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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Particle transfer roller effectiveness (Page 1)

 
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Author Topic: Particle transfer roller effectiveness
Adam Ladds
Film Handler

Posts: 7
From: South Kensington, London, UK
Registered: Feb 2012


 - posted 11-04-2012 09:55 AM      Profile for Adam Ladds   Author's Homepage   Email Adam Ladds   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi all.

We run an entirely second-run cinema in the heart of London, UK. This obviously means we get prints which have been mis-handled, poorly broken down etc.

We sometimes notice that some of the dirt and detritus on the film is things like bits of chinagraph pencil, the odd splicing tape "square" etc. Would it be worth investing in a set of particle transfer rollers to clean up our film or aren't they particularly effective at that? (I understand that it won't do anything for the occasional scratched print we encounter.)

Thanks!

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Jake Spell
Master Film Handler

Posts: 294
From: Johns Island SC
Registered: May 2009


 - posted 11-04-2012 10:53 AM      Profile for Jake Spell   Email Jake Spell   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Theres a review here on just how bad PTR rollers suck. Iv had great luck with film gaurd cleaning, lubricating and repairing minor scratches.

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Christian Appelt
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 505
From: Frankfurt, Germany
Registered: Dec 2001


 - posted 11-04-2012 11:27 AM      Profile for Christian Appelt   Email Christian Appelt   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
A Kelmar-type cleaner with FilmGuard will help enormously. You also could get a Kinoton/Retheto wet cleaner, it can be used with any suitable film cleaner or simple isopropane alcohol.

The unit mounts on the projector or between platter and projector. Don't know whether Kinoton still sells it, but Sondor has a used one on their sales list for 50 swiss francs (about 34 GBP).

Sondor.ch

I use the Kinoton/Retheto cleaner with microfibre plush which is soft enough to take up small particles. Very little cleaning fluid is needed because of the special construction.

If you run the same prints often, go with the Kelmar/FilmGuard solution. If you have to show different prints once or twice only, I'd recommend the Kinoton cleaner because FG needs one or two runs to work best.

PTRs won't help in projection because there is more dirt on a used 35mm print than they can take, the place for PTRs is in printing, scanning and telecine operation to remove the last dust particles which may have escaped the previous negative cleaning.

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 11-04-2012 01:34 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
We use PTRs on our 70mm at the TREC center.
In this case, they are needed to keep the film clean BUT the film is pretty clean to start. If the film was dirty when we got it, the PTRs would be swamped with dust and dirt. They would stop working part way through the film.

PTRs are for maintaining prints that are already in good condition but don't work on film that is dirty or damaged.

As others have said, a Kelmar (or other make) of film cleaner combined with FilmGuard is the right tool for this job.

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Bajsic Bojan
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 190
From: Ljubljana, Si, Eu
Registered: Aug 2008


 - posted 11-04-2012 02:32 PM      Profile for Bajsic Bojan   Email Bajsic Bojan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
for 35mm use i only found it "convenient" in situations when you have:
- changeover booth
and
- 4 sets of rollers
and
- you clean/rinse them every reel
and
- a decent enough projectionist to do the above.

Otherwise they do more harm than good.

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Mark Hajducki
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 500
From: Edinburgh, UK
Registered: May 2003


 - posted 11-04-2012 03:24 PM      Profile for Mark Hajducki   Email Mark Hajducki   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
PTRs quickly become saturated and then just move the dirt about. I found that using PTRs (with a long play system) resulted in worse prints than using nothing.

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 11-04-2012 04:48 PM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Pretend you have:

1. 6 cats, longhair

2. 1 used lint roller.

Hopeless, right?

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 11-04-2012 06:21 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
PTR = transfers particles from the front of the roll to the rear of the roll.

Kelmars units are tons better.

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Cameron Glendinning
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 845
From: West Ryde, Sydney, NSW Australia
Registered: Dec 2005


 - posted 11-04-2012 06:23 PM      Profile for Cameron Glendinning   Email Cameron Glendinning   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Ive used PTR's and I have used Film Guard, Film Guard is much better for use in rep cinemas as it can fill in light base scratches and also improves the picture overall including colour. We used it on a beat up 60's print of "Thunderbirds Are Go" many years ago and after a couple of runs it was looking near new. Brad Miller's invention is brilliant!

