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Author Topic: Orc 1000 questions
Erik Lallucci
Film Handler

Posts: 31
From: Webster, NY / USA
Registered: Feb 2013


 - posted 06-01-2015 05:52 PM      Profile for Erik Lallucci   Email Erik Lallucci   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I'll be picking up an ORC 1000 lamp house soon and have a couple of questions about it. As I understand from reading other posts, it is rated for a 700w bulb. I have a new 750 that I would probably install if that would work?

Also. I am reading it doesn't have a switch to keep the fan running after the lamp is turned off? That seems like a really poor design if that is the case. I always run the fan for at least ten minutes on any xenon to prolong its life.

Has anyone created a three way switch. Off , fan , lamp? Or separate switches on the unit?

Any advice on these units is well appreciated.

Thanks. Erik

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Steve Kraus
Film God

Posts: 4094
From: Chicago, IL, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 06-01-2015 07:26 PM      Profile for Steve Kraus     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
If it's physically the same bulb as the 700 it should be fine.

The OSRAM version of the 700 would be XBO700W/HS-OFR. There is a screw end plus a couple of points sticking out where one can use the slots in the rigid plastic safety shield to screw it in without putting any stress on the bulb itself. (Not sure if that is standard on all brands.)

When I worked at a post production center with several screening rooms we had a number of these lamphouses but they were buying the 1000W version of the bulb but as this lamphouse would trip out over 40A, the bulbs would develop arc waver (seen as flicker on screen) later in life and had to be changed prematurely. Switching to 700's cured that. I don't think 750 is that much of a difference to be a problem. In our case, when we changed to different lamphouses in our larger room, we had a ready supply of half-used 1K bulbs which no longer wavered once sufficient current could be applied.

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Erik Lallucci
Film Handler

Posts: 31
From: Webster, NY / USA
Registered: Feb 2013


 - posted 06-01-2015 07:37 PM      Profile for Erik Lallucci   Email Erik Lallucci   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks Steve. I appreciate the info.

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 06-01-2015 09:32 PM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The fan is 120 volts. Cut it loose and wire it across the incoming line so that it will always be on.

ORC had a semi-fraudulent labelling system: Model 1000 ran 700 watts; Model 1600 ran 1000 watts, Model 2000 ran 1600 watts; Model 2500 ran 2000 watts; Model 3000 ran 2500 watts; Model 4000 ran 3000 watts; Model 6000 ran 4000 watts. Easy to snow a non technical owner who wanted a big lamp for cheap money.

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John Eickhof
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 588
From: Wendell, ID USA
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 06-01-2015 09:54 PM      Profile for John Eickhof   Author's Homepage   Email John Eickhof   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
depending on where it lived there is a good possibility that the factory mod was made to it providing a separate fan switch. I applied the mod to dozens of them in the 1970s. Louis is correct, as long as the lamp is a 700 or 750 W/HS type it should fit. You can also use an HS=C with anode cable too just remove the existing anode lead. make sure the cable is clear of any metal or it will arc out when the igniter is energized.

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Erik Lallucci
Film Handler

Posts: 31
From: Webster, NY / USA
Registered: Feb 2013


 - posted 06-02-2015 05:57 AM      Profile for Erik Lallucci   Email Erik Lallucci   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Always helpful information here, thanks guys!

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Mitchell Dvoskin
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1869
From: West Milford, NJ, USA
Registered: Jan 2001


 - posted 06-02-2015 09:10 AM      Profile for Mitchell Dvoskin   Email Mitchell Dvoskin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
> I am reading it doesn't have a switch to keep the fan running after the lamp is turned off?

I modified a few of these over the years so the fan stayed on as John Eickhof suggests. I also drilled through the back to add a toggle switch to turn off the fan.

The easier method is when you turn off the lamp, pop the fuse holder cover on the back which will disable the igniter and then turn it back on to restart the fan.

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Sean Weitzel
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 619
From: Vacaville, CA (1790 miles west of Rockwall)
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 06-02-2015 12:14 PM      Profile for Sean Weitzel   Email Sean Weitzel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
If the control boards inside haven't been recently re-capped you might want to consider doing that as the intense heat tends to cook the boards over time. Mine wasn't reliably igniting and recapping the control board cured it.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 06-03-2015 02:48 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What Sean said. And installing 85 amp stud mount diodes also makes them totally reliable. The originals were only like 35 amp. Do the blocking diode too.

Mark

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John Eickhof
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 588
From: Wendell, ID USA
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 06-03-2015 07:25 PM      Profile for John Eickhof   Author's Homepage   Email John Eickhof   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
If the SCR board has a single SCR on it it needs to be replaced with the later board with two SCRs and if you want more than 40 amps you will need to replace the press in SCRS with higher capacity types. (Originals were only 35 amp rating) Good luck finding them! All lamp current runs through the SCRs and the #10 lead wires so be careful!

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Paul Gordon
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 580
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Aug 2005


 - posted 06-04-2015 05:46 AM      Profile for Paul Gordon   Author's Homepage   Email Paul Gordon   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I had to get mine recapped this year as the bulb would not strike. I do have an extra switch to turn the bulb off but leave the fans on, see picture.

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Steve Kraus
Film God

Posts: 4094
From: Chicago, IL, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 06-05-2015 02:34 AM      Profile for Steve Kraus     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Weren't there at least two version of that board, with either a triac or dual SCRs?

I don't know that higher rated SCRs (or triac) is going to get you over 40A lamp current. Are you sure about that? They are on the primary side so if they are rated at 35A, that's plenty. Remember the whole thing will run on a 20A outlet.

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 06-05-2015 07:06 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Come on people...you have a long way to go before you get up to all 1000 questions about ORC that this thread boasted!

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Erik Lallucci
Film Handler

Posts: 31
From: Webster, NY / USA
Registered: Feb 2013


 - posted 06-05-2015 08:18 PM      Profile for Erik Lallucci   Email Erik Lallucci   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Again, thank you all for the info on this. I just picked up the lamphouse and I see that it was installed with a 1000w ORCON xenon that looks way past it life. I am just concerned I may have the wrong 750 watt bulb? I have a spare USHIO uxl 800y 750w on hand.

Thanks

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Dave Macaulay
Film God

Posts: 2321
From: Toronto, Canada
Registered: Apr 2001


 - posted 06-09-2015 08:23 PM      Profile for Dave Macaulay   Email Dave Macaulay   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, that is the wrong lamp. It doubt that it will fit. Even if the thread is the same (unlikely) and you can figure some way to tighten it (the original lamp case is a plastic tube that engages those pins and is used as a wrench), in the image it looks like the distance from cathode base to arc gap looks different. The cable is no problem if it reaches to what the ORC cable clamp attaches to.

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