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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Humidifier Manufacturers (Page 1)

 
This topic comprises 2 pages: 1  2 
 
Author Topic: Humidifier Manufacturers
Andrew McCrea
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 645
From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 12-26-2004 11:18 AM      Profile for Andrew McCrea   Author's Homepage   Email Andrew McCrea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hey!

I've searched the archieves to see if anyone has named a maker of commercial humidifiers for use in the projection booth, but no one has.

I'm looking for one that permanently mounts on the wall and hooks up to a water and power supply, so rweally all that you have to do is turn it on or leave it on.

Can anyone point me in the right direction with maybe a link or the name of the humidifier company that's on the unit in your booth?

Thanks and Merry Chirstmas!

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Jeffry L. Johnson
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 809
From: Cleveland, Ohio, USA
Registered: Apr 2000


 - posted 12-26-2004 02:34 PM      Profile for Jeffry L. Johnson   Author's Homepage   Email Jeffry L. Johnson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Nortec

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Aaron Sisemore
Flaming Ribs beat Reeses Peanut Butter Cups any day!

Posts: 3061
From: Rockwall TX USA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 12-26-2004 07:50 PM      Profile for Aaron Sisemore   Email Aaron Sisemore   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Use FilmGuard and don't bother with the expense or hassles of a humidifier.

We chucked all of ours right after getting FG.

-Aaron

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Andrew McCrea
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 645
From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 12-26-2004 08:11 PM      Profile for Andrew McCrea   Author's Homepage   Email Andrew McCrea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks for all the helpful replies!

(*That Nortec link doesn't appear to be working)

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 12-27-2004 11:18 AM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
many theatres have a unit made by dristeam I have no info on them other than that they are available in gas or electric fired units
Even with filmguard it is still advisable to try to maintain the humidy at 50%

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 12-27-2004 01:41 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
Even with filmguard it is still advisable to try to maintain the humidy at 50%

I agree with Gordon. Maintaining the relative humidity between the recommended 50 and 60 percent RH not only helps control static buildup, it also maintains the proper curl on the film. Too dry and the film has excessive "positive" curl, and static charge will stay on the emulsion surface. Too damp, and the curl goes negative, and the emulsion becomes softer and sticky, and more prone to projector abrasion.

Always use an EVAPORATIVE humidifier, that blows air through a wet paper, ceramic or foam media. Bemis and others can put many liters of water in the air each day:

http://www.sylvane.com/bemis-humidifiers.html?source=goog&keyword=bemis%20humidifier

quote:
Bemis Whole House Humidifiers
When you want to help moisturize the air throughout your home, these models generate humidity in volume. Featuring evaporative wicks, easy-to-fill bottles or reservoirs, and removable power packs, These Whole House Humidifiers are designed for your convenience and comfort.


http://www.thomasrowens.com/humidifiers.htm

quote:
In winter, the simple act of turning up your thermostat dries out your house. That's because warm, dry air acts like a giant sponge that soaks up moisture from everything it touches.

Fact is that wintertime relative humidity inside the average home hovers around a bone-dry 15%.

By contrast, the average humidity in the Sahara Desert is 25%!





The Unpleasant results:

You may experience dry skin and chapped lips. Dry air can aggravate upper respiratory problems. Itchy skin, dry throat coughs and cracked nasal membranes are all consequences of dry air.

Hardwood floors separate at the seams. Woodwork and furniture shrink, warp and crack. Wallpaper peels at the edges.

Musical instruments are damaged. Desert-dry indoor air literally pulls moisture out of wooden musical instruments, which can cause them to shrink, crack and go out of tune.

Static shocks "zap" you and sensitive equipment. By maintaining indoor relative humidity at 35 percent or higher, static shocks are greatly reduced.

You feel colder, even with the thermostat turned up. Dry air makes you feel colder than the actual thermostat setting because evaporating moisture on your skin causes a cooling effect.




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Jeffry L. Johnson
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 809
From: Cleveland, Ohio, USA
Registered: Apr 2000


 - posted 12-28-2004 02:15 PM      Profile for Jeffry L. Johnson   Author's Homepage   Email Jeffry L. Johnson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The Nortec URL, www.humidity.com, worked for me when I posted the message and works for me now. Two different locations, two different operating systems.

Hope it works for you.

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Andrew McCrea
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 645
From: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 12-28-2004 02:58 PM      Profile for Andrew McCrea   Author's Homepage   Email Andrew McCrea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks Jeffry, its working now!

For some reason, it wasn't working before

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Phil Hill
I love my cootie bug

Posts: 7595
From: Hollywood, CA USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 12-28-2004 04:39 PM      Profile for Phil Hill   Email Phil Hill       Edit/Delete Post 
John is absolutely right... use only evaporative humidifiers. More upkeep and maintenance, but well worth it.

While other types may be OK for general humidification, do NOT use the below for projection booths or for film storage.

