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Author Topic: Strong Optimax Problem
Richard May
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1057
From: Floral Park, NY USA
Registered: Aug 2004


 - posted 09-16-2010 12:17 PM      Profile for Richard May   Email Richard May   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have a Strong Optimax console with a striking problem. I havent been to the theater yet but here is what it does. The bulb sounds like it's trying to light, but there is no arc through the bulb. They opened up the lamphouse and found that it's jumping the gap in the spark gap in the ignitor but not through the bulb. There is no arcing anywhere in the lamphouse. Sounds to me like the ignitor might be shot.

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 09-16-2010 12:46 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
If you got spark, you got a good igniter. Sounds like either a safety interlock or failsafe has opened to prevent the rectifier to be turned on, or you got a retifier that has seen better days.

Check no-load voltage first and if none, it might be a goner.

Or, put another bulb in - seen that happen a time or two where the cable that attaches from anode connection cap to the anode rod, fry apart for no reason.

Good luck-Monte

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Richard May
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1057
From: Floral Park, NY USA
Registered: Aug 2004


 - posted 09-16-2010 01:30 PM      Profile for Richard May   Email Richard May   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
New bulb was put in. Same result. I'm not so sure it's the rectifier. No load volts are off the chart. The bulb will light every once in a while after buzzing for about 8 seconds or so. Could it be an open diode?

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Robert D Hall
Film Handler

Posts: 65
From: Abingdon V.A USA
Registered: Mar 2010


 - posted 09-16-2010 05:53 PM      Profile for Robert D Hall   Author's Homepage   Email Robert D Hall   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have had the same problem ten or more times. Over the last 13 years i have worked with strong lamphouse's. And every time it was the ignitor. I cant remember what part of the ignitor had gone bad. But strong did repair them for me. One thing i do remember in most of the case's the ignitor would hold a charge for mutch longer than normal. So you should jump it to ground before you try to remove it.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 09-16-2010 09:33 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
the optimax is the ORC lamphouse
sometimes it is flying off inside the mirror basket on the bypass wire on the lamp

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 09-16-2010 09:46 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Gordon McLeod
sometimes it is flying off inside the mirror basket on the bypass wire on the lamp
I'll second that. Same thing happens on my LP Assoc/Xe-Lamp lamphouse. Just cut off the bypass wire and it works fine.

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 09-17-2010 03:44 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Had the same problem with those CH-20 Christie consoles: Being that bulb would sit back way deep in the reflector, that wire would cause arcing to the edge of the hole in the reflector during ignition. Cut that wire off and things settled down..

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Richard May
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1057
From: Floral Park, NY USA
Registered: Aug 2004


 - posted 09-17-2010 06:42 AM      Profile for Richard May   Email Richard May   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I went last night and they were right. There was a good spark across the spark gap in the igniter but nowhere else. I changed the high voltage block and it works fine now. Thanks again guys.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 09-17-2010 09:15 AM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
the newer blue tesla coils don't seem to last as well as the old black ones

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 09-18-2010 08:06 PM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The blue coils are a long square bar formed into a coil. The 2 small wires are tapped into 2 or 3 turns of the larger coil. There are no other parts.

I have never had one fail, and I cannot understand how one could fail. They would appear to be well capable of over 200 amps.

(I have had the BOX crack. I bought a new box and then epoxied the old coil into it. Looks like new and works perfectly.) Louis

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Richard May
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1057
From: Floral Park, NY USA
Registered: Aug 2004


 - posted 09-19-2010 09:20 AM      Profile for Richard May   Email Richard May   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
It was the blue one. It was not cracked or anything, but it definitely was the problem.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 09-19-2010 09:27 AM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
On the blues one i have had a lotof the primary side of the coil failing

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 09-19-2010 10:01 AM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
May be a bad weld where the female terminal is connected to the bar. Louis

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