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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » AW3 Speed Problem (Page 1)

 
This topic comprises 2 pages: 1  2 
 
Author Topic: AW3 Speed Problem
Manuel Francisco Valencia
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 151
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 11-12-2003 06:23 PM      Profile for Manuel Francisco Valencia   Email Manuel Francisco Valencia   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I am having a problem with my platters on one tree. I can't get the low speed slow enough. I did have the old power supplies in but recently I upgraded them with the IR Kit,however, the problem was present before. My low pot setting on the cards is as low as it can go and my filter alignment is correct. I haven't checked the resistance on the resistance card yet since it is set at factory but I am going to check that anyway. I do not think that would be a problem anyway because the problem was present with the old card set at 25 at max. Has anyone had this problem before?

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 11-12-2003 07:18 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Did you change out the light filter, or just the IR led and led card?

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Manuel Francisco Valencia
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 151
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 11-12-2003 09:26 PM      Profile for Manuel Francisco Valencia   Email Manuel Francisco Valencia   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The filters are changed.

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Michael Rourke
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 159
From: San Luis Obispo, Central Coast of CA
Registered: Feb 2002


 - posted 11-13-2003 02:57 AM      Profile for Michael Rourke   Email Michael Rourke   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have been told (by Christie) that the LO adjustment is not critical for proper payout or take up.

I have had that problem before, when there isn't enough travel in the pot to slow it down to a crawl, and it can be corrected by changing the sensor (you already did that..to the IR diode) or the motor control card. I used to increase the resistance of the sensor to 100 Kohms at 70 degrees to keep the platter slow at 20 degrees, but was informed that 70 Kohms was imperative for proper payout and take-up.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 11-13-2003 05:24 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
I have been told (by Christie) that the LO adjustment is not critical for proper payout or take up.
The hell it isn't! Damn I wish Christie knew how to time their platters. [Roll Eyes] If you don't have the low set properly, you can have an oscillating takeup, most easily seen near the end of long movies. That can cause the takeup arm to bounce and crash into the motor, especially on 70mm.

Michael, with the new IR led, the new led card and both the HI and LO pots set to minimum, does the platter still creep? Are you certain that no light is leaking into the arm?

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John Westlund
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 204
From: Burney, CA, USA
Registered: Jun 2001


 - posted 11-13-2003 02:06 PM      Profile for John Westlund   Email John Westlund   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Brad is right about the LO adjustment being critical. I have had a deck that the LO setting was too fast on and never noticed it until the credits of Lord of the Rings. During the credits the takeup was oscillating and the arm slammed into the motor causing the film to jump off the takeup arm roller.

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Ken McFall
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 615
From: Haringey, London.
Registered: Apr 2001


 - posted 11-20-2003 02:23 PM      Profile for Ken McFall   Email Ken McFall   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Here's something that is really pissing me off with the AW3's.

I have a couple that are oscillating quite badly. So did the usual start from scratch setup etc. No joy... so decided to change the motor card with one of the new spares I have. Guess what... the new cards fit in fine but don't make contact and are so loose they would fall out if I closed the flap! Have they changed the design of the connector?

I have three new connectors.... but they came with no contacts, possibly my fault as the manual does not make it clear that you order them separatly. So until I can get some I'm stuck.

To do a complete strip down and reset return spring tension etc is quite a big job, especially as I have nine screens to consider.

One other thing that happened is that I found a module that would not lock in place. Ah I thought just the keyway come out. But when I tried to lift the plate off the keyway was stopping the plate from coming off! At this point I noticed a small hole had been drilled in the plate at an angle towards the bearing. With a bit of trial and error I was able to tap the keyway in far enough to allow the plate to lift off. Is this a known problem, clearly its happend here before hence the hole. But I would have though it ws a design fault if the keyway can come loose and prevent you from removeing the platter.

I have a few happy mornings work to look forward to setting everything up [Roll Eyes]

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Aaron Sisemore
Flaming Ribs beat Reeses Peanut Butter Cups any day!

Posts: 3061
From: Rockwall TX USA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 11-20-2003 03:03 PM      Profile for Aaron Sisemore   Email Aaron Sisemore   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Oscillation in AW3s after doing a proper calibration is almost always caused by a dying LED/photocell unit (the device under the brain that the gradient filter moves between). Replacing this should cure the problem.

-Aaron

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Ken McFall
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 615
From: Haringey, London.
Registered: Apr 2001


 - posted 11-20-2003 03:20 PM      Profile for Ken McFall   Email Ken McFall   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Aaron,

yeah that's my next thing to do when I have a morning to play with, I have a couple of spares. I'm just concerned with LOTR starting soon as I don't want any problems with a full plate of film bouncing all over the place!

What's this upgrade I've seen mentioned.... changing the LED and control card.

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Manuel Francisco Valencia
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 151
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 12-09-2003 12:44 AM      Profile for Manuel Francisco Valencia   Email Manuel Francisco Valencia   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Does anyone know what these "set" resistance cards are set at? For some reason I could not get a reading.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 12-09-2003 12:53 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
The IR kit is a joke. You really should send it back to Christie and demand a visible led assembly.

BTW, you never answered my timing question above.

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Manuel Francisco Valencia
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 151
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 12-11-2003 03:45 PM      Profile for Manuel Francisco Valencia   Email Manuel Francisco Valencia   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Brad

I am sorry but I wasn't to specific above and I threw you guys off. My platters do NOT creep. The low speed is just really fast. Last night I changed the settings on the pots a bit and this is how it is acting. With my high pot adjusted for 25RPM and my low pot turned as low as possible the platter will only spin as slow as 5RPM. At 20 degrees it spins at 15RPM. At about 35 degrees it spins at 20RPM. In other words it goes to 20 RPMS in about 35 degrees and slowly accelerates to 25RPM in the next 65 degrees. There is no light leaking into the arm and I checked my filter alignment I don't know how many times. I am new to these IR kits so what experiences have you had with them Brad. I have some more on order but it isn't to late to cancel if they are terrible.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 12-11-2003 03:47 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Sounds like you got a defective kit.

Seriously, I would return those and demand Christie send you the visible leds and use your existing filter and led control card.

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Manuel Francisco Valencia
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 151
From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 12-11-2003 04:07 PM      Profile for Manuel Francisco Valencia   Email Manuel Francisco Valencia   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I had this problem before I installed the kit. At first I thought it was just the resistance card so I figured the IR kit would solve it.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 12-11-2003 04:13 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Stick a business card in between the filter and led to block the light. Does it stop?

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