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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » FilmGuard causing gunk buildup? (Page 1)

 
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Author Topic: FilmGuard causing gunk buildup?
Robert Burtcher
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 194
From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Registered: Jun 2005


 - posted 03-31-2006 05:03 AM      Profile for Robert Burtcher   Email Robert Burtcher   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I introduced FilmGuard to my managers and we started using it on a few of our prints a while back. We've begun to notice a few problems, however, and I'd like to know if anyone else has these problems, or ideas and/or solutions for these problems.

Until recently, FilmGuarded prints have played just fine, without any problems. In the last week, however, we've noticed that a light amber-colored gunk is starting to build up in the projector's film path. It's usually on the gate bands and sound drum, but according to one of the managers, it's also appeared on the constant speed sprockets as well as the intermittent sprocket. Every time I've encountered it, I've been able to remove it with a Q-tip and a squirt of Jacro Projector Cleaner & Lube, but he reports the stuff he's encountered is difficult to remove. Is this a result of using FilmGuard? If so, how can I prevent this from occuring?

Also, FilmGuarded prints slide around much easier on our AW3 platters now. We threw a print of V for Vendetta the other day, and the managers think FilmGuard might be the cause. Is there any way to correct this issue? Would a regular cleaning of the platter decks help? The platter decks are a bit glazed, but I don't think I'd get the green light from the managers or our booth tech to buff the decks.

And finally, a related question... Is there anything special that I need to do to clean the platter decks on an AW3, or will Windex and a paper towel or clean shop rag do the trick?

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 03-31-2006 05:14 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Your questions are addressed with the instruction sheet that comes with the bottle, but essentially yes occasionally you may find a little bit of buildup generally on the sound drum depending on the print itself mostly due to other cleaners you are using in the booth. In the last few years, I've not had to clean a single sound drum and every print has been hit every show with a FilmGuarded cleaner (changing out once a week). These booths do not use ANYTHING other than FG in the booth, so take a closer look at what you are putting on the projector and film path.

In regards to the platter, sounds more like a coincidence than anything. What is an absolute is that your platters need to be properly timed. Click the TIPS section.

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Robert Burtcher
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 194
From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Registered: Jun 2005


 - posted 03-31-2006 06:12 AM      Profile for Robert Burtcher   Email Robert Burtcher   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The only other cleaning product we use is the JACRO Projector Cleaner and Lubricant, and that's always used on a Q-tip on the gate bands and sound drum of our Vic 5's. Unfortunately, we don't have the luxury of having multiple media cleaners, so our single Kelmar cleaner (converted from 70mm to 35mm) travels around our 10-projector booth. As a result, we must clean out every projector after every show, or else things get nasty. Are any cleaning products known not to react with FilmGuard and cause the gunk?

As for the platter, I think timing and equipment problems might be an issue as well... The particular platter that threw V for Vendetta has had minor issues with variable payout speed in the recent past. Even so, part of the reason why FilmGuard is being blamed is the tails of our movies aren't staying tucked like they used to... On FilmGuarded prints, they slip out easier, no matter what platter and deck they're on. The tail on non-FilmGuarded prints will stay tucked just fine.

I'll ask about getting the platters re-timed at work today, just to make sure they're set right.

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Matt Fields
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 545
From: Ohio, United States
Registered: Jun 2005


 - posted 03-31-2006 07:16 AM      Profile for Matt Fields   Email Matt Fields   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Instead of tucking the ends of the films, get an old trailer and cut a length of film. Then splice it into a loop and put it around the print. The film can't go anywhere then, filmgaurd or not.

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Mark J. Marshall
Film God

Posts: 3188
From: New Castle, DE, USA
Registered: Aug 2002


 - posted 03-31-2006 08:28 AM      Profile for Mark J. Marshall     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sounds like you're using too much Film Guard. The prints really shouldn't become slick like that. We saturate three Kelmar cleaners on Thursday night, and start by cleaning the brand new prints four times over the course of the weekend, and then we clean the other prints once, or twice if needed. Each time, we rewind the cleaner and run it as is. We do NOT re-saturate the pads. This works very well for us, and we're constantly getting high marks on our presentation. We do notice a slight build up in the analog sound area, and also on our SDDS sound drum roller, but if you know that, and keep on top of it when you clean the projectors, it never becomes an issue. By the way, we're a nine-plex.

