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Author Topic: Shaking Vic 5 Dominic Espinosa Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1172 From: Boulder Creek, CA. Registered: Jan 2004 posted 10-13-2009 07:16 PM                     Hey guys, I've got a Cinemechanica Vic 5 here that shakes like a chihuahua. My casual observation is that the vibration is being caused by the intermittent as the frequency looks like it's in-time with the intermittent. Indeed the entire machine has this rough vibration. The other Vics in this booth don't have it and their image is rock solid. I have a spare intermittent to drop in but I'm not able to get to it right away and I'd like to know what to expect to have to do to repair the one coming out. If this is in fact the case. I'm relatively new to V5's so any pointers on stabilizing this bad-boy would be great. Thanks, guys.  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 10-13-2009 07:18 PM                     Rebuilding the v 5 movment is a shop job that isn't done in the field changing it is simple though  |  IP: Logged Jarret Chessell Master Film Handler Posts: 288 From: London, Ontario, Canada Registered: Jan 2009 posted 10-13-2009 07:34 PM                     Do you mean the picture is shaking, or the projector itself?  |  IP: Logged Sam D. Chavez Film God Posts: 2153 From: Martinez, CA USA Registered: Aug 2003 posted 10-13-2009 07:40 PM                       A shaky V5. What a surprise. I would try a new sprocket first. It might be bad from the start or gotten bent in time.  |  IP: Logged Dominic Espinosa Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1172 From: Boulder Creek, CA. Registered: Jan 2004 posted 10-13-2009 08:56 PM                     Picture is vibrating, the machine itself has a very strong vibration in time with the intermittent. The other machines you can feel a very slight vibration around, say, the lens turret, but on the machine in question it feels like holding onto the handle of a lawn mower. I'm aware the movement is not an in-the-field type of job.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 10-13-2009 09:25 PM                     K, take the belt off of the motor then turn the motor on. Try that to see if you got a motor vibrating on your - issue why of the shakes.. Then, if not, change out the motor belt - you could have a stretched belt.. Then, if not, take the tooth sprockets off and see if you don't have a gob of gunk or grease stuck on the inboard side of the sprockets acting like an extra weight causing the vibration ... and also check the shutter area (you could have a going shutter transmission assembly on you) for something could have caused that to go off-center. Is the INT sprocket clean - no gunk inbetween the teeth? Good luck-Monte  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 10-13-2009 09:40 PM                        V5: most problems involve the intermittent, which influences all else. Louis.  |  IP: Logged Ron Lacheur Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 650 From: British Columbia, Canada Registered: Feb 2002 posted 10-14-2009 12:53 AM                     Dominic, We had an issue with one of our turreted Vic5s were the turret lock was loose ( on the machine side ) and the turret was vibrating and was producing a really poor picture. Credits were almost unreadable. Might want to check that.  |  IP: Logged Demetris Thoupis Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1240 From: Aradippou, Larnaca, Cyprus Registered: Apr 2001 posted 10-14-2009 01:10 AM                     Try taking the intermittent sprocket out and twist it 180 degrees so it rotates the other way. Demetris  |  IP: Logged Ken McFall Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 615 From: Haringey, London. Registered: Apr 2001 posted 10-14-2009 04:48 AM                     Belt tension can also be the cause of rough running and noise. Using a firm bristle brush and cleaner make sure the pulley teeth are clear of all crud and that the tension pulley for the inner belt is also running free. The keeper rollers that run on the flat side of the belt, shutter and intermittent, should also be removed and cleaned. These are often set too close to the belt and pick up a lot of crud on their surface. The distance from the belt for these should be close enought so they don't spin constantly. They are intended to stop the belt from jumping out of mesh rather that to press them firmly down. When finished cleaning use NEW belts and see how things feel after tyat. The other thing to consider is the sproket shaf bearings themselves. Not difficult to replace and not expensive. It's also worth checking the condition of the sproket shafts for play and wear. The above suggestions