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Author Topic: Simplex Intermittent Shaft Collar
Ian Bailey
Master Film Handler

Posts: 317
From: Nambucca Heads, Australia
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted 01-25-2005 03:27 AM      Profile for Ian Bailey   Email Ian Bailey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The Intermittent Shaft on my Simplex PR 1014 has a Collar on the end of it(operating side of the projector).This collar has 2 grub screws holding it to the end of the shaft.I don't seem to be able to loosen these grub screws with Allen Keys-I have since been told that they are not designed for Allen Keys.What tool is required to undo these grub screws?

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 01-25-2005 04:54 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi again Ian - yes, these "grub" screws are the Allen variety. One must use a 1/16" allen, preferably the square end type, not the ball end type of Allen. Ball end Allens of this size have a hard time making secure contact with the six sides of that socket hole.

Unfort, the metric size of 1.5mm is a bit too small for this socket.

If the allen sockets are rounded out, you probably might have to use an "easy-out" of this size to remove those Allen set screws, then order new ones.

Can be a bit of a pain if not careful with these small allen setscrews.

good luck once again. - Monte

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Ian Bailey
Master Film Handler

Posts: 317
From: Nambucca Heads, Australia
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted 01-25-2005 05:41 AM      Profile for Ian Bailey   Email Ian Bailey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Monte
We will have to stop meeting like this or people will start to talk!!!
Thanks for your advice but I have tried every Allen key I have and I don't seem to be able to get one to fit.I have been told by a friend who does a lot of work on Simplexes that on the early machines these "grub" screws were in fact not Allen heads and Simplex changed them to Allen heads in later models.I'm wandering whether they are "Torx" head(I think that is what they are called?) But i have been trying ball ended allen keys so I will try and get a square ended one as you suggest and see if that works.

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 01-25-2005 07:57 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Whoa...the intermittent collar screws are often "Bristol" style set screws, not allen...particularly if you have an older projector (Remember, the PR-1014 dates back to the 1960s and began life as a black wrinkle-finish head).

Steve

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-25-2005 08:49 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, Steve is right they are Bristol. In the states you can get a small set of Bristol wrenches from GC Electronics and also from mchine shop sundry suppliers. If you can't locate a Bristol of the correct size select a very small phillips screw driver that will fit the slots. Then file fown the tip just enough to allow the screwdriver to penetrate into the cross slot enough and then loosen them up. Of course the real wrench is always the perfered tool but this does work in a pinch. While that end cap is off check the condition of the bushing and the star shaft at that end. Usually you will find the star shaft scored and the bushing worn since no one oils that for the most part. I suggest drilling an tiny oil sink in a new bushing assy if you replace the old one and oil it on a regular basis. Although the bushing is "oilite" it tends to run out of oil quickly during its life. This spot on the movement is but one on a list of X-L pet peves I have thats a mile long! Also get 2 6/32 X 3/16 long allen head set screws and replace the Bristols with them. Be sure to set the collar correctly when you go to tighten it down. Too tight and you will put excess wear on the movement.

Mark

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Pete Lawrence
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 192
From: Middleburg, PA
Registered: Aug 1999


 - posted 01-25-2005 09:21 AM      Profile for Pete Lawrence   Email Pete Lawrence   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
 -

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-25-2005 10:00 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Pete, Here's a place that sells them........

 -

This set is available for 16.00 U.S. plus shipping Here It should have the correct size in it for the X-L. Others at least should find this guys site somewhat interesting!

Mark

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Ken Layton
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1452
From: Olympia, Wash. USA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 01-25-2005 10:21 AM      Profile for Ken Layton   Email Ken Layton   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Bell & Howell was another projector manufacturer that used large quantities of Bristol setscrews throughout the machinery. They had been using Bristol setscrews since at least 1950.

[ 01-26-2005, 10:16 AM: Message edited by: Ken Layton ]

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Bob Koch
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 183
From: williams ca
Registered: Nov 2001


 - posted 01-25-2005 07:39 PM      Profile for Bob Koch   Email Bob Koch   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Western Electric, alias ERPI, used 4 splined Bristol set screws in their universal[1A] base whenI was in high school. AlwAys had to have a Bristol spline wrench for XL intermittent collars. Super Simplex used a conventional screw, as in your eyeglass frame and I may be wrong[have to be the first time] E7`s used a conventional allen.

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Ian Bailey
Master Film Handler

Posts: 317
From: Nambucca Heads, Australia
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted 01-25-2005 11:20 PM      Profile for Ian Bailey   Email Ian Bailey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks guys for your help-I will try and track down a set of Bristol's.
Mark- thanks for your tips the oil hole sounds like a good idea.

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Monte L Fullmer
Film God

Posts: 8367
From: Nampa, Idaho, USA
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted 01-26-2005 01:15 AM      Profile for Monte L Fullmer   Email Monte L Fullmer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yea..thx for that help as well Marko. For I've never heard of these "Bristol" wrenches, even when I did work on the old black wrinkled XL's and where a 1/16" allen did work on these collars screws.

Have to remember this one. -thx Monte

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 01-26-2005 06:47 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Some people get all of the credit <sniff, sniff>. Believe it or not, the Bristol type set screw was used up until much more recently...I wanna say the change occured under Strong's control of the projector.

The Soundhead lateral guide roller also used the Bristol type set screw on the pivot pin and the operating lever. The operating lever was changed to a square head set screw prior to Strong though.

Steve

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