As to the platters, first, make sure that the decks are perfectly level. Also, if you have one platter that has a variable speed issue, you need to get that corrected. Speeding up and slowing down and speeding up and slowing down can cause the platter to vibrate slightly as the motor revs up and relaxes and revs up and relaxes. That vibrating platter can cause the print to "walk". If the deck is perfectly level, and not bent in one particular direction, then the film will be less likely to walk off the platter, though it could still happen. To make sure the platter is not bent, bend down to look straight across the platter at eye level while it's spinning. It should remain flat and not wobble. If it does wobble, then it's bent and that needs to be fixed. Someone may have spliced film by pushing down on the platter and bent it, or something like that.

We tuck tails all the time, and rarely do they come untucked. And like I said, we Film Guard everything on a regular basis. Hope this helps. Good luck! [Smile]

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Mike Blakesley
Film God

Posts: 12767
From: Forsyth, Montana
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 03-31-2006 12:24 PM      Profile for Mike Blakesley   Author's Homepage   Email Mike Blakesley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
And get a film-tech platter ring. It will be the best money you ever spent. You'll never have to worry about a thrown print again, and you won't have to mess with wrapping an old trailer around a print or tucking under or "poos" or any of that crap.

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 03-31-2006 01:56 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Matt Fields
Instead of tucking the ends of the films, get an old trailer and cut a length of film. Then splice it into a loop and put it around the print. The film can't go anywhere then, filmgaurd or not.

...using a clothespin works wonders as well..you just cut a piece of old trailer (and if you want to bleach it to make a good piece of clear film...soak the film in bleachwater, rinse and let air dry overnight..) to where it will overlap the filmwind, then you can use the clothespin to secure the wrap that goes around the filmwind.. - this works real good as well as the above comment. and it doesn't cost but pennies for a pack of clothespins (and I've seen the usage of paper clips as well..)

quote: Robert Burtcher
Is there anything special that I need to do to clean the platter decks on an AW3, or will Windex and a paper towel or clean shop rag do the trick?

..Good ol' Windex and paper towels..done it for years on platter decks.."409" is very good as well. Just saturate the platter surface to where you're almost like 'washing' the decks with either compound and don't cheat on the paper towels. Just make sure that the decks are fully dry before film usage...

-monte

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 03-31-2006 03:24 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Time your platters first, then see if you continue to have a problem. I tucked tails for 15 years and NEVER had them come out. Almost all of that was with FG either in an early formulation or it's final formulation.

Don't use the timing instructions in Christie's manual, use the ones in the TIPS section. As much as I love these platters, whoever came up with the timing instructions for the manual doesn't know how to get the best performance out of the machines.

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Robert Burtcher
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 194
From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Registered: Jun 2005


 - posted 03-31-2006 03:46 PM      Profile for Robert Burtcher   Email Robert Burtcher   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Mark J. Marshall
Sounds like you're using too much Film Guard. The prints really shouldn't become slick like that. We saturate three Kelmar cleaners on Thursday night, and start by cleaning the brand new prints four times over the course of the weekend, and then we clean the other prints once, or twice if needed. Each time, we rewind the cleaner and run it as is. We do NOT re-saturate the pads.
Every time I've loaded up the film cleaner, I've done it the same way... Soak the pads then let it run for a while. You are supposed to saturate the pads until a little bit drips off the pad, right?

Because of the threading techniques of my managers, the beginning of the media pads always gets incredibly dirty, so sometimes I have to swap the pads out by Sunday night... I usually don't put as much FilmGuard on when I replace the pads, though.

quote: Mike Blakesley
And get a film-tech platter ring. It will be the best money you ever spent. You'll never have to worry about a thrown print again, and you won't have to mess with wrapping an old trailer around a print or tucking under or "poos" or any of that crap.
The GM likes the idea of getting some of those platter rings, but sadly, he doesn't think Corporate would be willing to spend the money on them.

