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Author Topic: Intermittent Xenon Auto strike problem
Brad Allen
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 688
From: Evansville, IN, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 11-20-2005 06:02 PM      Profile for Brad Allen   Email Brad Allen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Kniesley Xenex I lamphouse. Osram 2000w bulb with 1400 hrs.
Running @ 70amps. Recently it has been hit and miss on lighting.
The auto strike will fire sometimes up to 3-4 times then stop trying. You hear the bulb try to strike each time. When the auto strike fails to ignite the bulb, reach back and press the manual ignite button and bulb fires right up. The next show, the auto strike may light the bulb perfectly on the first try.

The thing that baffles me is why the auto strike will stop trying to light the bulb? I've never noticed this before, they usually keep on trying. Once, I had the auto strike only make one attempt and bulb didn't light, but manual strike button worked just fine.

The auto strikes were just installed new this July.

Is this a sign the capacitors need replaced in the rectifier?

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 11-20-2005 07:04 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Does the autostrike board have a relay on it? Usually, the relay starts to go causing the irratic ignition problem when the contacts inside the relay get pretty well burnt. Also, if the relay get itself loose in its socket, this could happen as well-something to check as well.

Seen that many time with the older Strong lamphouses and consoles.

If you have another Xenex lamphouse of the same, swap out the relay from one to another and see if this clears this up.

Side note-what kind of rectifier do you have - a Kneisley per any chance? Grab a VOM, set the unit on DC voltage, connect leads across the plus and minus outputs of the rectifier, have someone turn on the rectifier, turn off autostrike, and see what the DC startup voltage is. Should be over 100vdc to properly ignite the bulb.

-Monte

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 11-20-2005 08:26 PM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Old Kneisleys were known for incorrect reading of DC amps. If you show 70 amps all we know is that you are at 70 or more amps. All Kneisleys that I service long ago had the meter and shunt replaced. At 1400 hours, this could be the problem for not lighting on the first try.

As regards not trying again, replace the large rectifier capacitor if you have not done so in the last 3 years. Inexpensive and a good first start. Louis

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 11-20-2005 08:59 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Also check the part in the center of the mirror that the lamp passes through. If this part is metal then you should replace it with the later teflon style.... this is supposed to be an insulator after all. I ran into this just a couple of weeks ago in Cody, WY.... Lamps were hard to strike when warm. With the lights off in the room and the lamphouse door open its interesting to watch the igniter H-V arc right over to the mirror and metal work behind the mirror. Just thought I'd mention this as I've seen it before quite a few times.

Mark

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 11-20-2005 09:16 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
With the lights off in the room and the lamphouse door open its interesting to watch the igniter H-V arc right over to the mirror and metal work behind the mirror
Now, a big question: when it does this and blows the wire strung across the bulb and this wire gets blown off due to this closeness between opening in the mirror and the bulb, is the bulb still operatable, or rendered unusuable? Why I ask is of those early CH-20 consoles where the bulb sat pretty well far back into the mirror and one theatre that I know of is having some problems blowing this wire off the bulb.

thx-Monte

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Brad Allen
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 688
From: Evansville, IN, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 11-21-2005 01:21 AM      Profile for Brad Allen   Email Brad Allen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks all, as I said, the auto strikes were all installed new this year. The relays are the new electronic relays.

The bushing in the mirror hole I replaced with the teflon type many years ago. Mark your right, that is quit a show with the door open. [Smile]

Louis, you told me many moons ago not to trust the amp meters in those. The 70 amps is based on a good clamp on meter. The meters on the lamphouse's died long ago. Louis are you saying that the shunt could be bad and cause the hard starting or are you refering to the amperage?

It's been years since the caps have been replaced, so that will be my first thing to try.

Yes, it's a Keisley rectifier, I will check the voltage, but I know from past experience, non of my 3 rectifiers have over about 75 volts no load. That's 2 kneisleys, and one Irem.

Thanks all.

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 11-21-2005 06:18 AM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I thought you may be high on amperage. Clamp on meter: is it DC?? If not, you are higher than you think.

The shunt is as bad as the old meter. Louis

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 11-21-2005 08:14 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Monte L Fullmer
Now, a big question: when it does this and blows the wire strung across the bulb and this wire gets blown off due to this closeness between opening in the mirror and the bulb, is the bulb still operatable, or rendered unusuable? Why I ask is of those early CH-20 consoles where the bulb sat pretty well far back into the mirror and one theatre that I know of is having some problems blowing this wire off the bulb.

Thats true, the ni-chrome wire does erode away and its commomn to find it dangling there. Most lamp manufacturers will normally kindly supply you with extra nichrome wire if you ask them. Its pretty easy to replace it and it does help ionization of the gas on lamps with high hours. Another thing is to stick with a lamp that has an egg shaped bulb such as a Christie lamp. This gives a little more clearance between the lamp and the mirror and less chance of arc over.

