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Author Topic: Orcon Lamphouse Steve McAndrew Film Handler Posts: 95 From: North Yorkshire, UK Registered: May 2015 posted 09-02-2017 10:02 AM                     I have a Orcon 1600 lamphouse with a problem. The lamp strikes fine but during operation the lamp goes out very very briefly then comes back on at random inetrvals. I have tried two lamps, but both show the issue. Any advice on where to start trouble shooting would be great. Thanks  |  IP: Logged Frank Bolkovac Film Handler Posts: 27 From: Monroeville, Pa. USA Registered: Mar 2011 posted 09-02-2017 12:13 PM                     Check your "Air Flow Switch". This will be located in or near the squirrel cage cooling fan with a "paddle" on the end.Clean or replace the assembly. Many times, just short it out.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-02-2017 07:35 PM                     Assuming an ORCON power supply this is usually caused by a bad blocking diode. When it gets warm, the junction opens up and kills DC to the lamp. Its hard to actually diagnose. You either have to place a meter on the through (output) side of the diode and check the DC voltage, which will probably be non-existent when the lamp goes out Wrong 61000 series had this same issue. The blocking diode may be on a heat sink by itself or it may not be. It could also be one or more stud mount rectifiers opening up as the unit warms up. I've seen all forms of this happen over the years. It would help to know which rectifier you actually have. Mark  |  IP: Logged Steve McAndrew Film Handler Posts: 95 From: North Yorkshire, UK Registered: May 2015 posted 09-03-2017 01:11 AM                     Thanks for the replies. It's an Orcon 1600B, so the rectifier & lamp house are all in one. It looks as though the capacitors have been replaced at some point to more modern ones. The lamp only flickers off for a very small amount of time, half a second maybe. It also doesn't seem regular, maybe a little worse when switched on.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-03-2017 02:25 PM                     The blocking diode is on the diving wall inside the lamp house. It's pretty obvious. Replace it with an 85 amp stud instead of the 40 amp that's normally in them. I assume it's like this one. The four main rectifiers are a bit more work to replace, and that requires pulling the power supply assembly out of the casing. Mark  |  IP: Logged Steve McAndrew Film Handler Posts: 95 From: North Yorkshire, UK Registered: May 2015 posted 09-03-2017 02:35 PM                     Thanks Mark, The 1600B is a little bigger and a slightly different design, I will take some photos of the inside and post them tomorrow. Thanks Steve  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-03-2017 07:52 PM                     Good idea Steve. I am not sure they ever sold a self contained model 1600 here. The 1600 always had a separate power supply. The Model 1000 is whats in the image above. Mark  |  IP: Logged Steve McAndrew Film Handler Posts: 95 From: North Yorkshire, UK Registered: May 2015 posted 09-04-2017 06:16 AM                     Here are some pics....  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-04-2017 12:04 PM                     That's the most bizarre thing I have ever seen! They were never sold here like that. Anyways, all those semi's are antique and should probably be replaced as well as ALL of the electrolytics in the entire lamp house. It appears the blocking diode is in the upper right picture on it's own heat sink, but really need to see the rest of the insides and the circuit boards. A full overview image might also help if you happened to snap one. That MR1215 diode is a 100 amp fwd diode with a 10/32 stud. Mark  |  IP: Logged Steve McAndrew Film Handler Posts: 95 From: North Yorkshire, UK Registered: May 2015 posted 09-04-2017 01:30 PM                     Here are some more pics, think I have managed to find some replacement diodes so will try swapping them out. As I mentioned the capacitors look fairly modern.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-04-2017 02:02 PM                     This ranks as one of the most bizarre things I have ever seen... But that single diode on the heat sink looks like it's probably the blocking diode. I would start there and at the same time also replace all the electrolytics on the control PCB(s). There were two control PCB's in the Model 1000, but I oly see one here. This appears to be an SCR regulated power supply like the smaller Model 1000 is, this is just a larger version of that. What the blocking diode does is isolate the low voltage ~20 volt DC from the higher voltage 140 volt starting DC. And of course on top of that is the high voltage igniter that ionizes the xenon gas in the lamp. All of the problems I have ever had with self contained ORC's are either semiconductor or capacitor related, or both. Mark  |  IP: Logged Steve McAndrew Film Handler Posts: 95 From: North Yorkshire, UK Registered: May 2015 posted 09-04-2017 04:40 PM                     I'll let you know how I get on. If I choose to change the large capacitors would I get away with using one with a higher voltage rating, the 25000uf 40V ones seem quite rare.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 09-04-2017 05:30 PM                     Higher voltage rating is fine as long as it physically fits in.  |  IP: Logged Steve McAndrew Film Handler Posts: 95 From: North Yorkshire, UK Registered: May 2015 posted 09-06-2017 04:24 PM                     Well here is the first problem! Luckily there are plenty of them on Ebay!  |  IP: Logged Jim Cassedy Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1661 From: San Francisco, CA Registered: Dec 2006 posted 09-07-2017 06:23 PM                     quote: Well here is the first problem! Luckily there are plenty of them on Ebay! Be careful buying corroded caps on e-bay- - sometimes they'll actually send you good ones.  |  IP: Logged

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