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Ron Curran
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 504
From: Springwood NSW Australia
Registered: Feb 2006


 - posted 03-31-2006 08:58 PM      Profile for Ron Curran   Author's Homepage   Email Ron Curran   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You can buy magnetic door catches from the hardware store cheaply - about $10 a dozen. Place them on the platter tight against the print roll. It shouldn't shift except during an earthquake.

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 04-01-2006 02:09 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Ron Curran
You can buy magnetic door catches from the hardware store cheaply
..nice idea, but the CHR decks are made of aluminum.

Only were a few platters that have steel decks - like the SPECO LP 270's and we had magnetic puks that would fit against the filmroll..but I tucked instead due to the print shift on takeoff and the end would work loose...I used the puks for pulling the motor away from the deck when I was breaking down prints on the LP-270's.

I agree with Brad on the tuk thing: rarely if never had any problems with the end coming loose from under the weight of the filmroll. Just make sure that the end is visible about 6 inches and not under the filmroll, for that end loves to snag film when it gets exposed within the filmroll with about 20 minutes of film left and see a snag yank the rest of the print off of the deck.

-Monte

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Ron Curran
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 504
From: Springwood NSW Australia
Registered: Feb 2006


 - posted 04-01-2006 02:25 AM      Profile for Ron Curran   Author's Homepage   Email Ron Curran   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sorry, I didn't know those platters were al. Ours are steel. our previous ones were plywood (Christie) and we used suction cup thingos - hard on your tongue after a while.

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Samuel Andrew Wetzel
Film Handler

Posts: 16
From: Appleton, Wisconsin, USA
Registered: Apr 2006


 - posted 02-10-2007 01:02 AM      Profile for Samuel Andrew Wetzel   Email Samuel Andrew Wetzel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I've never had a problem with film-guard...I'm a booth tech in charge of 60 screens in the fox valley area of wisconsin and the booths that use film guard have never experienced the kind of promblems you're describing. If you're throwing prints it's not filmguard...it's the platter timing. As for the tail not staying under the film, what kind of tuck do you use? soundtrack in or out? If you employ the outward tuck it will slide out on greasy or poorly timed platters (although it is a more ideal tuck). As for cleaning the platters I've tried everything, but what has worked best for me is Spartan Chemical SD-20 Foaming Degreaser....If you can't get that any foaming degreaser will work wonders.

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 02-10-2007 01:58 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
(I've done Parson's Ammonia, or even Windex with Ammonia D...anything ammonia cuts through whatever is there to make the decks clean.)

Me neither with FG having gunk buildup-just keep the pads nice and wet and you got a nice clean print. - Monte

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Cameron Glendinning
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 845
From: West Ryde, Sydney, NSW Australia
Registered: Dec 2005


 - posted 02-10-2007 05:19 AM      Profile for Cameron Glendinning   Email Cameron Glendinning   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
On platters Ive always used metholated spirits.

quote: Robert Burtcher
the beginning of the media pads always gets incredibly dirty, so sometimes I have to swap the pads out by Sunday night... I usually don't put as much FilmGuard on when I replace the pads, though.

How dirty Robert? Personally I find this strange, is it because the otherstaff touch the pads? The pads are very long. Why not bypass the dirty section. I suspect that 2 x filmguard applications per week is too much of a good thing.

The dirty pads would only be an issue if they scratch the print, I can't imagine that that would actually happen . I have safely used quite discoloured pads for 14 days.

I did experience some build up on a kaylee's sound drum Kinoton Dp 75s only needed additional gate tension. Overall not having to clean the projectors after each run, more than made up for the time to wipe down the sound drum. Because I use less, I suspect it took a lot longer to be an issue. I am very impressed by Filmguard and its on screen results.

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