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Author Topic: X-L Framing Lamp Switch Steve Kraus Film God Posts: 4094 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 01-06-2005 06:25 PM                    What's an original part number for the Simplex 35 / X-L (PR1014) threading lamp switch, the one the door depresses? It's P1820 in the manual. For that matter what are the bulbs? I should get a few of those, too.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-06-2005 06:58 PM                     Funny you should ask. We got a bag of those thin little micros in from Strong today. Expensive little buggers too. Personally I replace the lamp with a bright White LED thats lit all the time. Just break the bad lamp out of the socket and solder in a large LED aimed at the aperature. If you get just the right LED it will project a spot of light just the right size on the framing aperature. It works far better than Strongs square LED thingy. To supply it just use a wall wort and appropriate dropping resistor. Its the last one you will ever install! We also do this for the DP-70. Mark @ CLACO  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 01-07-2005 12:04 AM                     The lamps are offically #55s. I prefer the soft glow of the little lamps to that of LEDs. Steve  |  IP: Logged Adam Martin I'm not even gonna point out the irony. Posts: 3686 From: Dallas, TX Registered: Nov 2000 posted 01-07-2005 01:41 AM                     What affect does this (and other ambient lighting) excessive extraneous light entering the lens (at odd angles and bouncing around inside the lens) have on the on-screen image? I would assume that, after a point, there is a loss of contrast or other optical effects similar to those that occur when light reflects off of the port window back into the lens.  |  IP: Logged Monte L Fullmer Film God Posts: 8367 From: Nampa, Idaho, USA Registered: Nov 2004 posted 01-07-2005 02:01 AM                     ..or you can use #1892, which are the 12v variety of the 6v #55. Last forever even though the glow is dim, but enough luminance in the frame box to light up the film to frame. - thx Monte  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-07-2005 08:52 AM                     quote: Steve Guttag I prefer the soft glow of the little lamps to that of LEDs. I have to chuckle at that as I prefer the reliability of the LED over the sexy glow of the 55 lamp. The LED also allows one to frame the film under the full illumination of track lighting or what ever overhead lights are being used. quote: Monte L Fullmer Last forever even though the glow is dim Why even bother with a framing lamp at all if you are using a 12 volt lamp in there? Its more like a lightning bug. Mark @ CLACO  |  IP: Logged Thomas King Expert Film Handler Posts: 119 From: Sheffield, Yorkshire, England Registered: Oct 2004 posted 01-07-2005 09:08 AM                        Ahh, it'd be nice to have a framing lamp that worked. I have to frame to the glow of the arc lamp. Through a shut douser, of course.  |  IP: Logged Steve Kraus Film God Posts: 4094 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 01-07-2005 09:42 AM                    And the part number of the switch is...?  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 01-07-2005 10:37 AM                     You mean the actual switch manufacturer's number or just some other Strong part number?  |  IP: Logged Steve Kraus Film God Posts: 4094 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 01-07-2005 11:04 AM                    Whatever enables ordering one from Newark, Grainger, or whomever.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 01-07-2005 07:43 PM                     You will probably have to order it from Strong!! Its a non standard type switch and is very similar to the switch used in the DP-70... although not an exact copy. Its very thin compared to most US made micros. Cost from Strong on that switch I believe is over 30 bucks....... . Am curious why you just don't call Wolk since they are in your neck of the woods...... They would probably sell to you. Mark  |  IP: Logged Steve Kraus Film God Posts: 4094 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 01-07-2005 08:30 PM                    Oh, I didn't realize it's such a special item. I saw a switch and presumed it was some common item I would replace like any other electrical component.  |  IP: Logged Phil Hill I love my cootie bug Posts: 7595 From: Hollywood, CA USA Registered: Mar 2000 posted 01-07-2005 09:09 PM                  The info on the switch in my 1986 PR-1014's is: Acro Switches Part Number: 224-2114-02. They of course are long out of business but perhaps one of these companies could do a cross to a replacement snap-action "microswitch".  |  IP: Logged Jon Miller Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 973 From: San Diego, CA, USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 01-07-2005 09:10 PM                     For my X-L I bought a miniature SPDT lever-actuated microswitch at a local electronics surplus store, bent the lever into a U with a little tab sticking out, then mounted the switch with one screw and wired the light through the switch's normally-closed circuit. It's not stock, but it works like a charm and cost only a few dollars. See for yourself... The switch is a Cherry DA3C-D1AA. Onlinecomponents.com has these switches for less than three bucks apiece. Even though I have not tried this vendor and cannot endorse them, it's worth a try. Good luck!  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 01-08-2005 01:29 AM                     The Acro Switch # 224-2114-02 crosses to a Cemco (Columbus Electric Manufacturing Company) # JMP-500.  |  IP: Logged

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