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Author Topic: CP-65 problem Bradley Johnson Film Handler Posts: 23 From: Newport, WA, USA Registered: Feb 2009 posted 04-15-2009 09:40 PM                     I am having a issue with a cat 150 card in a CP-65. It is popping and cracking through the speakers whenever there is a slight vibration in the rack or the unit itself. If you move the card ever so slightly in the socket it will make this sound. It is also visible on the output leds on the cat 150 card. It seems like dirty contacts on the card itself or the socket but I have cleaned them quite well with no change.....Any thoughts????? thanks!  |  IP: Logged Marin Zorica Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 671 From: Biograd na Moru, Croatia Registered: May 2003 posted 04-16-2009 04:55 AM                     If that is case, than probably some bad soldering on card....try to resolder some pads on it, or inspect it under light maybe you get see what pad has bad soldering.  |  IP: Logged Louis Bornwasser Film God Posts: 4441 From: prospect ky usa Registered: Mar 2005 posted 04-16-2009 11:47 AM                        Look carefully at the silver can (chrystal). Many times all you need is to solder it back down. Louis  |  IP: Logged Tony Bandiera Jr Film God Posts: 3067 From: Moreland Idaho Registered: Apr 2004 posted 04-16-2009 01:57 PM                     Depending on the generation of the card (150B, D, E, F) you may also have either a loose IC in a socket or a bad connection in one of the piggyback leads. You can also try moving the delay rotary switch (note the setting first and put it back) to both ends of its range a few times..I had a 150B that was noisy because of it.  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 04-16-2009 08:24 PM                     Or my personal favorite that is unique to the Cat 150E (about half of the CP65s...the other half should be 150Fs)...the power regulators are socketed but the leads are not long enough and they are tin plated sockets. Press the regulator leads all of the way down into the sockets so they take a straighter path rather than bending a 90-degree path. Also, the mother board on the CP65 could be affecting things...make sure its solder pads are good...particularly on the Cat 150 socket. I'd start with the regulators first. Steve  |  IP: Logged Bradley Johnson Film Handler Posts: 23 From: Newport, WA, USA Registered: Feb 2009 posted 04-18-2009 12:06 PM                     Well, as it turns out, there is a more serious problem than just static. The 150 (and yes it is a E) is not passing signal at all. No sound when in Dolby A or SR, non sync passes to L-R with no issues as long as the jumper for non sync on the logic card is not set for 2:4. Mono operation also works fine. I checked and re-soldered the 150 socket on the mo-board just in case, no fix there. Yes I have to agree with you Steve on the power reg situation, that big heat sink is the only thing that has enough mass to bounce around when I tap the card, I did take the sink and regs off and cleaned the legs, but I am going to try putting them in strait all the way in the socket as you suggested. I have a new cat 150F card coming on Monday, sure hope that fixes the problem.  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 04-18-2009 12:21 PM                     Bradley, Note, I did not say to remove the regulators from the heat sink...just have the leads go at the sockets more directly than at a right-angle bend. I've also had Dolby's "flameproof" resistors fail (open). If possible, measure the voltage regulators to see what their outputs are (tack wires to their outputs so you can measure them once the card is inserted. Odds are, your problem is centered around the regulators with my first bet on the sockets/connections to them. Steve  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 04-18-2009 01:09 PM                     quote: Steve Guttag Odds are, your problem is centered around the regulators with my first bet on the sockets/connections to them. Amazingly... I agree with Steve! Sockets of all sorts have been the plague with Dolby over the years... from these simple and very definately not needed regulator sockets to power supply sockets on DA-20's, CAT 700's and so on that fail. You simply do not need most of the sockets they put on equipment!! They are only there for those that don't know how to solder wires in place or keep the wires they try to solder in order. Eliminating those sockets would have eliminated 80% of Dolby's woes over the years. I eliminated MOST of the sockets on Dolby gear that I serviced over the years and never had to go back to fix anythng. On the regulators... properly unsolder the sockets from the PCB and solder the new regulators directly to the PCB!!! There's perhaps 3 bucks total in parts there to make the board function again... P.S. You won't find any of these