my profile | my password | search | faq & rules | forum home

» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Advice on FP30E sought

Author Topic: Advice on FP30E sought Fredrik Sandstrom Film Handler Posts: 63 From: Turku, Varsinais-Suomi, FINLAND Registered: Mar 2014 posted 10-05-2015 05:50 AM                     I may have the opportunity to acquire a pair of FP30E projectors and need advice on a few points I do not immediately find answers to in the user manual. These machines have the larger lamphouse, for bulbs up to 7000W, which is way more than I need. Can any smaller bulb be used in these? If not, what is the smallest? I don't really want to install water cooling. The manual mentions this as an option but is not clear on when exactly it is needed. Is lamp wattage the only deciding factor, and if so, what is the largest one that can be used safely without water cooling?  |  IP: Logged Dave Macaulay Film God Posts: 2321 From: Toronto, Canada Registered: Apr 2001 posted 10-05-2015 07:07 AM                     You can use any size xenon lamp, although adapters will probably need to be made for them and a smaller rectifier will be required. Kinoton had lamp adapters for mid power lamps but not for really small ones, it was not expected that anyone would pay $$$ for a 7kW water cooled projector and stick a 1kW lamp into it. Light efficiency will be less than if using a small lamphouse, the big fella loses a bit to accommodate the large lamp envelope - light that should be collected goes through the mirror's big centre hole. If you don't have a 7kW lamp to measure you can get the physical dimensions from Osram's website (or Ushio's etc) if you know the lamp model previously used. You want the new small lamp's arc located at the same place in the reflector as the 7kW lamp has its: the Z adjustment has fairly long travel so you don't have to be exact to a mm. A 7kW lamp beams an astounding amount of heat at the gate - wood catches fire immediately if put in the beam. There is a filter glass in the LH but lots of IR still gets through. Without water cooling or a deafening blower, the gate would get hot enough to melt film quickly... maybe even melt itself. The water cooled gate assembly doesn't have cooling fins so, without water, it is not equivalent to an air cooled one. Air cooled is usually OK to ~4kW, but for a dry water cooled gate I would try 2kW max and measure the gate temperature - after running with light for 30 minutes or so - and see if it's safe.  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 10-05-2015 07:54 AM                     The large lamphouse can run down to 2KW using "HS" style lamps. So any lamp that fits the 2KW HS size could be used (no, the 1600HS is NOT of the same lamp size despite the HS suffix). As for water cooling. That was an option that would have been ordered with the projector, regardless of lamphouse. Kinoton's recommendation was for 4KW and up to use an air cooled water system (heat exchanger). We generally used them on 3KW systems because we wanted the gate area to stay as cool as possible and if 16mm was involved, we used water chillers instead of just heat exchangers. The other key is the heat filter in the lamphouse...we always used heat filters regardless of lamphouse size...again, the goal is to keep the heat off of the film. In any event, I'd plan on having 2KW of light. Depending on the vintage (pre 2007 or after) and if it is a 24/25fps machine versus a 10-30fps machine, your shutter efficiency could also affect light output (different shutter blades depending on how configured). But here is a thought...see if Kinoton Digital Solutions can supply you with a "3-wing" shutter kit. It isn't really 3-wings but a firmware change that spins the shutter at 150% to simulate it. The "3-wing" shutter will knock the light down an essentially eliminate the flicker. If your machine DOES have water cooling, you sort of should water cool it or the water cells will act light heat convectors and put heat on the gate (nothing to remove the heat)...again, check with KDS to see if you can get some conventional heat shields to run sans water.  |  IP: Logged Fredrik Sandstrom Film Handler Posts: 63 From: Turku, Varsinais-Suomi, FINLAND Registered: Mar 2014 posted 10-06-2015 12:17 AM                     Many thanks for this valuable information!  |  IP: Logged

All times are Central (GMT -6:00)

Printer-friendly view of this topic

Hop To: Select a Forum: Category: Operations -------------------- Digital Cinema Forum Film Handlers' Forum Large Format Forum Ground Level Feature Info, Trailer Attachments & REAL Credit Offsets Category: Community -------------------- Film-Yak Film Handlers' Movie Reviews The Afterlife Bob Maar's Joke-A-Thon Category: Classified -------------------- Equipment and Supplies Wanted/For Sale Help Wanted/Seeking Employment Category: System -------------------- Software Beta Testing Forum

The Film-Tech Forums are designed for various members related to the cinema industry to express their opinions, viewpoints and testimonials on various products, services and events based upon speculation, personal knowledge and factual information through use, therefore all views represented here allow no liability upon the publishers of this web site and the owners of said views assume no liability for any ill will resulting from these postings. The posts made here are for educational as well as entertainment purposes and as such anyone viewing this portion of the website must accept these views as statements of the author of that opinion and agrees to release the authors from any and all liability.