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Author Topic: 16mm on FP38E Scott Norwood Film God Posts: 8146 From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas) Registered: Jun 99 posted 05-14-2010 12:27 PM                        Has anyone tried to run a 16mm workprint with single-sided tape splices on a Kinoton FP38E? Was this successful (i.e. no film breaks or damage)? My limited experience with running 16mm on these has been quite positive, but the single-side-splice issue makes me nervous. Should it?  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 05-14-2010 01:00 PM                     Scott, I run FP38D's and have found that as long as the perfs are clear (punched out) and you run the minimum skate tension for a steady picture that they handle all kinds of splices safely. I would check EVERY splice carefully before running a workprint, as it is usually pretty beat up anyways in some cases. I think the E model would also stop immediately in the event of lost loops since it is electronically driven...I could be wrong. Steve Guttag could tell you more.  |  IP: Logged Scott Norwood Film God Posts: 8146 From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas) Registered: Jun 99 posted 05-14-2010 10:29 PM                        Thanks. It ran fine tonight. I wouldn't really recommend doing this, but I didn't really have any issues with base-side-only splices. I do recommend a slightly smaller-than-normal upper loop when doing this, however.  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 05-17-2010 12:00 AM                     You're welcome. And good call on the upper loop size too...it can make a difference as to the splice passing cleanly or hinging/folding as it tries to enter the skate.  |  IP: Logged

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