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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Lamp strikes, house lights go out (Page 1)

 
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Author Topic: Lamp strikes, house lights go out
Thomas Pitt
Master Film Handler

Posts: 266
From: Leeds, West Yorkshire, UK
Registered: May 2007


 - posted 02-25-2010 07:41 AM      Profile for Thomas Pitt   Email Thomas Pitt   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
At my nearest theater, I've noticed that whenever the lamphouse strikes, the auditorium lighting for that screen briefly dims or even turns off - only to come on again when the bulb is working. This can also happen (to a lesser extent) if the lamphouse for the adjacent auditorium strikes.

I'm assuming this has something to do with the power surge caused by the lamphouse turning on - but is this effect 'normal' for a multiplex? Is there anything that can be done to stop or minimize the effect? In this theater in particular, all the lighting comes from sconces on the walls, and to plunge the audience into total darkness for a second or two doesn't seem very professional...

Incidentally, they used to dim the house lights a little bit when the advert reel started, then turn the lights off at the start of the trailers. Now, the lights remain at full brightness until the start of the trailers, at which point they dim and turn off.

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 02-25-2010 10:00 AM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Certainly not normal. It sounds like the rf from the igniter is getting into the dimmer input somehow. Might try capacitors on the input to the igniter and supression on the dimmer input.

. . . .of course, I could just blame it on "slow" electricity. (50Hz). Louis

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Jim Cassedy
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1661
From: San Francisco, CA
Registered: Dec 2006


 - posted 02-25-2010 10:10 AM      Profile for Jim Cassedy   Email Jim Cassedy   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I've had two auditoriums where a slight short inside the
lamphouse during ignition was feeding back to the dimmers
through ground (I guess) and causing an effect similar to
what you describe. In my case, one the high-voltage wires
was too close to another metal part inside the lamphouse
and when the igniter fired, a small spark was jumping from
the high-voltage wire to ground. There wasn't enough leakage
to affect bulb ignition, but it did cause the auditorium
lights to momentarily dim. I also noticed it caused the
platters in one of the booths to "jump" slightly. I could
see the film tension changing during ignition.

Once I found out what was going on, it was simply a matter
of re-positioning the high-voltage wire away from other parts
in the lamphouse and the problem was solved.

Mabye you should check & see if you have a similar situation.

Good Luck!

>One more thing- - I located the short by turning off all the
booth lights and striking the lamp with the lamphouse door
open, but with the rectifier turned off, so that the bulb
would not actually ignite. The "leakage" spark was easy to
spot in the dark. You'll probably have to hold down or
bypass the safety switch on the lamphouse door if you try this.

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Paul Mayer
Oh get out of it Melvin, before it pulls you under!

Posts: 3836
From: Albuquerque, NM
Registered: Feb 2000


 - posted 02-25-2010 12:25 PM      Profile for Paul Mayer   Author's Homepage   Email Paul Mayer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Used to see an effect like that at an art house in the Melrose district in L.A. It was a changeover house, and every time a motor was started for a changeover, the sconce lights in the house would dim for a second or so.

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Rick Raskin
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1100
From: Manassas Virginia
Registered: Jan 2003


 - posted 02-25-2010 01:11 PM      Profile for Rick Raskin   Email Rick Raskin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Just a thought: It sounds like the lamp strike might be momentarily loading down the power circuit and causing the dimmers to drop out. I don't know how the electrical codes in the UK would address this, but feeding the dimmers through a 1:1 transformer might serve to overcome the problem. And then that slow electricity might just can't be fixed. [Wink]

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-25-2010 01:14 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I would suspect RF is causing the dimmer to misfire
1st disconnect the automation control leads to the dimmer and see if it still happens
If it does then I would get some better supression on the lamphouse and probably add some bypass caps and gmov's to the input of the dimmer
what make of dimmer is it

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Geena Phillips
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 198
From: Norcross, GA / USA
Registered: Apr 2006


 - posted 02-26-2010 04:21 PM      Profile for Geena Phillips   Author's Homepage   Email Geena Phillips   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
We had a problem like this at one of our locations. The lamphouses all had AC igniters, and every time they'd strike, it would send out a pulse that scrambled the programming on the lighting automation. The only thing that ultimately solved it was replacing the igniters with DC ones.

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Thomas Pitt
Master Film Handler

Posts: 266
From: Leeds, West Yorkshire, UK
Registered: May 2007


 - posted 02-26-2010 05:54 PM      Profile for Thomas Pitt   Email Thomas Pitt   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
It certainly looks to me like it's a direct result of a power surge from the igniter. On certain occasions, there's a little buzz/crackle from the stage speakers at the moment the lights go out.