are quite simple routine maintenance jobs that don't take too long and involve little cost overall and are worth doing regardless of any current problems. The difference to an older projector can be very noticable. If none of these help you are left with the intermittent or shutter gearbox. It's difficult not having seen or heard the projector running and you don't say you have sever picture jump or random picture ghosting. So these items should be looked at once all of the other work has been done so you know you are working with a mechanically sound mech. The intermittent isn't too difficult to swap with the shutter gear box being more involved. If you do have to go this far make sure you set up the shutter with the intermittent and shutter timeing red dots in the right place.... Hope some of this helps. REgards.  |  IP: Logged Pete Naples Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1565 From: Dunfermline, Scotland Registered: Feb 2001 posted 10-14-2009 05:47 AM                     Amen to that Ken! Whenever I take a call from a customer about a Vic 5 running rough, the first thing I suggest they do is change the belts and give all the belt sprockets, idlers etc a good clean. 9 times out of 10 said Vic 5 is then running as sweetly as they ever do.  |  IP: Logged Marco Giustini Film God Posts: 2713 From: Reading, UK Registered: Nov 2007 posted 10-14-2009 08:18 AM                     All good suggestions, but I quote Demetris one. I made a rock steady V5 flipping the intermittent sprocket 180°  |  IP: Logged Randy Stankey Film God Posts: 6539 From: Erie, Pennsylvania Registered: Jun 99 posted 10-14-2009 09:29 AM                     I don't work with Vic 5s but I'm going to second Ken's and Pete's suggestions on grounds of "Do the easy things first." I can't tell you how many times I have spent an hour trying to fix a problem only to find out that it could have been fixed in five minutes if I just checked some simple thing first. It doesn't matter if you're working on projectors or working on your car. The same thing applies. When you hear the sound of galloping hooves, don't assume it's an approaching herd of zebras!  |  IP: Logged Dominic Espinosa Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1172 From: Boulder Creek, CA. Registered: Jan 2004 posted 10-14-2009 10:10 PM                     Thanks guys for all the info. Ken, great write-up as usual! Everything was in good shape in there. More goop and crud than I like to see but it was decent. I ended up changing the intermittent assembly with a rebuilt one we had on-hand (which I discovered looking for a tool while taking one out of an old head recently removed from service!). That steadied it right up. Much less vibration, much less noise, and very solid picture. I am however having a HELL of a time getting the shutter phasing just right. It almost seems like the shutter is too small. It's the normal double blade by the way. I've done timing on these (but not this house) before but never had such a problem.  |  IP: Logged Ken McFall Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 615 From: Haringey, London. Registered: Apr 2001 posted 10-15-2009 02:12 AM                     Good to hear you have a much smoother projector now. There should be no problem with shutter timimg when set-up with the rod dots correctly positiond as per the manual. However there may be a difference in the position of the dot on the 'newer' intermittent. The actual shutter blade does not have full 360 degree adjustment. So if you find you cannot move it in the required direction you will have to take out all of the shutter clamping screws and turn it so you are using the next slots to clamp with. (Hope this makes sense to you). However, I would be surprised if this was in fact the case. The method I use is to slacken off one of the shutter clamping screws and slacken off the other leaving it just tight enough to hold the shutter in place. This helps to make slight adjustments of the timimg without having to apply too much torque to undo the clamp which risks moveing the shutter out of position. Run a loop with some white on black text. I was taught to remember BRAT when timing shutters. Bottom retard >> Top advance. When you have determined where the travel ghost appears firmly lock/hold the belt in place and slacken the clamping screw that was left just holding. Adjust very slightly in the required direction. Then clamp in place slightly with one screw and run the loop again. Once done correctly, with line up dots in place, I make a very clear scratch from the edge of the clamping plate onto the shutter blade for future reference. Hope some of this helps. Regards.  |  IP: Logged

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