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Author Topic: Problem with Century Starting Too Fast
Don Furr
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 509
From: Sun City, Ca USA
Registered: Nov 2002


 - posted 02-15-2009 04:31 PM      Profile for Don Furr   Email Don Furr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Here's the deal. I've just installed my newer SA/RE-3 equipment and noticed that motor is starting WAY to quickly. It's a GE 1/4 HP, 1800 rpm version. It has the "deep" flywheel installed but using 6K reels it snaps the film. It's coming up to 1800 rpm PDQ.
Is there a cap kit or some other way to slow the start time? HELP!!

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Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-15-2009 04:54 PM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Are you using floating-hub takeup reels? With 5" or larger hubs? Fixed-hub 6000' takeups _will_ snap the film unless you have the takeup tension set just perfectly. You really want the 7" floating-hub reels, but those can be hard to find.

I just went through the "projector starts too fast" issue myself. I have the 1725 RPM async motors, for which there is a Century slow-start kit (resistor that goes between a start winding and the AC line). I don't know if these apply to the 1800 RPM motor, which is probably a sync motor. With the sync motor, you could use an inverter drive (TB Woods E-TRAC, or similar) to control the ramp-up.

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 02-15-2009 05:21 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You would want to also switch to a 3-phase motor if you went to a motor controller too.

A poor man's slow start for a sync motor is a HIGH-WATTAGE resistor and a time-delay relay...have the resistor in line just for the first couple of seconds so it is more of a two-stage start. It isn't great but I've seen it work with some success.

I much prefer inverter drive...very smooth starts.

Steve

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Don Furr
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 509
From: Sun City, Ca USA
Registered: Nov 2002


 - posted 02-15-2009 05:55 PM      Profile for Don Furr   Email Don Furr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
If I change this 1800 rpm motor to a 1725 non-sync will that fix the problem?

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 02-15-2009 06:22 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I do some shift work at a drive in using a Century that unit has a 1725 rpm induction motor on it. Ramps up quite smoothly. It's the belt driven model, not the direct drive version.

True, those Sync motors, esp those Leeson models, really get the rpms up quite quickly.

-Monte

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-15-2009 06:30 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You'll also have to replace the pulleys and drive belt to go to 1725rpm. Sync is the more desriable since it gives you perfect pitch. 1/4 hp is way too large!! About 1/5th to 1/3rd HP is better for a 35mm version. You can also place a large power resistor in series with the start capacitor or start winding depending on motor style to lower the start torque.

Actually there IS a very good single phase motor controller that is British made. It will not work on capacitor start or run type motors though. Its speed is very accurate. Will get back on this tommrrow as we have them in the parts room.

Mark

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

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From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-15-2009 06:48 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I usually just put a 1.5ohm 200watt wirewound resistor in series with the motor and leave it there
All it does is rob some of the starting torque and unless you have a low mains voltage its dropacross it while the motor is running is negligable

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
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 - posted 02-15-2009 07:21 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I agree Gord. A wall dimmer will also work just fine on split phase motors and gives you variable adjustment of starting torque. I've never tried this on a sync motor though so can't say if it'd work or not.

Mark

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Don Furr
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 509
From: Sun City, Ca USA
Registered: Nov 2002


 - posted 02-15-2009 07:40 PM      Profile for Don Furr   Email Don Furr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I just inspected a pair of newer Strong 5 Star sound heads....they both have 1/4 hp 1800 rpm motors, but there are two caps on top. What purpose does the 2nd cap. serve?

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Robert Minichino
Master Film Handler

Posts: 350
From: Haskell, NJ, USA
Registered: Dec 2005


 - posted 02-15-2009 07:51 PM      Profile for Robert Minichino   Author's Homepage   Email Robert Minichino   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That's a capacitor-start capacitor-run motor, then. Those have high starting torque, and the run capacitor ups their efficiency.

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Tony Bandiera Jr
Film God

Posts: 3067
From: Moreland Idaho
Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 02-15-2009 08:05 PM      Profile for Tony Bandiera Jr   Email Tony Bandiera Jr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
A wall dimmer will also work just fine on split phase motors and gives you variable adjustment of starting torque. I've never tried this on a sync motor though so can't say if it'd work or not.

Mark

Um, slow your roll there Mark. [Big Grin]

A run of the mill wall dimmer is NOT rated to handle any kind of motor or inductive load, and would probably result in either the motor or the dimmer going up in smoke. Not something worth the risk, even if it might work...

Dimmers made for low voltage track lighting MIGHT work if they can handle the current rating of the motor.

Now a variac or the old style resistance dimmer would probably work well.

However. any sort of setup as above assumes that there will be someone who knows what they're doing to actually start the motor, as leaving it unattended at low enough of a setting will burn up the motor.

Better solution is to add the resistor to the start windings and leave the incoming line alone..or go to a three-phase motor and inverter.

quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
1/4 hp is way too large!! About 1/5th to 1/3rd HP is better for a 35mm version.
While I agree with this, why is virtually every projector set up from the factory with 1/4 horse motors?

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 02-15-2009 08:47 PM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
My Grandmother's old Maytag (with the wringer attached) had a 1/4 hp motor that is EXACTLY the same as the old Century R3 Hoover motor. "In those days" there was not the selection of models. Surely we used whatever motor was available. Louis

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Phil Hill
I love my cootie bug

Posts: 7595
From: Hollywood, CA USA
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 - posted 02-15-2009 08:57 PM      Profile for Phil Hill   Email Phil Hill       Edit/Delete Post 
Hot Tip, Mark: 1/3 hp is bigger than a 1/4 hp... [Razz]

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Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays

Posts: 5246
From: Northampton, PA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 02-16-2009 12:21 PM      Profile for Tim Reed   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
[rofl]

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-16-2009 01:18 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Tony Bandiera Jr
Um, slow your roll there Mark.

A run of the mill wall dimmer is NOT rated to handle any kind of motor or inductive load, and would probably result in either the motor or the dimmer going up in smoke. Not something worth the risk, even if it might work...

HAve done it many times for location work. It actually works very good! The dimmer will blow before any damage could occur to the motor but a standard 15 amp wall dimmer works just fine.

quote: Phil Hill
Hot Tip, Mark: 1/3 hp is bigger than a 1/4 hp...


I'm aware of that Phil. I was just stating the range of motors I've seen on Centurys over the years.

Mark

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