Louis, I'm not sure who's meters were worse... Kniesley's, or Eprad's..... They all fail eventually [Eek!] .

Mark

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Brad Allen
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 688
From: Evansville, IN, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 11-21-2005 12:51 PM      Profile for Brad Allen   Email Brad Allen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, it's a DC clamp on.

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Ken Lackner
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1907
From: Atlanta, GA, USA
Registered: Sep 2001


 - posted 11-25-2005 08:03 AM      Profile for Ken Lackner   Email Ken Lackner   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Mark Gulbrandsen
Another thing is to stick with a lamp that has an egg shaped bulb such as a Christie lamp.
As opposed to what shape?

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Brad Allen
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 688
From: Evansville, IN, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 12-08-2005 09:43 PM      Profile for Brad Allen   Email Brad Allen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Ok, the saga continues. I have replaced both caps, found a hole in one of the old caps caused from arcing from the cap case to the rectifier case. Thought for sure that had been causing the problem. No dice.
Here's what I have done to date:
1-checked all connections.

2-replaced both caps in rectifier

3-tested auto igniter by unhooking the leads that comes from the auto igniter relay from the lamp house. Connect ohm meter on these leads, turn on lamp house, relay engages and makes contact each and every time without fail, 20-30 times in a row. Auto igniter was installed new in July this year.

4-Measure 96VDC no load coming from the rectifier. I can watch the volt meter and see the caps bleed off after turning off the lamp house, and hear the relay release when the voltage drops below 74vdc. Takes about 2 minutes for this to occur.

5-removed the nuts holding the telsa coil/ignitor assembly to the case of the lamphouse. There is now layers of cardboard insulating this assembly from the case on two sides, back and bottom.
None of this has made any difference in starting at all.

The new style longer teflon bushing is installed in the mirror.

When trying to light the bulb here is what transpires. It makes no difference if you apply power manually by the toggle switch on the back of the lamp house or by the manual switch on the automation or by the automation it self.

1-trying to ignite the bulb, sometimes it will work like a charm. Instantly ignite.

2-then the very next time (in this instance, 2 minutes later while I was testing) the lamp house will sit there and do absolutely nothing. I can hear the auto igniter relay engage, but the lamp never attempts to light. I can press the manual ignite button on the back of the lamp house when this occurs, lamp will fire right up.

3-Other times, when trying to ignite the bulb, the lamp will attempt to auto ignite once or twice, and then will stop trying to ignite. You can press manual igniter button. Lamp will fire right up.

4-Other times, when trying to ignite the bulb. The lamp will attempt to light 2-3-4 times, and then will light.

The bulb is an Osram 2000 watt that has 1800 hrs on it. The first 1300 hours was put on the bulb prior to doing the Grainger blower upgrade. I have never had a bulb act like the above description, but could it be the bulb that is causing the auto igniter to have problems. But yet the manual ignite button lights the bulb fine?

For those just joining us, this is in a Kneisley Xenex 1 lamphouse with a Kneisley rectifier.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Stumped in Indiana

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 12-08-2005 10:44 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Ken Lackner
As opposed to what shape?

Ken,

Some lamps are round shaped and some are egg/oblong shaped. The oblong shaped lamps give you more clearnace keeping the ionizing helper wire away from the mirror and less possible arc over problems in some cases. They also are better in that they allow more light to come back to the aperature since they don't block as much of the reflector.

Brad,

I wonder of your auto strike units have the correct zener diodes in them??? Wrong voltage diodes might cause your problem. The relay should engage right when the DC peaks at its highest point. BTW: 96 volts does seem a little low to me. Also... are you ABSOLUTELY SURE that the high voltage is NOT arcing over someplace in the lamphouse, this is all too common in the Xenex-1??? This is even more common in humid climates like yours... and it even happens out here in bone dry climates!

Lastly, You are just a stones throw from Louis... why not have him over to see whats up, get some chips and beers, kick back and let him fix the thing?

Mark

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Brad Allen
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 688
From: Evansville, IN, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 12-09-2005 01:21 PM      Profile for Brad Allen   Email Brad Allen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The zener diode is a 68v diode. Same as in the other two lamphouse's and they both work fine.

The lamphouse in question worked perfectly until about a month ago, then started this nonsense.

No I'm not positive voltage isn't arcing over somewhere.

But if voltage is arcing, why does the manual push button work when the auto igniter won't?

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 12-09-2005 04:08 PM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I think you should swap the auto strike units. Mark may well be on to something. When you manually ignite, you are slower than the relay; so no load goes on up higher. Louis

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Brad Allen
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 688
From: Evansville, IN, USA
Registered: May 2000


 - posted 12-09-2005 04:24 PM      Profile for Brad Allen   Email Brad Allen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Interesting. I'll give that a try. I've practically had it all out on the floor and back in numerous times. I'm getting pretty good at this. [Big Grin]

Thanks guys.

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