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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Simplex PR 1050 Gate/Trap Tension (Page 1)

 
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Author Topic: Simplex PR 1050 Gate/Trap Tension
Michael Elam
Film Handler

Posts: 84
From: Clarksville, IN, USA
Registered: Mar 2001


 - posted 08-18-2005 02:55 PM      Profile for Michael Elam   Email Michael Elam   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
On a Simplex PR 1050, what is the best way to determine how tension is to be on the Gate/Film Trap? Just enough to keep the
film still? [Eek!]

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Dan Lyons
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 698
From: Seal Beach, CA
Registered: Sep 2002


 - posted 08-18-2005 03:06 PM      Profile for Dan Lyons   Email Dan Lyons   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Run your loop of RP-40 and slowly increase your tension until image is steady. [thumbsup]

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 08-18-2005 03:12 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Dan Lyons
Run your loop of RP-40 and slowly increase your tension until image is steady.
That's fine, but I really suggest optimizing the tension for each film you run, as things like process machine drying conditions and the age of the print can affect the optimum setting. Yes, slowly increase tension until steadiness is good, then go no higher. If you have to use very high tension, something else may be wrong.

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Dan Lyons
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 698
From: Seal Beach, CA
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 - posted 08-18-2005 03:49 PM      Profile for Dan Lyons   Email Dan Lyons   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: John Pytlak
That's fine, but I really suggest optimizing the tension for each film you run
You've got to be joking. [Confused] That would be reasonable if someone was going to be running an old brittle 4-track mag print (anyone who would ask about this wouldn't or shouldn't be running that type of thing to begin with), but I'm pretty sure the question here was about setting the tension for poly prints at your run of the mill multiplex.

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John Pytlak
Film God

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From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 08-18-2005 04:02 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
It's a "suggestion" for getting optimal quality. You "tweek" focus when you start each feature, don't you? How long would it take to "tweek" the tension too?

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 08-18-2005 04:17 PM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
is your trap and gate assembly, the flat gate style, or the curved gate variety?

If the curved gate, you'll have to watch out for excessive band wear, especially at the top of the bands where the upper loop can make contact when the film enters the trap.

I always maintain the tension knob at the "1" position for curved gates. Flat gates can be variable if needed.

Now, if you're having trouble with picture steadiness and having to send the tension up to the max, the trap and gate assembly has an adjustment for closure. And that adjustment is the gate stop allen screw located on the trap side assembly below and right of the aperture plate .

This screw is what stops the gate at a precise point.

Adjust this screw to where the gate can close a bit tighter with the setting knob at minumum to where the picture is steady and the film is actually running smooth through the assembly.

This is a step method of adjustment-by taking off the gate, adjust the screw a bit, rethread to see if steadiness is there, if not, repeat the cycle until the goal is achieved.

-Monte

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

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From: Toronto Ontario Canada
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 - posted 08-18-2005 04:38 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote "Run your loop of RP-40" there is no such thing as a loop of RP40 [Smile]
The test film in question is 35PA

Also it is on BW stock typically and a different sprocket pitch so again it isn't the best choice
Also there is differences between print runs and labs for the amount of moisture in the print and also the amount of lubrication so it needs to be adjusted on a per print basis
The minimum tension required to maintain focus and steadiness is all that is wanted

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 08-18-2005 04:48 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Nope, John was not kidding...tension should be checked on a print by print basis with the lowest tension needed to do the job. On a Simplex and Century with just 5 detented positions this might seam crude but on other brands, the tension is quite variable and in the case of a Norelco AA2, can be easily mal adjusted when the gate is opened.

As to setting gate depth as a form of tension adjustment...that is just plain silly. Generally, without binding the film, you want the gate as close to the aperture but allowing for the film to swell such that it never can blister into the aperture plate. With higher wattage lamps, about 1/8" is a good starting point, with smaller lamps a closer gap can often be had but make sure you don't bind the film as it exits or enters the gate. The closer you get the gate to the aperture (again with out binding or blistering the film) the less of a "fringe" area you will have and less bleed on the masking.

Tension bands don't come into play on this...depending on the projector, there are other tricks of the trade to get them optimised and for Simplex and Century, ideally set to "1" for most films.

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Gordon Bachlund
Jedi Master Film Handler

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From: Monrovia, CA, USA
Registered: Aug 1999


 - posted 08-18-2005 05:38 PM      Profile for Gordon Bachlund   Author's Homepage   Email Gordon Bachlund   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
RP 40 is the specification for 35-mm Projector Alignment and Screen Image Quality Test Film. [Smile]

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John Hawkinson
Film God

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From: Cambridge, MA, USA
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 - posted 08-18-2005 06:23 PM      Profile for John Hawkinson   Email John Hawkinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, but RP40 can refer to both 35PA (black-and-white) and 35IQ (on color stock).

--jhawk

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-18-2005 06:28 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
actually it isn't can but does refer to the use of either test film the point being there is no RP40 test film

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-18-2005 08:13 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Dan Lyons
You've got to be joking.
Well the Simplex(Pile-O-Pot Metal) trap/gate is quite crude but it can work well if one pays attention to what you are running through it. Not only does the trap band tension adjustment affect steadiness it also can affect how well the image focuses on the screen. Merely running a tst loop won't do much good. You have to pay attention to the film you are running through at any given time and get used to how your particuluar machine behaves and then set it to achieve best steadiness and flatness of focus. I find that normally the tension knob will lie somewhere between the first and third click stop.

Mark

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Dan Lyons
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 698
From: Seal Beach, CA
Registered: Sep 2002


 - posted 08-18-2005 10:28 PM      Profile for Dan Lyons   Email Dan Lyons   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
So we should all "ride" the tension knob and also adjust for each trailer we run. [evil]

quote: Gordon McLeod

Also it is on BW stock typically and a different sprocket pitch so again it isn't the best choice

I've run two features printed on stock with that type of sprocket pitch in the past year, both ran just fine and looked good on screen.

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

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From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
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 - posted 08-19-2005 02:03 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Dan Lyons
So we should all "ride" the tension knob and also adjust for each trailer we run.

..I've done that a few times...sometimes with old acetate stock, and "green" prints.

There is no such thing as perfect film just as there is no such thing as a perfect machine, for each roll of stock (or even emulsion) could be a few microns difference in thickness, but generally most machines, if adjusted correctly can "forgive" this difference of thickness per each roll.

-Monte

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Scott Norwood
Film God

Posts: 8146
From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas)
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-19-2005 06:16 AM      Profile for Scott Norwood   Author's Homepage   Email Scott Norwood   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I've run a number of Century "C" projectors that give a perfectly steady image at the minimum tension setting possible (without removing the nuts completely). Is this a sign that something is wrong with the gate/trap assemblies?

(On the other hand, Century JJs running mag 70mm _definitely_ require tension adjustments for every film and, sometimes, every reel of every film.

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