I doubt it's the dimmer, as the lights pop off/dim and then jump back on straight away, rather than fading up slowly like they do when the film ends. It also happens in every single auditorium when the relevant lamphouse strikes (not just in one), so a design flaw may be to blame...

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Caleb Johnstone-Cowan
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 593
From: London, UK
Registered: Mar 2006


 - posted 02-26-2010 08:09 PM      Profile for Caleb Johnstone-Cowan   Email Caleb Johnstone-Cowan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Thomas Pitt
Incidentally, they used to dim the house lights a little bit when the advert reel started, then turn the lights off at the start of the trailers. Now, the lights remain at full brightness until the start of the trailers, at which point they dim and turn off.
It makes it easier to seat a screen that way when it's busy and my guess is you go to a vue and that's their company standard anyway. What you describe with the sconce lighting didn't happen at the vue I worked for or the ones I visited so my guess is it's a site problem.

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Eric Robinson
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 538
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Registered: Jan 2005


 - posted 03-16-2010 01:34 AM      Profile for Eric Robinson   Email Eric Robinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You could use a scope to monitor the AC waveform supplying the dimmer. Make sure to set the time scale to "slow power" [Wink]

You would most likely see some spiking during the ignition phase if this is where the problem is.

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David E. Nedrow
Master Film Handler

Posts: 368
From: Columbus, OH, USA
Registered: Oct 2008


 - posted 03-16-2010 12:05 PM      Profile for David E. Nedrow   Author's Homepage   Email David E. Nedrow   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Maybe they have old Xetrol IVs sharing a ground. The manual for those talks about flickering, instability, and flashing. They have a section on it that calls for installing a "suppression network field". I only know this because I picked up two Xetrols recently, hoping to replace a non-functioning dimmer. Each of the Xetrols will control a different set of lights in the same auditorium. That, and I love to browse manuals. [Wink]

-David

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 03-16-2010 08:42 PM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The problem is logically in the one lamphouse, since only it affects all dimmers.

Look around the igniter and swap capacitors that are connected to the mains power input and the one DC wire that has a capacitor on it (not the one connected to the bulb.) The other lamphouses shoudl be the same. If necessary, swap igniters. Swapping is free. Then you can purchase what is needed. Louis

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Tony Bandiera Jr
Film God

Posts: 3067
From: Moreland Idaho
Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 03-17-2010 02:30 PM      Profile for Tony Bandiera Jr   Email Tony Bandiera Jr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
You could use a scope to monitor the AC waveform supplying the dimmer. Make sure to set the time scale to "slow power" [Wink]

Eric, I cringe every time I see someone suggest using a scope on AC power.

It is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS if you aren't 100% sure of how to do it safely!! Your scope inputs MUST NOT have ANY reference to ground, and you MUST isolate yourself and the scope to avoid getting a severe shock.

If Thomas is not an experienced technician who knows every precaution necessary to do that safely my advice is DON'T TRY IT!!


And I will not give out the procedure online as I will not be liable for someone getting hurt.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 03-17-2010 03:13 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
There is no issue with the scope probes being ground referenced since the measurements for noise are in refference to ground
the normal calibration procedure of most dimmer cards is a dual scope one on the firing drive the other on the output
Again it would be nice to know what dimmers are involved

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Tony Bandiera Jr
Film God

Posts: 3067
From: Moreland Idaho
Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 03-17-2010 08:57 PM      Profile for Tony Bandiera Jr   Email Tony Bandiera Jr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Gordon, I don't know if scopes or electricity behaves differently up there, but past experience and a few mishaps has shown me that your scope MUST be isolated from the AC power source's neutral, ground and hot or you risk getting bit or blowing up the scope's input circuitry.

Using a battery powered scope is generally safe and the preferred method, or else connecting an AC powered scope with an isolation transformer.

Looking at my post again I can see where the confusion arises, I should have said "the AC power source" instead of the "ground". And also should be "scope" not "scope inputs" as duh, you'd be using the inputs to look at the power..

I shouldn't post before eating dinner.. [Big Grin]

Forum would not permit me to edit that....

But the signal you're looking at, (unless you're looking for noise on the ground) should be referenced to neutral (Or the other phase of the AC line, in which case a fully isolated scope setup is mandatory.)

For someone of your experience it would be safe to do, but it is not something that anyone should attempt.

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