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Author Topic: DTS sound dropping out
Ian Bailey
Master Film Handler

Posts: 317
From: Nambucca Heads, Australia
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted 01-09-2006 06:57 PM      Profile for Ian Bailey   Email Ian Bailey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi
I have a DTS-6 connected to a USL JSX-1000A processor.The problem I am having is the DTS sound will just stop,usually within 5-10 mins of the show starting.When this happens there is no switching back to Analogue-this has to be done manually.
When the sound does stop:
* The light on the reader is on
* The System light and Time Code light on the DTS unit are on
* The light on the CD-rom is on Full(not blinking as it usually does when it is reading the disc
* Also you can't eject the disc out of the top drive unless you power the whole unit down and then power it back up again.

This problem is at my single screen theatre which is currently only holding 2 prints(King Kong & Narnia) and the problem seems to be only with Narnia.I have just cleaned the discs(plenty of finger prints on them)and I will try them again the next show.Any suggestions on what could be causing it? Hopefully it will just be the discs!!!!

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Jason Miller
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 241
From: Little Rock, AR,
Registered: Mar 2004


 - posted 01-09-2006 07:37 PM      Profile for Jason Miller     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Have you done the CD-Rom and SCSI board upgrade kit?

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Ian Bailey
Master Film Handler

Posts: 317
From: Nambucca Heads, Australia
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted 01-09-2006 09:27 PM      Profile for Ian Bailey   Email Ian Bailey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have no idea if the upgrades have been done to this unit.I only took over this business 6 weeks ago.What do you achieve in doing the upgrades and are parts required from DTS?

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-09-2006 10:17 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The unit quitting after a while and not being able to eject your discs is a dead givaway.... looks like the power supply is shutting down. Check your fan in back..... Also, open it up and blow the dust out, power supply and the unit in general... be sure there are not any burned areas on the power supply pcb. Usually its just the input filter cap that goes bad...easily replacable. New AT style supplies are available here in the states... use a 300 watter for replacement!! Or salvage one out of an older computer but I reccomend installing a decent ball bearing fan. Don't worry about upgrades if it was working fine before it headed south..... I've probably replaced about 30 DTS power supplies since DTS appeared on the market.
Oops... or you can buy DTS's "Sparkle" power supply for about 350.00 U.S. [Big Grin] [Roll Eyes] [Eek!] [puke]

Mark

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Ian Bailey
Master Film Handler

Posts: 317
From: Nambucca Heads, Australia
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted 01-09-2006 10:36 PM      Profile for Ian Bailey   Email Ian Bailey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks Mark,I haven't had time to pull the unit apart to have a look inside as yet and I just found out that it has recently had the CDROM and SCSI upgrade.The last show of Narnia I cleaned the DTS discs(plenty of greasy finger prints) and the laser lens in the CD-rom drives and it ran through perfectly,so I will have to keep my eye on it to see if that was the cause of the fault.One thing I did try during the credits was to block the time-code reader with a business card and the DTS sound did stop after a few seconds but the JSX1000 did not revert to Stereo SR!!!!! What have I got to do to make it change to SR in the event of a DTS failure?? I'm still getting used to this gear-I much prefer my XD-10's and CSP 1200's [Smile]

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Chris Boland
Film Handler

Posts: 6
From: Kingston, On Canada
Registered: Jan 2006


 - posted 01-09-2006 11:35 PM      Profile for Chris Boland   Email Chris Boland   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
From a 'computer nerd' point of view Sparkle are some of the best PSUs you can buy usually followed closely by Antec and Enermax. Generally these companies have the least amount of fan failures and the most stable voltages that are pretty close to the 12v, 5v and 3.3v spec.

I've replaced one DTS PSU and also a fan in another, hardest part was finding an AT powersupply. [Smile]

As with what Mark said, a lot of companies are using cheaper sleeve bearing fans, so try to find one using ball bearings (or just replace it yourself).

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-10-2006 08:24 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I don't have a problem with Sparkle supplies at all just the ludicrous price DTS charges for them.

Mark

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Darryl Spicer
Film God

Posts: 3250
From: Lexington, KY, USA
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 01-10-2006 10:13 AM      Profile for Darryl Spicer     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Ian,

Verify that there are three wires coming from the DTS unit for automation. There will probably be a smaller connection cable coming off the main scsi cable from the DTS unit. It will probably be connected to a small board. (Number I don't know off the top of my head) Make sure that the three wires coming off this board are connected to the proper automation connections. I believe it was Black to Ground, White to Digital and Red or orange to the Stereo or SR connection terminals. Not sure about the third color. Check this and if it is there make sure none of the wires have disconnected from the terminals or the board.

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Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-10-2006 12:30 PM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Jameco Electronics (http://www.jameco.com/) sells AT-type power supplies. They have a 230-watt Sparkle unit for $24.95 (part #233525CB).

(No, I don't work for them.)

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-10-2006 05:59 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Check the sticker on the back of the unit for the TC firmware if it isn't 1.46 then some of your symptons could be the cause

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Ian Bailey
Master Film Handler

Posts: 317
From: Nambucca Heads, Australia
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted 01-10-2006 09:36 PM      Profile for Ian Bailey   Email Ian Bailey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Darryl the only cable from the DTS unit is the large ribbon cable and this divides into three sections.
1x 20 wire ribbon cable not connected to anything.
1x 20 wire ribbon cable which connects to an Interface PCB which converts 20 pin ribbon to flat screw terminal connection for the L C R Surr.etc inputs to the JSX1000.
1x 10 wire ribbon cable which goes to a PCBd on the back of the JSX1000.This PCBd has 8 relays on it which converts 10 pin ribbon to screw terminals for the input of the Format card.
Not sure what you mean about the 3 wires!!
From what I can see the 10 wire ribbon connector can be installed into the socket either way as the plug(connector) does not have a raised block on it to make sure it could only fit one way.
Gordon as far as I know the TC fimware is 1.46

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Darryl Spicer
Film God

Posts: 3250
From: Lexington, KY, USA
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 01-11-2006 09:38 AM      Profile for Darryl Spicer     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Ian,

That is the newer type automation board for the DTS unit. It eliminates the 3 wires. Check for any jumpers on that board. It may be defective so you may have to get another one from DTS.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-11-2006 09:36 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You really don't need that board at all. Its easy to make your own break out cable. All the info you need is in the manual.

Mark

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Ian Bailey
Master Film Handler

Posts: 317
From: Nambucca Heads, Australia
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted 01-12-2006 08:56 PM      Profile for Ian Bailey   Email Ian Bailey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks for all the help guys.
Mark I think I'll take your advice and make a break out cable up,it would have to be the more reliable way to go.
[beer]

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-12-2006 09:52 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Its a pretty cut and dried thing to do(literally) for a CSP-1200. Just save the beers for afterwards........ Ya don't want the channels reversed.....

Mark

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