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Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99


 - posted 11-04-2012 09:08 PM      Profile for Joe Redifer   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Redifer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Louis Bornwasser
Pretend you have:

1. 6 cats, longhair

2. 1 used lint roller.

Hopeless, right?

That really says it all. I wish I had thought of this when I wrote that review a billion years ago.

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John Wilson
Film God

Posts: 5438
From: Sydney, Australia.
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 11-05-2012 05:51 AM      Profile for John Wilson   Email John Wilson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Lol @ Louis. Brilliant! [thumbsup]

Save your money if you intend to buy PTR's. [puke]

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Adam Ladds
Film Handler

Posts: 7
From: South Kensington, London, UK
Registered: Feb 2012


 - posted 11-05-2012 06:04 AM      Profile for Adam Ladds   Author's Homepage   Email Adam Ladds   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks for the insight! We usually run films for a couple of showings at most (or in the case of special events, just once in addition to previewing) so I'll have a look at a Kinoton/Retheto wet cleaner; especially since it's got a lower upfront cost than many of the other options!

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John Wilson
Film God

Posts: 5438
From: Sydney, Australia.
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 11-05-2012 06:24 AM      Profile for John Wilson   Email John Wilson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Add Filmguard and all your worries are over.

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Frank Angel
Film God

Posts: 5305
From: Brooklyn NY USA
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 11-05-2012 09:47 AM      Profile for Frank Angel   Author's Homepage   Email Frank Angel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Particle Transfer Rollers only do what the name says. It transfers particles. It won't take away the real dirt that is grease or adhesive based, i.e., most of what you see on the screen marring the picture. PTRs are useless against things like finger prints, adhesive residue or grease pencil marks. For that you need a solvent. So they only remove particles that are only adhering to the print by static electricity; if the particles are held there by their own adhesive properties of chemical composition, like finger prints or china pencil or white-out, they will just laugh at being tickled by a passing PTR roller.

The PTR is also true to its "transferring" function;" it almost always transfers the particles to some other part of the print once the roller gets dirty which, if you are lucky won't be before the end of the first reel.

But for all the faults of the PTR, it's concept was laudable and it does work if you were running 2000ft reels of from-the-lab new prints in changeover and have the time and inclination to wash the PTRs after every reel or if you had a few dozen of them at the ready that you could swap out after each reel and then wash at the end of the night. That said, any discussion of PTRs does remind me of one of this boards most knowledgeable and generous and kind member/contributors, the late John Film-Done-Right Pytlak, who was instrumental in their invention an availablility -- an early attempt to address the problem of dirty prints which was at the time escalating exponentially in exhibition and to which he called to attention of the whole industry with this effort.

We remember him here fondly; a tip of the hat to John.

 -

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Manny Knowles
"What are these things and WHY are they BLUE???"

Posts: 4247
From: Bloomington, IN, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 11-06-2012 01:35 PM      Profile for Manny Knowles   Email Manny Knowles   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I use them...sometimes.

I don't bother using PTR's on "hopeless" prints -- because I agree with everything that was said about that. (Especially Frank Angel's comments.)

Also, PTR's work best with a dry print. So if you have a print that still has a coating of liquid cleaner (like FilmGuard) on it, you're just going to end up with slippery PTR's if you use them on that print.

However -- IF you are running a clean, dry print -- IF you are projecting via changeovers -- and IF you will clean or swap out the used PTR's after each and every reel -- they can aid in keeping a clean, dry print looking clean -- basically, they will prevent new dust from accumulating on the print.

The "nutshell" version is -- In a repertory situation, most prints won't benefit from PTR's.

While FilmGuard is a fine product, you need to know that certain archives will not permit you to apply ANY liquid cleaner to their prints. So it's important to familiarize yourself with the rules/expectation of each particular lender.

I also don't use PTR's on old, brittle prints, because it's possible to separate the emulsion layer completely from the base. They make "less sticky" (matte) rollers, but I still don't use those on old prints. The benefit is insignificant, compared to the risk.

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