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Author Topic: Rebuilding Strong Alpha Platter Motor Christopher Wehrman Film Handler Posts: 15 From: St. Louis, Missouri Registered: Apr 2001 posted 07-16-2004 11:13 AM                        Hello, I need to start rebuilding our pile of dead motors. I've replaced the burshes in some of them, but most motors i'm finding have bad contacts or shorted windings. I saw in one of the threads here that you can use a grainger motor (Pt.# 2M262). However, i have never done this before. Is there someone who has indtructions on how to do this? Please let me know. You guys are awesome!! Thanks  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 07-16-2004 06:37 PM                     Actually about one out of every 20 to 25 motors might actually have a shorted winding. It is pretty rare and usually something else is amuk like a shorted doide. Its a good idea to turn the comutator down if it is even slightly worn. Worn comutators will wear out new brushes in a big hurry!! Also while its all apart new bearings should be installed. The whole procedure takes about an hour and parts are about 30.00 total. We rebuild about 15 a month on the average. If the motor cannot be repaired so its reliable then the Grainger motor(Amtek) is installed. Mark @ CLACO  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 07-16-2004 11:33 PM                     And don't forget connectors, too. I've seen a few with bad/broken connector pins both on the motor end of the cable and in the platter arm. Christopher: I have the instructions and step-by-step photos I can email you tomorrow late afternoon/evening when I get back as I will be gone from 6:30 am till I think around 4pm. [ 07-17-2004, 12:46 AM: Message edited by: Ken Layton ]  |  IP: Logged Christopher Wehrman Film Handler Posts: 15 From: St. Louis, Missouri Registered: Apr 2001 posted 07-17-2004 03:26 PM                        Thanks Mark and Ken, I checked the diodes and connectors, all are fine. The comutators do look black, some more wore than others. I know my boss wouldn't mind spending 75$ for new Grainger motors. He has bought a couple of complete new asymblies but they do not time well with the older motrs evan with the extra 1/2 shaft installed. I'd rather go the Grainger route to be safe. All these platter systems were bought used and we have been open for bout4 years now. Motors are starting to drop like flys! Ken, that would be greate if you could e-mail me those instructions. Thaks alot guys for your help, Chris  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 07-17-2004 11:37 PM                     Christopher: You've got mail.  |  IP: Logged Stephen Frazza Expert Film Handler Posts: 161 From: Nutley, NJ, USA Registered: Mar 2004 posted 07-18-2004 10:59 PM                        Ken, could you please e-mail those instructions also. Thanks in advance  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 07-19-2004 12:01 AM                     Stephen: Need your email address to send the info to.  |  IP: Logged Stephen Frazza Expert Film Handler Posts: 161 From: Nutley, NJ, USA Registered: Mar 2004 posted 07-19-2004 12:17 AM                        Sorry I didn't realize my e-mail was blocked.Just updated my profile.  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 07-19-2004 01:16 AM                     Stephen: You have mail.  |  IP: Logged Christopher Wehrman Film Handler Posts: 15 From: St. Louis, Missouri Registered: Apr 2001 posted 07-19-2004 11:48 AM                        Thanks Ken. I got the attachments, they help out a lot.  |  IP: Logged Stephen Frazza Expert Film Handler Posts: 161 From: Nutley, NJ, USA Registered: Mar 2004 posted 08-02-2004 12:28 PM                        Well I swapped a new grainger motor out with a bad one last week, and it has been running perfectly over the weekend. Once again thanks to film-tech!  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 08-02-2004 05:54 PM                     Stephen: How were my instructions and pictures? Were they helpful?  |  IP: Logged Stephen Frazza Expert Film Handler Posts: 161 From: Nutley, NJ, USA Registered: Mar 2004 posted 08-02-2004 10:51 PM                        Ken: Your instructions were great.The only difference was that I had to use a 10-20 tap but otherwise everything else was right on. 1 question though ,on the lead that hooks to the cover plate with the switch ,there is the rubber seal and the plastic washers, why do the have you mount it to the cover and then block it off like that. If it makes contact what happens? Also where can you get the rubber belts on the drive wheels Grainger didn't have them. Thanks again Ken  |  IP: Logged John Hawkinson Film God Posts: 2273 From: Cambridge, MA, USA Registered: Feb 2002 posted 08-02-2004 11:42 PM                     #10 threads (and thus taps) come in 10-24 (NC) and 10-32 (NF), but not 10-20...which do you mean? --jhawk (there are also weird #10 taps, but not 10-20. 10-40 (NS -- National Special), as well as 10-28, 10-36, 10-48, 10-56, and 10-64...but you'll never see them.)  |  IP: Logged Ken Layton Phenomenal Film Handler Posts: 1452 From: Olympia, Wash. USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 08-03-2004 12:44 AM                     The belts/tires are ordered from your local Strong/Potts dealer and the part number is shown in the platter parts manual. That one motor lead connects to a diode that is mounted on an insulated piece of plastic L bracket. The diode must be insulated from the motor frame. All the motors I have rebuilt have all had 10-24 threaded screws in them.  |  IP: Logged

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