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Author Topic: Tightening the framing adjustment on a Simplex XL Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 07-12-2009 11:53 PM                        I've never had to adjust this because most Simplexes I've used have been fine, more or less. But I have one now where the framing is much too loose, so much so that it drifts a little bit each day. How do I tighten this up? All I see is perhaps a little U-clamp with two screws that rubs against the mechanism. Loosening or tightening this seems to make no difference. The manual makes no mention of any type of adjustment for this. Also, did they only have flathead/slotted/straight edge screws back in the 1800's when the Simplex was invented? They sure went overboard with 'em.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 07-13-2009 08:36 AM                     First make sure you don't have a ton of gate tension... this can happen on Mellenniums from slamming the gates shut... the gate works back further and further into the trap and this goes un-noticed until the framing starts to slowly creep. Or... If this is a later machine the spring clamps that provide the framing friction actually hold the intermittent framing sector into the main frame of the projector. I've seen a couple of times where someone has pushed in hard on the intermittend and actually bent the spring clamps back causing things to become very loose. On older mahcines they used small metal blocks and if the framing is used alot the metal blocks wear and the whole framing sector becomes loose and framing creeps. With either of these problems you need to install new metal clamp springs to get the framing tension back to where it should be... Oh, that spring down under the framing sector is a doosey to get at... Some reccomend puttng two springs on the top one only but I disagree as it will cause the large bore in the main frame to wear unevenly. Replace both P-1705 spring clips to do the job correctly!! Another thing you can check is to see of one of the c-clips on the framing shaft has come off... namely the outer one holding the P-1755 spring under tension... this spring does proivide a little bit of tension to the whole framing scheme but is there more to aid in retainig the shaft seals. Don't drop any hardware in the oil sump!! Mark  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 07-13-2009 10:48 AM                        Mark has it right. Bring a double set (4) of the spring clips and put 2 on each side. The old screws are now way too long so bring shorter screws as well (4) and you will be OK. This is primarily only on the old New Jersey back XL's. Louis  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 07-20-2009 01:32 PM                     quote: Mark Gulbrandsen Another thing you can check is to see of one of the c-clips on the framing shaft has come off... namely the outer one holding the P-1755 spring under tension... this spring does proivide a little bit of tension to the whole framing scheme but is there more to aid in retainig the shaft seals. Actually since the new version of the seals and framing spring get the framing mechanism super tight in most cases I'd suggest replacing the spring and seals first BEFORE going to the spring clips holding the intermittant cam. Or just take the existing P-1755 spring off, stretch it a bit then put it back on.  |  IP: Logged Eric Robinson Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 538 From: Santa Rosa, CA Registered: Jan 2005 posted 07-20-2009 11:44 PM                     quote: Don't drop any hardware in the oil sump!! Good Call  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 07-21-2009 12:55 AM                        Yes, that is a good call. But it is also particularly hard since Simplex didn't believe in allen/hex screws and insisted on using slotted screws for nearly everything. Those things are easier to drop than the Film-Tech EZ2D rewinder cores.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 07-21-2009 04:37 AM                     quote: Don't drop any hardware in the oil sump!! Why Simplex mechanics have retractable magnetic retrievers in their toolbox .. how many times have I dropped a screw or tab in the sump esp when changing out an intermittent assembly and those hold down tabs with screws do not like to cooperate? (Christies are tons easier to change out ....) -Monte  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 07-21-2009 02:12 PM                        I don't think you're supposed to remove those tabs, Monte. Just loosen them a little and rotate them out of the way.  |  IP: Logged Darryl Spicer Film God Posts: 3250 From: Lexington, KY, USA Registered: Dec 2000 posted 07-21-2009 03:32 PM                    Yeah, Just loosen the screw enough to allow the tab to swing out of the way. I have had to change the intermittent a few times over the years at one theater or another and never had a screw fall in the sump. But one can use a long magnet to catch a small magnet that you can drop in the sump to help collect any metal fibers that can get down there that the filter doesn't catch.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 07-21-2009 03:47 PM                     Yea, just rotate the tab and lock it back down. Mark  |  IP: Logged

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