Film-Tech Cinema Systems
Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE


  
my profile | my password | search | faq & rules | forum home
  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Simplex XL Upper Pad Roller Assembly (Page 1)

 
This topic comprises 2 pages: 1  2 
 
Author Topic: Simplex XL Upper Pad Roller Assembly
Thomas Moore
Film Handler

Posts: 56
From: Imperial, Mo USA
Registered: Oct 2005


 - posted 08-22-2009 06:28 PM      Profile for Thomas Moore   Author's Homepage   Email Thomas Moore   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Im in a bind here. I have a replacement pad roller assembly I need to put on the XL there is a sping and a spring guide that requires alot of tension to depress to replace. Can someone please tell me the quickest and simplest way to replace the spring to replace the pas roller assembly. Thanks

 |  IP: Logged

Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays

Posts: 5246
From: Northampton, PA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 08-22-2009 06:33 PM      Profile for Tim Reed   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
There is a small hole in one side of the fork that the spring fits over. Compress the spring with its cap in place, and stick a small paperclip in the hole to hold the spring in place. Install, and then remove the paperclip. It takes a little practice to get the clip in there, however, and you may want to use channel locks to compress the spring so you can set the clip (taking care that it doesn't go flying across the room if you slip).

 |  IP: Logged

Thomas Moore
Film Handler

Posts: 56
From: Imperial, Mo USA
Registered: Oct 2005


 - posted 08-22-2009 06:41 PM      Profile for Thomas Moore   Author's Homepage   Email Thomas Moore   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
oh damn anyone in st louis want to come help me with this!

 |  IP: Logged

Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 08-22-2009 08:51 PM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks, Tim, I never knew that; I've been doing it the HARD way. Louis

 |  IP: Logged

Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 08-22-2009 08:57 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Wait....you Louis...didn't know about the little hole? You've got to be kidding...that isn't even a real secret! At the shop, we leave them pre-loaded and ready to go.

Steve

 |  IP: Logged

Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 08-22-2009 09:04 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
...the "grenade pin" - pull the pin and everything goes anywhere.

 |  IP: Logged

Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 08-22-2009 09:12 PM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
OK, we don't have many Simplexes, even fewer that had the problem. (I like the grenade pin analogy!) LOuis

 |  IP: Logged

Thomas Moore
Film Handler

Posts: 56
From: Imperial, Mo USA
Registered: Oct 2005


 - posted 08-22-2009 09:19 PM      Profile for Thomas Moore   Author's Homepage   Email Thomas Moore   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
ok really is there an easier way to put this spring on...i can even reach behind the assembly to place the spring..much less see it to release the pin.

 |  IP: Logged

Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 08-22-2009 09:33 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
No no...preload the spring with the paper clip. Take the screw out that the arm pivots on. Pull the arm. Place the preloaded spring assembly on the arm and as you slide the arm back on its pivot swing it and the fork up to its associated groove (the fork will be at an angle until you get the arm slid all of the way on. Once all is set and you get the screw back on the arm pivot stud, pull the paper clip and that is about it...pretty unexciting really.

Normally, it is the lower arm that dies since the P-1447 stud is not only the part the fork rides on but also is the pad roller arm stop. The grove acts like a score line to break the stud off by just the action of opening the arm.

BTW...truth be told...I often pull the whole sprocket assembly when I put these on in controlled circumstances. When I have the assembly off, I set the pad rollers perfectly too and ensure everything is just right (and change the gasket if petrified...as they almost always are)...and then set gear lash as I reinstall. Much easier than doing everything on the projector. Just make sure you have the gasket BEFORE you pull the assembly.

Steve

 |  IP: Logged

Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 08-22-2009 10:45 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
And the P-1447 stud isn't that much to replace if you have at your location an arbor press ($34.00 from Harbor Freight) and a bunch of these studs.

(The terminology of "grenade pin" comes from my fellow auto mechanics who do timing belts and some motors require a hydraulic adjuster on the belt tensioner pulley. When one replaces this adjuster, the hydraulic ramrod is held down in place by a locking pin, being so nicknamed, "the gerenade pin". For if this pin comes out before installation that hydraulic ramrod, which the one end is under great pressure, suddenly comes out fully extended where it can actually damage the assembly requiring a new adjuster.)

-Monte

 |  IP: Logged

Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99


 - posted 08-22-2009 11:22 PM      Profile for Joe Redifer   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Redifer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Just wait until the time comes when you need to tighten the spring tension on the gate closure. Loads of fun!

 |  IP: Logged

Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 08-23-2009 08:49 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Really? That is pretty easy too...if you have allen keys handy...put one in an available hole before you loosen the screw...the gate will keep it from unwinding...use the allen key as a handle to advance the tensioner one position at a time.....next.

 |  IP: Logged

Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99


 - posted 08-23-2009 12:47 PM      Profile for Joe Redifer   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Redifer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, in theory it should be pretty easy, but instead it is mostly annoying. I use two allen keys so I can pull one out once the rotation has gone so far to the point where the holes have to be changed. Then getting a flathead screwdriver under there to re-engage the locking pin while holding the allen is a pain. Slotted screws should be illegal in most cases as they are extremely difficult to grip with the screwdriver. Still not tight enough? Damn. Loosen the locking screw and have at it again. Mess it up and the spring tension comes all the way loose and you have to start from square zero. Make sure to remove the lens first as the assembly that holds it stops it from rotating (not the gate).

 |  IP: Logged

Eric Robinson
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 538
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Registered: Jan 2005


 - posted 08-25-2009 01:48 AM      Profile for Eric Robinson   Email Eric Robinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The older Simplex machines didn't have a little hole in the spring fork. Sure is handy though, once you learn about it and use it.

I recently took a pad roller arm out of an SH1000. The arm uses a completely different design to hold the arm in the closed position. This arm had a recessed spring loaded ball bearing on the inboard surface of the arm which contacts the projector casting. Anyone know why this design was abandoned for the ever problematic fork and spring?

 |  IP: Logged

Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays

Posts: 5246
From: Northampton, PA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 08-25-2009 09:27 AM      Profile for Tim Reed   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
AFAIK, all SH-1000s had that style of pad roller. I never saw one that didn't.

 |  IP: Logged



All times are Central (GMT -6:00)
This topic comprises 2 pages: 1  2 
 
   Close Topic    Move Topic    Delete Topic    next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic
Hop To:



Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classicTM 6.3.1.2

The Film-Tech Forums are designed for various members related to the cinema industry to express their opinions, viewpoints and testimonials on various products, services and events based upon speculation, personal knowledge and factual information through use, therefore all views represented here allow no liability upon the publishers of this web site and the owners of said views assume no liability for any ill will resulting from these postings. The posts made here are for educational as well as entertainment purposes and as such anyone viewing this portion of the website must accept these views as statements of the author of that opinion and agrees to release the authors from any and all liability.

© 1999-2020 Film-Tech Cinema Systems, LLC. All rights reserved.