STAY AWAY from the atomizing types that spray a micro mist of water. Unless everything is working perfect, including room temp, etc, they will cover everything with "mist"... water.

STAY AWAY from the steam types that boil water to produce steam for the humidification. Unless your water is ***PERFECT*** they will introduce minute mineral particles into the air that also LOVES to collect as dust on film and equipment. Even if installed in the HVAC system, the particles still get through the filters.

>>> Phil

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David Yauch
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 206
From: Mesa, AZ, USA
Registered: Oct 2004


 - posted 12-29-2004 08:40 PM      Profile for David Yauch   Email David Yauch   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have a similar question(sort of) so rather than starting a new thread I'll just ask it here.

Would an evaporative cooler work? As the air is taken in through the back and sides of the unit, it is run through long shavings of some sort of coated wood, which have water dripping through them to cool the air, then the air is blown out the front of the unit. The reason I ask, even though we have humidifiers that work just fine in there right now, is that it works WONDERS at cooling down a room and we currently have a/c problems in projection(which is usually what happens when you run a/c vs. humidifiers, it's a battle and someone has to lose). If we could run the evap cooler then it would not only be cooler but it would help with the humidity as well. I'm getting rather sick of 83 degree+ projection, it makes it miserable to stay in the booth which is where we need to be if we want to get any work done. As it is now people stay on the side with problems to thread and start, then run for the cold air outside the booth as soon as they are done. Besides, filling one big evaporative cooler on each side seems a lot simpler than filling 5 or 6 smaller units and having the a/c fixed on a bi-monthly basis, we also have a higher chance of projectionists actually filling this one, as some people wont carry around 5 gallon jugs of water from unit to unit to fill them when needed, and as a result they run dry frequently.

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David Buckley
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 525
From: Oxford, N. Canterbury, New Zealand
Registered: Aug 2004


 - posted 12-29-2004 09:21 PM      Profile for David Buckley   Author's Homepage   Email David Buckley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
An evaporative cooler and an evaporative humidifier are much the same animal, air is passed over some substrate that is wet, and the water evaporates into the air, taking with it the latent heat of evaporation, thus cooling the air a bit.

But, these technologies work best when the air is dryest, the drier the air the more water it can absorb, and thus the greatest chilling effect. Leave the thing in a sealed small room for a few hours, like a small booth overnight, the humidity gets up to 90%+, effectively the air is saturated with water, so no more evaporation can take place, and thus there is no cooling effect at all.

What you really want is a computer room air confitioning system, whih can maintain both temperature and humidity, but they are (a) expensive, and (b) generally far too big for a booth, "small" units are 40KW ...

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David Yauch
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 206
From: Mesa, AZ, USA
Registered: Oct 2004


 - posted 12-29-2004 09:34 PM      Profile for David Yauch   Email David Yauch   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
We would most likely use our current system, which is(ideally) that all of our humidifiers are filled at the end of each night and turned off. Each of the booths slowly loses humidity down to about 30% overnight(the a/c is set higher by the computer at night when the building is "unoccupied" even though we're usually still stuck there for some reason). In the morning the projectionists get there usually an hour and a half to two hours before the first show, so there is time for the humidity to increase back to the 50-60 range. I think I will talk to our engineering department about replacing the 10-12 little generic piece of shit humidifiers we have with a couple of evaporative cooler units. It would be much easier all around and the booth wouldn't be so damn hot.

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Carl Martin
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1424
From: Oakland, CA, USA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 12-30-2004 02:00 AM      Profile for Carl Martin   Author's Homepage   Email Carl Martin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
so is it ok for the film to be constantly cycling from low to high humidity like that?

carl

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David Buckley
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 525
From: Oxford, N. Canterbury, New Zealand
Registered: Aug 2004


 - posted 12-30-2004 02:20 AM      Profile for David Buckley   Author's Homepage   Email David Buckley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I'd have thought humidity cycling would fall into the "not recommended" category. Hopefully, JP will be along with the right answer soon.

Of course, you could fit a humidistat, which works for humidity like a thermostat works for temperature, and try and maintain a reasonably constatish humidity.

Like (quick google search) this: http://www.greenair.com/humidistat.htm

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 12-30-2004 05:44 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Maintaining a CONSTANT level of relative humidity is the best plan, as film changes curl with changing humidity. Most "whole house" evaporative console humidifiers have a humidistat, that can be set to maintain a constant humidity throughout the day. Again, try to keep the humidity in the range of 50 to 60 percent RH, as measured by an accurate gauge.

A quick way to judge proper humidity without a gauge is to hold up a fresh free-hanging strip of print film. The film should "cup" just slightly, with the emulsion side at the bottom of the "cup" ("positive curl"). Excessive curl is a sign of being much too dry, "negative curl" (film curled with the base side at the bottom of the "cup") is a sign of too much moisture.

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