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Author Topic: Strong 35/70 platters. Jeremy Fuentes Mmmm, Dr. Pepper! Posts: 1168 From: Corpus Christi, TX United States Registered: Jan 2004 posted 08-06-2004 10:10 AM                     I am in the process of replacing our CFS Super Platters, with some Strong 35/70 platters. One has been running for a while, and one for about a week. I will be installing a third tomorrow. Is there anything that I should know about these platters, like common problems, do they tend to throw prints, do the motors tend to fail, stuff like that. Seeing from how the first one installed is working, they are way better than the Supers that we had before. I'm waiting for the "I told you so" from Brad or Todd.  |  IP: Logged Peter John Anthony. C Film Handler Posts: 55 From: India Registered: Jun 2004 posted 08-06-2004 10:43 AM                     Dear Jeremy we have also done the same thing Strong platters are very good no complain at all.Thanks  |  IP: Logged Aaron Sisemore Flaming Ribs beat Reeses Peanut Butter Cups any day! Posts: 3061 From: Rockwall TX USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 08-06-2004 11:52 AM                     They do not throw prints when properly timed. They are FAR easier on film than a CFS platter. They use basically the same motor as a CFS just in a different casing and using a different drive wheel assembly, so the motors should last about as long as a CFS. They are 52" decks compared to the 48" decks of the CFS The brains are removeable, the brains on a CFS Blue or [ORC]Orange are not. The 'phase control' brains have been known to cause some headaches when they don't perform properly, there is a gross overkill (compared to a CFS microswitch) microswitch conversion for them that most people rave about. I prefer the CFS MUT- The standard Strong MUT uses drive dogs (the pins that engage the holes in a reel) rather than a keyway, so you can't use split reels or core flanges with the Strong without purchasing optional keyed shafts for the MUT. as always, YMMV. -Aaron  |  IP: Logged Steve Kraus Film God Posts: 4094 From: Chicago, IL, USA Registered: May 2000 posted 08-06-2004 01:10 PM                    IIRC there is no inherent difference between the 35/70 and the 35-only except for dual gauge rollers and an extra up/down on the tree. Advise you buy and install 35mm rollers & tree assembly and whatever part of the MUT was dual gauged. Box up the 35/70 stuff til you need it or sell it to someone who does. Might save you some scratched prints if someone allows the film to ride up where it doesn't belong.  |  IP: Logged Jeremy Fuentes Mmmm, Dr. Pepper! Posts: 1168 From: Corpus Christi, TX United States Registered: Jan 2004 posted 08-06-2004 01:12 PM                     We currently have the 35mm payout heads running. I didnt feel to comfortable running the others. For now the rollers on the tree are for 35/70, until replacements are ordered.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 08-06-2004 05:37 PM                     Well Jeremy, it's an improvement, just not a very good one. Still at least you are making some progress. Be sure and post when you have film problems so I can say "I told you so".  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 08-06-2004 08:07 PM                     I reccomend that you use 35mm only rollers to run 35mm. I've seen the dual gauge rollers scratch many a 35mm print, mainly at the swivel rollers. The print scratches I saw were all done by "Professional Union Projectionists" in supposedly well attended single screen booths. Eventually the owner bought 35mm rollers to run 35mm film and the problems disappeared. Mark  |  IP: Logged Jeremy Fuentes Mmmm, Dr. Pepper! Posts: 1168 From: Corpus Christi, TX United States Registered: Jan 2004 posted 08-06-2004 10:39 PM                     Thanks guys! Brad, I'll be sure to let yall know when a problem arises.  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 08-06-2004 11:08 PM                     I will ad my voice too for switching the rollers to 35mm only types.  |  IP: Logged Joe Redifer You need a beating today Posts: 12859 From: Denver, Colorado Registered: May 99 posted 08-07-2004 04:24 AM                        I agree with everyone who says to switch to 35mm only rollers. Make sure each and every roller on the platter has a keeper as well (though on the return path at the top of the tree, it would be impossible since the roller is basically in mid-air). I literally had to drill and tap holes so I could install keepers, but once I did threading became quicker and easier and I never ever had to worry about the film falling off a roller if the AC suddenly turned on right over the machine, etc.  |  IP: Logged Jeremy Fuentes Mmmm, Dr. Pepper! Posts: 1168 From: Corpus Christi, TX United States Registered: Jan 2004 posted 08-07-2004 05:08 PM                     Thanks again.  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 08-07-2004 05:17 PM                     Better solution keep the 35/70mm rollers and scrap the 35mm film and run only 70mm  |  IP: Logged Jeremy Fuentes Mmmm, Dr. Pepper! Posts: 1168 From: Corpus Christi, TX United States Registered: Jan 2004 posted 08-07-2004 10:25 PM                     Now theres a plan!!  |  IP: Logged

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