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Author Topic: Lens Change Strips Chris Byrne Expert Film Handler Posts: 102 From: Kirwan, Australia Registered: Jan 2003 posted 12-20-2003 05:17 PM                     I acquired this stock from an independent operator and have found that it is ideal 'black out' for lens change strip. Does anyone know what type of stock it is? The only downfall of using it, is that the brown side (which we use as emulsion) can develop a bit of cling and peeling splices cleanly can be like pulling teeth.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 12-20-2003 05:22 PM                     It's magnetic fullcoat. There are different variations of it. Some are better than others for this purpose. I have been using the higher quality stuff for a few years now and have been very pleased. The only downside is that there are no frameline markings. Recently I have been putting a soundtrack line and frameline marks on rolls of this for theaters I supply. A few mainstream dealers have expressed interest in carrying it for their customers, so I may make it a public product if the demand is indeed there. It can take a beating to the tune of driving around with a strip of it attached to the rear bumper of your car without showing a scratch and is cheaper than the traditional black leader. Plus as you have already noticed, it is truly opaque. (You probably have some of the cheaper stock, as splice peeling and cling is not an issue with the stock I have been marking.)  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 12-20-2003 06:02 PM                     It is also how I hone down gate parts as well as the oxide is very abrassive  |  IP: Logged Manny Knowles "What are these things and WHY are they BLUE???" Posts: 4247 From: Bloomington, IN, USA Registered: Feb 2002 posted 12-20-2003 09:54 PM                     I don't peel the splices. I just drop a frame each time.  |  IP: Logged Dean Kollet Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 591 From: Florida State University Registered: Jul 2003 posted 12-20-2003 11:51 PM                     quote: I don't peel the splices. I just drop a frame each time. yeah, same here....peeling is a pain in the ass  |  IP: Logged Polona Kuzman Film Handler Posts: 3 From: Ljubljana, Slovenia, Europe Registered: Dec 2003 posted 12-21-2003 06:26 AM                     Whoooow, drop a frame each time?!!!! So you loose one frame every time you're assembling and resembling the copy?! That's not how I was tought. Never never drop a frame!!!! Peel the slice of, do anything, just don't cut frames off. Sometimes I get a copy with 5 or more individual frames spliced together because previous handlers were too lazy too peel of splices and just cut one frame before splice. It looks like shit! The worst comes if there's so many splices one above another that the film jams at the intermitent! P  |  IP: Logged Bernard Tonks Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 619 From: Cranleigh, Surrey, England Registered: Apr 2001 posted 12-21-2003 11:08 AM                     There’s a simple solution to peeling off from the brown oxide side. That is to leave splicing tape in the first place on permanently, splicing over this on making your join will then remove easily on programme changes. I used fully coated magnetic spacing for six months before renewing, never losing any frames. I just wonder how much longer magnetic coated stock will be available anyway with digital dubbing?  |  IP: Logged Manny Knowles "What are these things and WHY are they BLUE???" Posts: 4247 From: Bloomington, IN, USA Registered: Feb 2002 posted 12-21-2003 11:26 AM                     quote: Whoooow, drop a frame each time?!!!! So you loose one frame every time you're assembling and resembling the copy?! We are not talking about the actual movie. We're talking about the slug film that is used to help disguise (and cue) a lens change. I don't keep those in service forever so it isn't a big deal to shorten them by a frame each time...actually, TWO frames are removed each time (one at each end). I don't usually have to re-use movie preview trailers but those get the axe too. No peeling for those. I will attempt to peel off splicing tape if I receive a used print but sometimes that frame doesn't look too good after all the bending and peeling. In those cases, yes, that frame goes bye-bye. Loosing (or keeping) a single frame is not high on my list of concerns.  |  IP: Logged Darryl Spicer Film God Posts: 3250 From: Lexington, KY, USA Registered: Dec 2000 posted 12-21-2003 11:56 AM                    I used to use something similur to that except it was not brown but gray on both sides. It was called fiesta film. I din't like it because there were no frame lines and the film would break easily.  |  IP: Logged Manny Knowles "What are these things and WHY are they BLUE???" Posts: 4247 From: Bloomington, IN, USA Registered: Feb 2002 posted 12-21-2003 12:25 PM                     Fiesta is junk. It is thick 'n' stretchy and it also tears easily. Running it through a projector will cause a malfunction. I have a little bit left at one location and we only use it for platter tail wraps.  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 12-21-2003 01:06 PM                     All current 35mm magstock is on polyester based stock in various thickness FPC is one of the main suppliers as is agfa Racal Zonal used to be one of the best suppliers Older magstock and fiesta leader was on accetate film As for chopping frames even a few is "film done wrong"  |  IP: Logged Scott Norwood Film God Posts: 8146 From: Boston, MA. USA (1774.21 miles northeast of Dallas) Registered: Jun 99 posted 12-21-2003 01:34 PM                        I think the people who talked about chopping frames were referring to removing frames from their black leader (magfilm or otherwise), not from features or trailers or any other actual film. When Brad first suggested using magfilm as black leader, I bought a 1000' roll of "MPC" brand stock (not to be confused with "FPC," which is apparently better). After peeling and replacing tape splices on it a few times, the oxide comes off, which looks like a scratched frame of black leader on screen. When this happens, I'll make a new cut. Brad's absolutely correct about magfilm, BTW. It's the best black leader available.  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 12-21-2003 01:54 PM                     One other cautionary note re magstock it will absorb lamphouse head and can blister and buckle if there is two much of a hotspot in very odd ways  |  IP: Logged Jeff Skallan Film Handler Posts: 65 From: Littleton, CO, USA Registered: May 2001 posted 12-21-2003 02:44 PM                     I agree with everything Brad said about mag full coat being indestructible. I mainly use it as a spacer just after the leader for our curtain rise at startup. I've been running the same roll day in and day out for over 9 years, and it's still like new. Quality stuff!  |  IP: Logged Ken McFall Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 615 From: Haringey, London. Registered: Apr 2001 posted 12-21-2003 03:16 PM                     Jack Roe, and others, supply a high density, Black one side, white the other, spacing that is ideal for hiding turret turns etc. I use it for all my lacing and interlock leaders. It lasts a very long time, so when used with blue framed mylar lasts for upwards of a year or more. I've had some mag stock but it's not always the same stuff supplied each time and can be a real sod to peal. The Black/White stuff peels very easy.  |  IP: Logged

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