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Author Topic: Christie motor brushes
Charles Caron
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 188
From: Billings MT, USA
Registered: Jul 2005


 - posted 03-23-2008 08:45 PM      Profile for Charles Caron   Email Charles Caron   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Has anyone found a reliable, reasonably priced aftermarket source for Christie mut/platter motor brushes? I couldn't find much searching old threads.
Thanks, C.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 03-23-2008 09:28 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
There are alot of brushes available that LOOK like the ones used in the Christie Motors but you have to be absolutely sure you get the correct hardness of brush or you'll tear up the commutator in no time flat, the motor SHOULD be disassembled anyway to blow out the carbon dust build up... that too can blow motor cards and ruin the plastic end cap of the motor. Bearings can be checked and replaced at the same time amnd the comutator cut and cleaned up to spec as well if needed. Christie is really the best place to get the brushes since that is a special OEM motor.... it's not an off the shelf unit!! Also there IS a 1/4 HP off the shelf Bodine motor that "LOOKS IDENTICAL" to the actual Christie motor... it even mounts to the motor mount correctly... only problem is that motor is way to powerful and has wayyyyy tooooo much current draw for that tiny little motor driver card. Ka poof if you have non-fused cards or constant fuse blowing on the fused version and those fuses are expensive too!

We stock all the internal and external motor parts for the Christie PLatter Motor including the OEM Armature Assembly!

Mark

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Andres Briano
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 162
From: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Registered: Jan 2008


 - posted 03-27-2008 01:11 PM      Profile for Andres Briano   Author's Homepage   Email Andres Briano   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
What is the general consensus as to when to check and/or change the brushes? Is there a need for doing it periodically (the checking that is)?

By the way, what does OEM stand for?

Andrés

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 03-27-2008 01:17 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
OEM=Original Equipment Manufacturer - if you want your equipment or any device ( automotive, industrial..et.al..) to run the best, stick with OEM parts.

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Andres Briano
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 162
From: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Registered: Jan 2008


 - posted 03-27-2008 08:28 PM      Profile for Andres Briano   Author's Homepage   Email Andres Briano   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks, Monte [thumbsup]

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Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays

Posts: 5246
From: Northampton, PA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 03-27-2008 09:05 PM      Profile for Tim Reed   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I check brushes yearly.

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Andres Briano
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 162
From: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Registered: Jan 2008


 - posted 04-13-2008 07:15 PM      Profile for Andres Briano   Author's Homepage   Email Andres Briano   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hey Tim,
To check them, I assume you just unscrew the lateral covers and remove the brushes for inspection. Am I right?

Andrés

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Mike Blakesley
Film God

Posts: 12767
From: Forsyth, Montana
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-13-2008 10:05 PM      Profile for Mike Blakesley   Author's Homepage   Email Mike Blakesley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Monte L Fullmer
if you want your equipment or any device ( automotive, industrial..et.al..) to run the best, stick with OEM parts.
Monte - since I work at a Carquest Auto Parts store during the day, I have to call BS on this one. As long as replacement parts are of the same or better quality, and the right specs, you have no problem. It's when people buy cheap knockoff (as in Wal Mart) parts that trouble arises.

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Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-13-2008 10:09 PM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I try to take apart the motors yearly to inspect the brushes and clean out the carbon dust. I've never seen a purpose for the plastic covers on the sides of the motor housing; I just remove the bottom of the motor casing. Putting the motor back together is slightly harder than it looks, though, because the two long screws that hold it together aren't quite as long as they should be.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 04-13-2008 10:22 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Mike,

I somewhat disagree with that! Fuel pumps are something that I have had much better luck with the OEM parts. After market pumps just don't last like the OEM's do. Brake rotors too! Many auto parts store brake rotors now come from China and are quite inferior to the Mexican made rotors all of us are used to.

Mark

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 04-14-2008 05:21 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
(not to drift off-topic with this interesting subject, but I have to add to this...)

Mark mentions OEM pumps, and I have to head over to timing belts since I'm doing belts on a DOHC turbo motor:

Practically all motor rebuilders recommend OEM timing belts over aftermarket since the OEM parts have proven themselves with the reliability given .. and can aftermarket prove themselves on the same level-like what reliability history do these manufacturers have?

Thus, I'm putting in OEM belts on this motor due to recommendation's sake.

quote: Scott Norwood
I've never seen a purpose for the plastic covers on the sides of the motor housing; I just remove the bottom of the motor casing
(lol..) Doing brushes on a Christie DC motor (even going through that little side door on the frame, unlocking the tension spring, unbolting the brush braided wire and sliding out the brush) is nothing compared in doing brushes on those vacuum platter motors that STRONG uses...!

(I might have to do another 'show and tell' on how to change out those STRONG brushes one of these days when I have to do a total brush changeout at one of the theatres I attend to...)

-Monte

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Andres Briano
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 162
From: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Registered: Jan 2008


 - posted 04-14-2008 10:22 AM      Profile for Andres Briano   Author's Homepage   Email Andres Briano   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Scott Norwood
I just remove the bottom of the motor casing.
My point exactly! That was the way I was doing this. And found it somewhat hard to assemble the darned thing back again, that was why I was double checking with Tim on this.

[thumbsup] Andrés

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