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Author Topic: Need help withSuper Lume-X lamphouse Paul Looker Film Handler Posts: 83 From: Pittsburgh, PA/United States Registered: Sep 2009 posted 12-21-2009 06:34 PM                     The above photos will show you what I'm dealing with. That's a type 39000-01 and Hertz is 30 as those stamped in numbers can be hard to read. This isn't the first time this has happened. It's going to be going on the 4th time we've had our tech come in to work on this lamp house and I'm beginning to suspect that he really doesn't know what he's doing that we continue to have issues with it. Not that I really know how to fix it but thats why i'm here. What I would like to know is what is that thing that melted called? Would anyone know the part number for it? How do I replace it? And finally, any ideas why this might have happened? Any help that anyone could give me would be greatly appreciated. All I want for Christmas is to not have a house down.  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 12-21-2009 07:01 PM                        Caused by loose connection on rear of bulb. Is that a 2000 watt bulb? XBO-2000w/h? Part number varies by bulb type. Sorry you have tgrouble, BUT that is a very good lamphouse. Louiz  |  IP: Logged Richard Hamilton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1341 From: Evansville, Indiana Registered: Jan 2000 posted 12-21-2009 07:05 PM                     my guess is a loose connection. Change the cable, clamp and bulb adaptor when you replace the collet. Make damn sure the connections are TIGHT.  |  IP: Logged Paul Looker Film Handler Posts: 83 From: Pittsburgh, PA/United States Registered: Sep 2009 posted 12-21-2009 07:10 PM                     It is a 2000W/H. Did you know the part number for that one? Basically this is for no other reason than the hex screw wasn't tight enough? Our tech put this bulb in the last time he was here fixing an issue with the power supply that fried the previous one. It seems like its simple to replace. The old one just slid out. Slide in the new one and attach it to the lead and we're done? Is there anything else to take into consideration before doing the job? Richard, would you have part numbers for any of those items outside of the collet?  |  IP: Logged Richard May Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1057 From: Floral Park, NY USA Registered: Aug 2004 posted 12-21-2009 07:27 PM                     I doubt there was anything wrong with your power supply in the first place. Like Richard said, change the cable also. I have had this happen before also. One time I had to change it twice because the cable was bad and it kept overheating.  |  IP: Logged Richard Hamilton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1341 From: Evansville, Indiana Registered: Jan 2000 posted 12-21-2009 07:42 PM                     Paul, no, I dont know the part numbers. Your dealer can give them to you, or you can call Strong and their sales dept should give you the part numbers. Or, I think there is a manual here on film-tech Sorry  |  IP: Logged Paul Looker Film Handler Posts: 83 From: Pittsburgh, PA/United States Registered: Sep 2009 posted 12-21-2009 07:52 PM                     Alright, thank you everyone for all your help, but just one more question if it isn't too much bother. I've got the part numbers from the manual on the site here, really should have looked there straight away, but it still seems a little unclear about one thing. On the current burned up collet there is a brass colored ring with another black rubber/plastic kind of ring around it. They seem to be the support for the collet while it is in the focus screw. That black rubber/plastic ring will come off of the brass ring and go back on easily enough, but that brass ring will NOT come off the collet. Should it? Is there some particular way to get it to come off? If not will the new collet come with one or will I have to order it seperately. In which case would anybody at least know what its called so I can try and dig up the number from the manual or talk to my supplier about it?  |  IP: Logged Richard Hamilton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1341 From: Evansville, Indiana Registered: Jan 2000 posted 12-21-2009 07:58 PM                     dont know the part #, but I'm assuming your talking about the snap ring that keeps the collet in place. I always bought those from the local hardware store when I needed them.  |  IP: Logged John Hawkinson Film God Posts: 2273 From: Cambridge, MA, USA Registered: Feb 2002 posted 12-21-2009 08:49 PM                     BTW, I think that says 50 Hz and not 30 Hz. --jhawk  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 12-22-2009 12:49 AM                     ALSO, in addition to good tight connections...make sure your blowers and exhaust are working properly...lack of air flow will also cause it to overheat. Steve  |  IP: Logged Tim Reed Better Projection Pays Posts: 5246 From: Northampton, PA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 12-22-2009 01:40 AM                       The #1 reason this happens is most people are afraid they'll break the bulb if they tighten it too tight. When you turn the Allen wrench on this connection, it can put lateral pressure against the envelope (between the cathode connector and anode support yoke). This is what scares people - and rightfully so. The trick I use is to grasp the bulb by the cathode connection in one hand and slightly lift the anode off its support - so that it's free in the air - and then run down the cathode screw with your other hand as tight as it will go. As long as you're holding the bulb off the anode support in this manner, it absolutely cannot have any force applied to its length. Since the anode connection is via the bulb cable, there's no problem getting it tight. It's funny to get calls when someone changes a bulb that I installed. They always ask how I got it so tight. Btw, yes, Paul. That would be the retaining ring for the insulator. Be careful, they're easy to lose.  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 12-22-2009 12:02 PM                     Tim uses the same tightening procedure I do It must be very tight or you will have trouble To remove the cathode support you will need a snap ring removal tool to remove the snap ring otherwise it is a simple procedure  |  IP: Logged Richard Hamilton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1341 From: Evansville, Indiana Registered: Jan 2000 posted 12-22-2009 03:06 PM                     quote: Paul Looker This isn't the first time this has happened. It's going to be going on the 4th time we've had our tech come in to work on this lamp house and I'm beginning to suspect that he really doesn't know what he's doing that we continue to have issues with it. show him this thread When I first started doing tech work, I got called in 1 night because of a "dim" picture. When I got in the booth, I could smell the electrical "burn". The meters on the lamphouse were way low. After sniffing around, I could tell the smell was from the breaker panel. I took the front of the panel off and one of the screws on the 3 phase breaker for that lamphouse was glowing. There were a couple of people who stayed for the movie, even though you couldn't see shit, so I tried to tighten the screw. It immediataly snapped off and we lost the show. I spent the next day checking every breaker at 5 different locations. About 25% I could give them a good half turn or so.  |  IP: Logged Randy Bowden Expert Film Handler Posts: 146 From: Portland, OR, USA Registered: Aug 2000 posted 12-24-2009 03:42 AM                     Wow, that's a bad one! Follow the tightening proceedure that Tim explains here and that problem will be a thing of the past.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 12-24-2009 03:51 AM                     I could never get over the fan mounted on the side of the lamphouse - from the Super Lume-X, all the way up to the STRONG 80.. ..just seem odd why being mounted on the side like that. Is it blowing on the bulb seals, or just blowing ambient air around to aid in seal cooling..?  |  IP: Logged

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