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Topic: UA Greenwood 12 Video - Keeping Leader Off Floor

Matt Hollis
Film Handler

Posts: 49
From: Paragould / Jonesboro, AR, USA
Registered: Jan 2005

posted 04-06-2007 02:17 PM

Just got done watching the UA Greenwood 12 video and it had a section at the end with the operator keeping the leader off the floor when threading. How in the world do you do this without allowing the take-up elevator to top out? I have never been able to figure this out on Strong platters.

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Thomas Dieter
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 234
From: Yakima, WA
Registered: Jun 2004

posted 04-06-2007 02:39 PM

It's actually really easy. All you have to do is by pass the variac (spelling please) when going to the take-up platter, or make sure to hold that pin in while threading to the take-up platter. Threading with 1 hand is very easy once you know the system.

--Tom

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 04-06-2007 03:32 PM

(you spelled it correctly) Yep, Thomas's way is the way to do it by bypassing the "trombone" (my term there) by just looping the film across the two top rollers then lacing up the trombone afterwards... course, one oughta learn how to do reverse threading - threading from the bottom up..that keeps the leaders off the floor.

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Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99

posted 04-06-2007 06:15 PM

I don't understand what is confusing about the way I threaded the machine. Even Ian Price was able to do this. In order to thread the platter and get the leader on the floor, you'd have to go out of your way. Actually I can't even figure out how you'd get the leader on the floor.

I didn't bypass anything. Why would I?

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Thomas Dieter
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 234
From: Yakima, WA
Registered: Jun 2004

posted 04-06-2007 07:23 PM

quote: Joe Redifer
I didn't bypass anything. Why would I?

The main reason to bypass the variac is so keep it from dropping to the floor, and when threading from bottom to top, have the platter take up to the point that it crinkles the film. Reason number 1 why I hate Potts/Strong Platters. This also keeps the payout deck from wrapping around the brain "x" number of times. Reason number 2 why I hate these platters.

Don't know how many times I've had that happen to me on all the strong platters that I've run. That's the worst design in my own honest opinion to have. To top it off, it makes it harder to move prints without them loosing their shape causing potential scratches. Granted a way to make them wrap tighter on take up is to bypass 1 of the bottom rollers, having the film take up in an "N" fashion, compaired to a "W".

--Tom

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Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99

posted 04-06-2007 07:28 PM

I purposely let it drop all the way. When I engage the take-up platter from the projector, I am faster than the platter can react, so there is no crunched leader and the variac also does not slam against the top. You just need to get it past its bottom-most "engaged" position as fast as possible, that's all.

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Justin Gorka
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 174
From: High Wycombe, England
Registered: Apr 2006

posted 04-06-2007 07:57 PM

Follow the latter, why waste time and leg energy doing the bypass?

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Jon Miller
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 973
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Registered: Sep 1999

posted 04-06-2007 10:55 PM

Of course, with AW-3s none of the above would be necessary. [Smile]

Easiest platter to pre-thread to keep leader off the floor.

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004

posted 04-07-2007 05:40 AM

quote: Jon Miller
Of course, with AW-3s none of the above would be necessary

Most fully agree totally, but some of us are stuck with these STRONG units. Thus, we have to make the best of it...which isn't that all hard when one masters these beasts.

quote: Thomas Dieter
To top it off, it makes it harder to move prints without them loosing their shape causing potential scratches. Granted a way to make them wrap tighter on take up is to bypass 1 of the bottom rollers, having the film take up in an "N" fashion, compaired to a "W".

Yea, we call it the "Z" wrap - film going across the set of rollers in a "Z" theading pattern instead of the usual pattern - this makes the film tension a bit tighter, so the wind on the deck is tighter and makes it easier to scoop the prints without distortion (don't believe in clamps until I have to .. I use a board instead..saves from scratching the tar out of the platter decks with using clamps..)

Film goes across the two top rollers then back to the left lower roller, then to the right to head up to the top rollers on the tower to the decks.

(try popping the ring out after a wind like this ... sorta tough..lol)

quote: Joe Redifer
I purposely let it drop all the way. When I engage the take-up platter from the projector, I am faster than the platter can react, so there is no crunched leader and the variac also does not slam against the top. You just need to get it past its bottom-most "engaged" position as fast as possible, that's all.

Course I agree with above with what Joe said, AND this all works great especially at the end of your platter threading before you lace up the machine, if you turn OFF the rewind deck on the A-3 units, or flip up the MAKEUP switch on the rewind deck of the AP-3 units so you won't have any of that sudden takeup wind right before you get done threading the machine.

Just shut the danged rewind platter OFF. AND, just remember to turn it back ON before hitting the START button. It works wonders when threading, for it saves krinkled leads and krinkled tempers..

-Monte

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Dominic Espinosa
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1172
From: Boulder Creek, CA.
Registered: Jan 2004

posted 04-09-2007 04:19 AM

I was raised on the AW3 and therefor despise anything that isn't one.
In my quest for comfortable surroundings in my latest booth I got tired of walking back over to the platters to switch the take-up deck on so...

My leaders are 12 feet of junk film, 50 feet of leader, and then the trailers.
I thread like normal, platters to the upper magazine roller, bypass the head and back to the platters.
Hit the take-up and let it roll through the last of the junk film grabbing it to slow it down and pop the pin in the process.
I watch the elevator so it doesn't smack the top or drop to the bottom and lace up bottom to top.

Probably not the safest but I've never had a problem and it can't be any more hazardous than pulling the slack out on an aw3 with clammy hands.

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Chad M Calpito
Master Film Handler

Posts: 435
From: San Diego, CA
Registered: Apr 2006

posted 04-09-2007 11:15 PM

I pretty much follow the same pattern as you do, Dominic. I used to do that with the Strong AP Platters at Regal Parkway Plaza 18 and, now, I have adapted the technique with the AW3R's. Personally, I love those Christie AW3R's much, much better.

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