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Author Topic: Norelco FP20 - Framing Coupler? Steven Heldt Film Handler Posts: 4 From: Lansing, MI USA Registered: Sep 2008 posted 10-19-2009 09:22 PM                     Hello, I have a Norelco FP20 that I am trying to fix. It has a small vertical jump to it. The picture also slowly creeps up the screen (the framing knob actually moves when projecting, although very slowly). The framing coupler has been mentioned in other posts as a possible cause for vertical instability. What is involved in replacing the framimg coupler? Is it hard to replace? Thanks for any info.  |  IP: Logged Pete Naples Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1565 From: Dunfermline, Scotland Registered: Feb 2001 posted 10-21-2009 02:32 AM                     Norelco FP20 manual is in the archive here on Film Tech, the procedure is covered in there. Not a tricky job, remember to drain the oil first!  |  IP: Logged Ken McFall Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 615 From: Haringey, London. Registered: Apr 2001 posted 10-21-2009 09:21 AM                     As Pete has already said, its not a difficult job..... once you have done it. It involves draining the oil... Taking off the shutter cover.. Remove the skate runner mounting arm... Slacken off the sproket shaft end bearing... Removing the four screws that hold the gate assembly in place. CAREFULLY easing the whole gate assembly away from the projector. It is important NOT to damage the O ring on the gate assembly. Personally I always replace it with a new one at the same time. Once you have the gate assembly off you should turn the framing handle to slide the framing bush towards you. Take a note of where the white dot on the framing handle was positioned as it lost mesh with the bush, you will need this later as you install the new bush. There will be a small threaded hole on the bush which you should screw in a bolt, see manual for size, to use to finally slide the bush out. IMPORTANT there will be a flat spring sitting in a cut out on the top of the bush don't lose it! While the projector is apart take the time to give it all a good cleaning especially the gate assembly. The Polo mint mounts can be removed and cleaned. The outer polo mint springs can be removed without disasembly but the inner can only be done with the gate assembly removed... so do it now! When ready to install the new bush make sure the framing handle is in the position you noted when it lost mesh as you removed the old bush. Then carefully slide the bush back into the projector. Make sure you have placed the flat spring into the cut out. There will come a point when the bush engages with the framing handle. You can then use the framing handle to pull the bush in further. Do this gently so as not to damage the end of the framing bush when it meets the intermittent shaft. Then useing the motor handle turn the motor back and forth slightly while applying slight pressure with the framing handle until you feel it mesh and slide in further. Then insert the sproket shaft of the gate assembly into the bush applying gentle pressure. Push it in all the way using gentle but firm pressure. As the O ring meets the projector I rock the gate assembly back and forth so the O ring slides in easier. You can always smear some oil on the O ring and opening to help if you like. There should be locating pins on the projector body that ensure the gate assembly is correctly lined up. Check carefully that everything is in place and the projector turns over easily by hand. If there is a tight spot don't be too concerned at this time as it should go when you finally replace all of the screws for the gate assembly. It is very important that you ensure everything is tightened and the gate assembly is flush with the projector casing or you will have tight spots as you turn the projector over by hand. Reset the sproket shaft end bearing as per the manual. Do a final check that everything is ok and that the projector turns over nicely. Set the framing handle to the middle of its travel which should correspond roughly with the white dot on the framing handle. It is often the case that the white dots do not correspond to the middle travel point and if that is the case its up to you to decide if you can live with it and paint out the dot and make a new one or to try the whole proceedure again with the framing handle in a slightly different position! Refill the intermittent with oil, it helps if you have measured how much came out so you know how much should go back in. It can take a while for all of the air to be expelled from the intermittent which is why its useful to know how much should go back in. Replace the skate mounting arm and set as per manual and that should be job done. Keep a close eye on the oil level for the next few days. This may not be 'THE' way to do the job but as I've done quite a few its a method that works and suits me. I've tried to remember everything so with the aid of the manual and the above you should be ok. So, not too difficult but quite involved so make sure you have plenty of time so you are not rushed. Hope this is of some help. Regards.  |  IP: Logged Steven Heldt Film Handler Posts: 4 From: Lansing, MI USA Registered: Sep 2008 posted 10-22-2009 10:17 PM                     Thanks so much, Ken, for the detailed instructions (much better than I could find in the FP20 manual). This will help tremendously, as now I realize the complexity of the job. Right now, I am trying to track down a new bushing. Once I find one, I'll put your instructions to good use. Thanks again!  |  IP: Logged Randy Bowden Expert Film Handler Posts: 146 From: Portland, OR, USA Registered: Aug 2000 posted 10-23-2009 03:49 PM                     Good explanation Ken! I only have one minor thing to add. When re-installing the film gate, coat the o-ring with grease, not oil. The grease will fill in any little gouges that may have formed in the intermittent main frame assy and in general, acts as an added measure of leak prevention.  |  IP: Logged Ken McFall Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 615 From: Haringey, London. Registered: Apr 2001 posted 10-23-2009 04:06 PM                     Thanks for the comments guy's I did say it was my way of doing the job and not 'THE' way so yout comments are appreciated. I am restricted to bed for most of the days so had to rely on memory. Good to see that I'd not forgotten anything.... Let us know how to goes. Regards.  |  IP: Logged Jeff Else Expert Film Handler Posts: 125 From: Detroit, MI, USA Registered: Nov 2006 posted 10-23-2009 10:16 PM                     I have a kinoton FP20 with a slight vertical jump as well, not horrible, and no travel of the framing nob. any simple diagnostic technique to determine that it is indeed the framing coupler at fault?  |  IP: Logged

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