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Author Topic: Simplex E-7 Restoration Advice Needed Will Kutler Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1506 From: Tucson, AZ, USA Registered: Feb 2001 posted 06-03-2009 05:33 PM                     I am currently restoring/preserving two vertical shaft E-7's. I am cleaning all the muck off the die-cast parts (black wrinkle finish) by soaking in warm soapy water and carefully scrubbing with a sponge and shop towel. Problem is that when the parts dry, the finish turns brownish. Anyone know what in the paint is causing this?? Remember that these are zinc/pot-metal die-cast parts that do not rust. The machines will occasionally be run...so I wanted an opinion regarding appropriate preservation grease/oil. Mark Gulbrandsen: I e-mailed you regarding some intermittent and spare parts help. You never responded . Cheers Kutler  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 06-03-2009 09:30 PM                     Will, What you are seeing is actually the dirt. You've pulled the oil away and are seeing what is left. Now...try with a cleaner like Simple Green or Zep Spree with a tooth brush and water...you have to brush pretty good but when you are done...you should see the original finish. Steve  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 06-03-2009 09:47 PM                     quote: Will Kutler Mark Gulbrandsen: I e-mailed you regarding some intermittent and spare parts help. You never responded . Thats because I've been on the road. I'm actually in Louisana right now enjoying some great Cajun cook'n!!! I'll will call you when I get bck to SLC.... probably over the next weekend. I suspect that something in the detergent you're using is reacting with something in the paint. Remember there IS lead in the paint from that era. I use Dawn Detergent, seems to be pretty neutral in and of itself and it's great at cutting grease. I reccomend that you use Dow Oven Cleaner or some other type of oven cleaner who's fumes won't knock you on your ass. I've used oven cleaner for many years on most projectors to remove the grimy dort and dried up oil that accumulates. BUT! If you're not careful it will remove the paint. Don't make the water too hot, that increases the likelyhood of stripping the paint off or bublin it up. Spyar it on and swish it around with a fairly still brish to loosen the crud up. Then rinse in cool water and make sure you get all the cleaner off. I reccomend that you experiment a bit before doing critical pieces or you might be re-painting some of them... The gray wrinkle paint used on Centurys is durable and particularly good to clean this way. Mark  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 06-03-2009 10:11 PM                        If you have access; ultrasonic unit with water soluable cleaning solution. The unit we have is just like the jewelry shop except about 200 times more powerful. Louis  |  IP: Logged Jeff Stricker Master Film Handler Posts: 481 From: Calumet, Mi USA Registered: Nov 1999 posted 06-04-2009 05:52 AM                     Try "scrubbing bubbles"...seriously, this stuff really gets off some nasty stains and crud.  |  IP: Logged Adam Fraser Master Film Handler Posts: 499 From: Houghton Lake, MI, USA Registered: Dec 2001 posted 06-04-2009 09:06 AM                        Will, I have a vertical shaft E-7 that has a stripped shutter shaft. Let me know if you need any parts. I'll send them to you free if you pay for shipping. Don't really want to deal with parts that are hard to remove though as I don't really have a ton of spare time, but any easy to remove parts let me know. It is in very good physical condition.  |  IP: Logged Will Kutler Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1506 From: Tucson, AZ, USA Registered: Feb 2001 posted 06-05-2009 04:45 PM                     Hi All! Thanks for your help. Soaking and scrubbing in mild dishwashing detergant and warm water was not quite effective enough. I had some Clorox Bathroom Cleaner in the spray bottle on hand and decided to give it a try. A couple of sprays immediately lifted the dirt without attacking the wrinkle finish. The result: WOW! Mark: I look forward to your call. Adam: Please hold your thought on your E-7. I have a couple of parts machines and maybe we can restore yours, too? Also, the Mercury switch lead in the spot sight box: does it attach to upper pin P-643-D or lower pin P-644-D. The E-7 book is unclear. Cheers Kutler  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 06-05-2009 08:25 PM                     quote: I had some Clorox Bathroom Cleaner in the spray bottle on hand and decided to give it a try. A couple of sprays immediately lifted the dirt without attacking the wrinkle finish. The result: WOW! I'll have to give some of that a try!!! Talk to you soon... Mark  |  IP: Logged Will Kutler Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1506 From: Tucson, AZ, USA Registered: Feb 2001 posted 06-18-2009 06:54 PM                     Hi Mark Are you back yet? I need your help on this restoration. Cheers Kutler  |  IP: Logged Matthew Bailey Master Film Handler Posts: 461 From: Port Arthur,TX Registered: Sep 2000 posted 06-18-2009 07:05 PM                     I cleaned out my Simplex 1014's & 5 Stars afeter dissassembling them with a Dremel tool with a brush bit & light hydraulic oil.  |  IP: Logged Will Kutler Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1506 From: Tucson, AZ, USA Registered: Feb 2001 posted 06-26-2009 10:41 AM                     Question about the aperture shoe guides. All of the ones that I have (including used spares) have erosion/burrs. Can I surface grind them, or will that open up distance between the two too much (once mounted on the shoes), resulting in an unsteady picture (lateral film motion)? I beleive that the distance between the two, once mounted on the shoes, is 35mm? Cheers Kutler  |  IP: Logged

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