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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » simplex PR 1060 pressure pads.. (Page 1)

 
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Author Topic: simplex PR 1060 pressure pads..
Kyle Spillane
Film Handler

Posts: 5
From: Jefferson City, MO
Registered: Jan 2004


 - posted 03-04-2004 03:48 AM      Profile for Kyle Spillane   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hey all,

I am in the process of changing the pressure pads (tension bands) in the projectors of the theater I work at. We have Simplex 35 PR1060 projectors. Sadly, these bands haven't been changed in quite a while, most of the tension knobs are up on 4 or 5, luckily there hasn't been much jittering. If you haven't guessed by now I am having a heck of a time getting the screws that hold the pads to the trap unscrewed. I know they are stuck because they haven't been changed in so long. I am wondering if you have any advice to help make this go a little faster.

Things I have tried include: Multiple screwdivers (of differing sizes), XeKote, Alcohol, Elbow grease, and WD-40 (in small amounts). I have tried when the traps are cool and hot (ouch).

Any ideas?

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Chris Hipp
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1462
From: Mesquite, Tx (east of Dallas)
Registered: Jul 2003


 - posted 03-04-2004 08:56 AM      Profile for Chris Hipp   Email Chris Hipp   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
When all else fails, drill through the screws. Of course this should be done only as a last resort. I have had to do it a few times.

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John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 03-04-2004 09:07 AM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
When you do finally get them off, you might consider replacing them with allen-cap screws to make it easier next time.

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Darryl Spicer
Film God

Posts: 3250
From: Lexington, KY, USA
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 03-04-2004 12:18 PM      Profile for Darryl Spicer     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Heat them that will help burn out any gook that might be freezing them up. I had this problem and heating them helped loosen them up. If yo have stripped the heads out it may be more difficult to do this since there is nothing to bite into with the screw driver. Fortunatly I didn't run into a lot of problems with that.

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Daryl C. W. O'Shea
Film God

Posts: 3977
From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from)
Registered: Jun 2002


 - posted 03-04-2004 06:38 PM      Profile for Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Author's Homepage   Email Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Have you tried a screw extractor?

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 03-04-2004 10:29 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
These are either 4/40 or 6/32 screws..can't remember which. Generally I use a set of Greenlee reverse helix drill bits for really stubborn screws like yours. When you run the drill in reverse using one of these bits the stuck screw will usually come spinning out in a big hurry. Be sure you have new screws on hand BEFORE you drill em out. I reccomend using Stainless Steel Allen Head cap screws or the original screws from Strong which are plated brass.

As with all things of this nature use caution, and something to actually hold the trap such as a vise with soft wood on both sides of the trap. Do not overtighten the vise! Also do not use a co-worker to hold the trap. This was recently attempted by a couple of projectionists here in SLC and one ended up in the emergency room getting stitched back together(Hi Mike [uhoh] )!

Also wear safety glasses [eyes] !

Mark @ CLACO

P.S. Throw that can of WD-40 in the trash and replace it with some real penetrating oil of some sort. WD-40 = junk.

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Rick Long
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 759
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Nov 1999


 - posted 03-06-2004 12:43 AM      Profile for Rick Long   Email Rick Long   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
"These are either 4/40 or 6/32 screws..can't remember which."

Yeah, I wish.

These phuckers are 2-56 and the ones at the bottom of the gate seize tighter than hell.

You just try drilling out these sonsabitches, the threaded hole does not go through the bottom of the gate. Look at one, you'll see what I mean.

Perhaps a bit of lubri-plate on the screw before re-inserting would help make it easier for the next change. (It worked on drive-in speaker screws after being exposed to the weather for a year or so.)

I like John's idea of allen-headed hardened screws as a replacement.

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System Notices
Forum Watchdog / Soup Nazi

Posts: 215

Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 05-03-2008 12:32 AM      Profile for System Notices         Edit/Delete Post 

It has been 1518 days since the last post.


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Fred Tucker
Film Handler

Posts: 90
From: Sugar Land, TX
Registered: Sep 2007


 - posted 05-03-2008 12:32 AM      Profile for Fred Tucker   Email Fred Tucker   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
COuld someone else verify that the tension strap screws are #2-56? I need to replace my bands and really like the idea of allen head screws, so I figured why not but need to make sure before I start. Thanks

P.S. was thinking 3/8" length would be right... any other suggestions

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Jeremy Weigel
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1062
From: Edmond, OK, USA
Registered: Mar 2007


 - posted 05-03-2008 02:44 AM      Profile for Jeremy Weigel   Email Jeremy Weigel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote: Fred Tucker
COuld someone else verify that the tension strap screws are #2-56? I need to replace my bands and really like the idea of allen head screws, so I figured why not but need to make sure before I start. Thanks
Can't remember the thread size, but I took my trap to ACE with me to make sure I got the right screws. Also, if you replace them with allen (hex) screws be sure the heads are shallow enough to allow the intermittent to be able to fully rotate clockwise without hitting the bottom set of screws.

Also, for those that have the factory slot screws and they become seized. Take a small file and file 2 parallel straight edges on the head of the screw and then simply take a pair of pliers to break them loose. No drilling required. Worked for me every time.

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Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays

Posts: 5246
From: Northampton, PA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 05-03-2008 10:51 PM      Profile for Tim Reed   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Part number H-2519 - Strap Retaining Screw, 2-56 x 3/16" (41-51002; 4 req'd.)

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Fred Tucker
Film Handler

Posts: 90
From: Sugar Land, TX
Registered: Sep 2007


 - posted 05-04-2008 07:09 PM      Profile for Fred Tucker   Email Fred Tucker   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
THanks Tim....

For those of whose local hardware store is Home Depot, I found a supplier online. www.fastener-express.com. I could not find anyone else who had stainless screws that short.

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Charles Caron
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 188
From: Billings MT, USA
Registered: Jul 2005


 - posted 05-05-2008 01:19 PM      Profile for Charles Caron   Email Charles Caron   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Most of the weird hardware available in this part of the galaxy.... Mcmaster Carr, part# 92196a076. link

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Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays

Posts: 5246
From: Northampton, PA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 05-05-2008 05:06 PM      Profile for Tim Reed   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Since that's a socket head screw... has anyone tested this to make sure they don't interfere with anything?

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Jeremy Weigel
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1062
From: Edmond, OK, USA
Registered: Mar 2007


 - posted 05-05-2008 05:56 PM      Profile for Jeremy Weigel   Email Jeremy Weigel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
As I mentioned above, just have to make sure the head is shallow enough to allow the intermittent assembly to rotate fully clockwise without hitting the screw heads. Found this out the hard way when I had a mis-splice go through and didn't have the clearance for the intermittent to clear the screw heads to put it in frame.

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