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Author Topic: Component Engineering ASR-40 and Simplex Justin West Master Film Handler Posts: 271 From: Peoria, IL, USA Registered: Jul 2001 posted 03-29-2004 12:10 AM                     I'm converting a couple SH-1000s from exciter lamps to Component Engineering ASR-40 red readers. I received the Simplex kits and I have a couple questions. 1) The new LED assembly bracket goes where the old "reflector lens" bracket was attached, right next to the sound drum. Anyway, the old reflector lens bracket fit flush next to the bearing retainer (held by 3 screws around the sound drum shaft). The NEW bracket does NOT fit flush as it extends over the bearing retainer and one of the bearing retainer's screws. I cannot attach the new bracket OVER this bearing retainer, am I supposed to REMOVE or MODIFY (by cutting off 1/3 of the bearing retainer) the retainer, install the bracket and then reattach a cockeyed bearing retainer (or the non-cockeyed but "custom-modified" retainer)? 2) Included in the CE kit was one (1) roller bearing and three (3) screws (screws that look like they fit in a bearing retainer). There is nothing in the instruction booklet that CE sent that mentions why this bearing was included. Is it for the sound drum shaft? If so, there are TWO (2) bearings on that shaft, why was only one (1) included in the kit? Just trying to enter the 21st century (haha, short of DLP, that is)...thanks for any advice.  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 03-29-2004 06:59 AM                     Justin, You need to remove the drum shaft and the bearing retainer plus the bearing on the film side. You will see that the bearing supplied is shielded unlike the original SH-1000 bearing which is open on both sides. If the bearing you received was shielded only on one side, have the shield facing out. The three screws you received should be "binder" head screws. Binder head screws are slightly larger in diameter in the head and also allow for a tighter connection (most commonly used in barrier blocks). The three binder head screws should engaged the outer race of the bearing so it can't float about. The bracket should have a cut out that will allow the new screw to protrude though the bracket. Ideally, you should also match up the curved part of the LED bracket with the bearing as well. They only supplied one bearing since only one bearing needs to be changed. Steve  |  IP: Logged Justin West Master Film Handler Posts: 271 From: Peoria, IL, USA Registered: Jul 2001 posted 03-29-2004 12:59 PM                     Thanks, Steve...I will remove the damping wheel and replace the bearing next to the sound drum...it is shielded on both sides, btw. Oh boy...MGM, cyan-dye compatibility here I come!!!  |  IP: Logged Trevor Bailey Expert Film Handler Posts: 113 From: Woonsocket, RI Registered: Jun 99 posted 03-29-2004 02:25 PM                        As a note to others using this kit for a Simplex 5-Star (SH-7310), there is more than one model of the 5-Star. In one particular model, you will find that the bearing retainer screws do not line up with the CE bracket. The solution from CE was to leave out the one screw that did not fit. I cannot anticipate many problems with only two screws holding the bearing but...you never know. Also, my kits included the new bearing but CE said I should have only received this for an SH-1000 and did not need it for the 5-Star. Knowledge is power.  |  IP: Logged Justin West Master Film Handler Posts: 271 From: Peoria, IL, USA Registered: Jul 2001 posted 04-01-2004 04:44 AM                     Just an additional note: since I was taking the damping wheel off, I decided to replace the old bearing on that side of the shaft with a new one (just like the sealed one included in the CE kit) that I picked up from a local bearing supply store for approximately $6. What the heck, it's a small price to pay to ensure some smooth service out of this old, soon-to-be-converted soundhead. I take that one out of the pages of the Tim Reed tech book.  |  IP: Logged Justin West Master Film Handler Posts: 271 From: Peoria, IL, USA Registered: Jul 2001 posted 11-16-2004 09:16 PM                     An update: I finally got around to doing the red-reader conversion to my SH1000s...and just like Steve said, the new LED bracket is flush to the new screws that hold the new sealed bearing (on the drum shaft) in place. Also, the new bracket allows some open space behind it and to the right so one can route the wire-leads to the pre-amp, through the gear-side of the soundhead...and I would reiterate that if you're converting an old OLD SH1000 (with bearings that are decades old) you might as well go ahead and replace the bearing on the damping wheel side while the shaft is out. Other than having to use a vise, a block of wood, and a hammer to remove the sound-drum-side's bearing, the conversion went fairly smoothly. Thanks, again!  |  IP: Logged Chris Erwin Expert Film Handler Posts: 195 From: Olive Hill,KY Registered: Oct 1999 posted 11-17-2004 10:55 AM                     Justin, You'll be pleased with the ASR-40 in the SH-1000. It's what we use at Judy!  |  IP: Logged Pete Lawrence Expert Film Handler Posts: 192 From: Middleburg, PA Registered: Aug 1999 posted 11-17-2004 01:04 PM                     Since there is a difference between shielded bearings and sealed bearings and both are mentioned, which is preferred here? I would think the shielded ones should be used so there is minimum friction from the bearing on the sound shaft. Any comments?  |  IP: Logged Justin West Master Film Handler Posts: 271 From: Peoria, IL, USA Registered: Jul 2001 posted 11-17-2004 09:09 PM                     Ah, OK, my error...I used "shielded" bearings, not "sealed" bearings. As Steve said, the CE kit came with shielded and I bought a similar set for the other side. Works fine! Now, I need to get some Beldan conductors for the pre-amp leads!  |  IP: Logged Pete Lawrence Expert Film Handler Posts: 192 From: Middleburg, PA Registered: Aug 1999 posted 11-18-2004 09:54 AM                     While I have nothing against Belden cable, if you don't need a 500' roll you might try your local Home Depot. The ones around here sell 22 gauge stranded, 2 conductor, 100% foil shielded audio wire made by General Cable/Carol. Good quality and they will cut off any length you need. They call it Sound and Security Cable. I bought a 500' roll two years ago for around $35. I don't know what it sells for today.  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 11-18-2004 10:31 AM                     I have never like carol cable I use Belden 9451 or West Penn for almost everything the 9452 I use for mag systems  |  IP: Logged Aaron Sisemore Flaming Ribs beat Reeses Peanut Butter Cups any day! Posts: 3061 From: Rockwall TX USA Registered: Sep 1999 posted 11-18-2004 11:18 AM                     I too have used the Carol cable in sound rack wiring and found that it was way too stiff (thicker insulation, IIRC) to handle making tight bends in some applications. Belden is the best, but the products from JSC Wire & Cable are as good as Belden, and performs awesomely for a lower price. -Aaron  |  IP: Logged Steve Guttag We forgot the crackers Gromit!!! Posts: 12814 From: Annapolis, MD Registered: Dec 1999 posted 11-18-2004 09:03 PM                     It is just about all Belden for me nowadays. Their quality uniformity has the others beat. Mogomi and Canire are great cables too. West Penn is way too erratic for me...no two spools alike. I do use their #117 (single conductor 18awg). Also, sometimes they have a cable that isn't available in Belden. I agree with others that Carol, though a good cable company, has too stiff a jacket to work with well. On their architectual speaker cables(e.g. 1042S)...We've had a suprising number of spools come in with "flat" cable rather than twisted pair. It is like the mandrel stopped with they were making the cable. I can't ever remember getting a bad spool of Belden. Now as to cost, I've successfully proven to my employer that with the Belden products we use, we are significantly faster assembling cables that more than offset the increased cost of using Belden over say West Penn. Steve [ 11-21-2004, 09:25 AM: Message edited by: Steve Guttag ]  |  IP: Logged Richard Fowler Film God Posts: 2392 From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA Registered: Jun 2001 posted 11-19-2004 11:21 AM                     We used at one time Mogami for audio rack work but we found it harder to work labor wise and after a few years in service, it would start to change value or fail. Our microphone cables are Mogami but they tend to be serviced and checked more often since they go on rentals and sound mix jobs. West Penn, Belden, Liberty Cable depending on end use and budget.....Carol is dead last....and Monster, their name fits the product  |  IP: Logged Nicholas Suchyta Film Handler Posts: 62 From: Washington, DC Registered: Nov 2003 posted 11-21-2004 02:51 AM                     I use Belden for almost all of my installs. If not Belden I use Four Star, Horizon, or West Penn. For electrical and portable sound i'll use Carol, but only if it's 12AWG or bigger.  |  IP: Logged

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