for steady image.  |  IP: Logged

All times are Central (GMT -6:00)

Printer-friendly view of this topic

Hop To: Select a Forum: Category: Operations -------------------- Digital Cinema Forum Film Handlers' Forum Large Format Forum Ground Level Feature Info, Trailer Attachments & REAL Credit Offsets Category: Community -------------------- Film-Yak Film Handlers' Movie Reviews The Afterlife Bob Maar's Joke-A-Thon Category: Classified -------------------- Equipment and Supplies Wanted/For Sale Help Wanted/Seeking Employment Category: System -------------------- Software Beta Testing Forum

The Film-Tech Forums are designed for various members related to the cinema industry to express their opinions, viewpoints and testimonials on various products, services and events based upon speculation, personal knowledge and factual information through use, therefore all views represented here allow no liability upon the publishers of this web site and the owners of said views assume no liability for any ill will resulting from these postings. The posts made here are for educational as well as entertainment purposes and as such anyone viewing this portion of the website must accept these views as statements of the author of that opinion and agrees to release the authors from any and all liability.