sorts of sockets for regulators on later Dolby manufactured PCB's... it's surface mount today although very similar regulators are still commonly used... the metal tab is now soldered directly to a large copper foil on the board. That foil acts as the heat sink for the regulator. Mark  |  IP: Logged Bradley Johnson Film Handler Posts: 23 From: Newport, WA, USA Registered: Feb 2009 posted 04-18-2009 04:03 PM                     I am doing a swap for a new (or newer) card from Dolby, it will be here on Monday. Dolby was very helpful in getting it to us asap. If they (Dolby) had not had such a fast turnaround, then I would have soldered the regs directly to the board as suggested. Seems like kind of a bad idea to have sockets, particularly on the voltage regulators, but maybe they wanted to be able to replace all the regs and heat sink as one unit when faulty????? I dont want to mod this board as I am sending it back to Dolby, but if it happens again,,,I am going in deep with hot iron.  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 04-18-2009 04:59 PM                     I don't think you'll have enough lead length to omit the sockets and keep the heat sink. By skipping the 90-degree bend, you'll at least sink the leads further into the sockets. Steve  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 04-18-2009 08:30 PM                     Yea.... extend the regulator leads a bit and it does work... I've done it a number of times. Mark  |  IP: Logged Bradley Johnson Film Handler Posts: 23 From: Newport, WA, USA Registered: Feb 2009 posted 04-19-2009 11:18 PM                     Well, I have a new (or newer) card arriving tomorrow from Dolby. The problem is very strange, the old card passes no audio at all. I sure hope the problem is the card and not the Mo-board. I will post tomorrow with the results of the new 150.  |  IP: Logged Sam D. Chavez Film God Posts: 2153 From: Martinez, CA USA Registered: Aug 2003 posted 04-20-2009 01:12 AM                       You said in an earlier comment that mono worked fine. Mono film sound goes through the 150 card like all analog film sound. Did you mean bypass? If mono sound is going through the 150, the center signal presence light should light. If the new card works, all is well, if no change, then you need to dig deep.  |  IP: Logged Bradley Johnson Film Handler Posts: 23 From: Newport, WA, USA Registered: Feb 2009 posted 04-20-2009 01:09 PM                     quote: Sam D. Chavez You said in an earlier comment that mono worked fine. Mono film sound goes through the 150 card like all analog film sound. Did you mean bypass? Here is the best description I can make,,,and it is strange (at least to me), If I use Dolby SR or Dolby A with a film, there is no sound at all from either projector. There are no signal lights anywhere. In non-sync, if I have the logic card set to 2:4,,there is no sound at all. IF I have non-sync set for standard, I get sound in the L-R and see signal lights on the outputs..... When playing a film, if I set the processor to anything but mono, no sound at all. Mono works fine, which is how we have been running since Friday night. I have not used bypass at all. When doing the A-chain alignment, I got good Dolby tone to the Cat 222 card on both projectors, and could hear tone from the center channel. However, if any other format was selected,,,,no sound. I have tested all the amps and speakers, they are all good(but I knew that already). The 150 card will still make static and popping sounds if you touch it, no matter the format. (you can also see this on the leds on the cat 150 and the outputs. No other card will make this sound when touched, poked or beaten. Also, I have poked at the rear mo-board with the unit removed from the rack(with a non conductive instrument) to see if there is something amiss there. I cannot reproduce the popping or static noise by doing this. Incidentally, the unit will behave this way with nothing hooked up to it at all. (all outputs to amps removed and projector inputs removed) You cant hear it of course, but you can still see the leds jumping around when the Cat 150 is touched. If I owned a Catt 85c I could properly test the CP without the 150 card installed,,,,,might have to buy one...........  |  IP: Logged Scott Norwood Film God Posts: 8146 From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas) Registered: Jun 99 posted 04-20-2009 01:41 PM                        Check the cat. 443 (format card). Does it look like someone has added or removed diodes from it? It could be that your unit was set up for some custom formats. If you need to borrow a cat. 85, let me know. If you want to pay shipping, I'll loan you mine for a couple of weeks. I don't believe that Dolby still sells it, but Component Engineering makes a replacement which is better in pretty much every way.  |  IP: Logged

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