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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Strong AP3 Platter make-up mode (Page 1)

 
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Author Topic: Strong AP3 Platter make-up mode
Barry Floyd
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1079
From: Lebanon, Tennessee, USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 08-26-2003 11:10 AM      Profile for Barry Floyd   Author's Homepage   Email Barry Floyd   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
My new drive-in opens tomorrow night. We'll build our first print tonight, as it's only a single feature.

However, on Thursday night, I want to be able to load my Friday night double features WHILE the other show is running. Is that possible?? I can't find anywhere in the manual that says you can load one print while another is running?

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Aaron Sisemore
Flaming Ribs beat Reeses Peanut Butter Cups any day!

Posts: 3061
From: Rockwall TX USA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 08-26-2003 11:23 AM      Profile for Aaron Sisemore   Email Aaron Sisemore   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sure you can make or break a show while another is playing. When the deck you are making up to is in 'make up' mode, its only control is from the MUT (and of course the deck is disengaged from the motor for breaking down).

-Aaron

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 08-26-2003 01:23 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Barry, the only thing I can mention is that when you assemble or break down a print, be careful of the speed at what you do it at. As far as I know, the AP3 platter still uses outriggers. If so, the wind currents created by the outriggers of the deck just above the deck you are using as payout will make that payout very unstable. Keep an eye on the payout head and you can easily tell if you are using too much speed in break-down or make-up.

As a rule, I very seldom make up or break down a show when the deck below it is in the pay-out mode. Generally, I'll make sure I am taking up on the deck below the deck used for building or dismantling.

Reading the above might be confusing.....so whatever you use, just watch your speed and you should have no problems develope with flim flying all over the place.

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Barry Floyd
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1079
From: Lebanon, Tennessee, USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 08-26-2003 02:14 PM      Profile for Barry Floyd   Author's Homepage   Email Barry Floyd   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks guys for your help. I've downloaded the manuals for both the table and the platter, and am printing out the "TIPS" sections for Theading, Building and Splicing. I've never built a print in my life, and I go on screen Wednesday night at 8:00 p.m. (CDST), so I guess now would be a good time to learn.

I don't have any of those "suction cups" or "Beavan Poo's" or whatever they're called. Do I need to find some before tonight?

Wish us luck

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Daryl C. W. O'Shea
Film God

Posts: 3977
From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from)
Registered: Jun 2002


 - posted 08-26-2003 02:33 PM      Profile for Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Author's Homepage   Email Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Barry, to be safe, just build up and especially break down from the bottom deck if you've got another show running at the time, at least until you get used to it. That way you won't have to worry about the control plate's arm getting bounced all over the place from the wind generated by the spinning decks.

You should be fine without suction cups or beavan poo's. Just tuck the tail under the print. With an AP3, tuck the side of the film touching the deck under the print first. To avoid a tail wrap, make sure that the roll (print) doesn't cover the entire width of the tucked tail (leave an 1/8" at the narrowest part).

Good luck! I'm sure you'll have a great time. [Smile]

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 08-26-2003 09:49 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
As far as stickum puckies are concerned, I simply take a preview and masking tape and wrap them with masking tape so the sticky side of the tape is out. Works great!

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Chris Hipp
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1462
From: Mesquite, Tx (east of Dallas)
Registered: Jul 2003


 - posted 08-27-2003 12:20 AM      Profile for Chris Hipp   Email Chris Hipp   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Be careful when stopping and starting the platter during tear down. I have seen the film fly off and become tangled in the take up carriage and cause a big mess.

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William Hooper
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1879
From: Mobile, AL USA
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 08-27-2003 12:33 AM      Profile for William Hooper   Author's Homepage   Email William Hooper   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
I don't have any of those "suction cups" or "Beavan Poo's" or whatever they're called. Do I need to find some before tonight?
I've had only occasional success with the tail tuck. If you can't get it to stay & have got to be sure of the show, take a couple of screw tops from 20 oz Cokes, stick a sticky-side-out loop of masking or duct tape on the flat part, & plant them at the perimeter of the feedout near the tail. Be sure to clean the deck after that show has run.

"Tail tuck" sounds like a plastic surgery procedure.

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Dustin Mitchell
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1865
From: Mondovi, WI, USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 08-27-2003 01:13 AM      Profile for Dustin Mitchell   Email Dustin Mitchell   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Daryl, are you sure you don't have that reversed? I've always tucked the top edge of the film under the roll and the few times an inexperienced operator has tucked the buttom edge in is when we've gotten our tail wraps.

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Daryl C. W. O'Shea
Film God

Posts: 3977
From: Midland Ontario Canada (where Panavision & IMAX lenses come from)
Registered: Jun 2002


 - posted 08-27-2003 02:05 AM      Profile for Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Author's Homepage   Email Daryl C. W. O'Shea   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You only get a tail wrap if you let the tail disappear for a bit under the print. I've never had a problem with doing it that way... and I find it holds better than top under first. If you have problems with the tail tuck not holding tuck a little further in from the end of the tail so that there is a support brace right under where you are tucking.

Of course if you don't like tail tucking you could always make some loops to place around the print.

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Dustin Mitchell
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1865
From: Mondovi, WI, USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 08-27-2003 03:26 AM      Profile for Dustin Mitchell   Email Dustin Mitchell   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
*shrugs*
To each their own I guess, I've never had a problem with a top-tuck coming loose on me, but I could just be lucky.

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Darryl Spicer
Film God

Posts: 3250
From: Lexington, KY, USA
Registered: Dec 2000


 - posted 08-27-2003 08:57 AM      Profile for Darryl Spicer     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
if those platter decks are metal not aluminum you can go out and get you some of those little magnets with adhesive on them and some of the bottle tops like you would find on 1 leter bottles, they are a bit bigger than the 20 oz bottles. Just tape the magnet to the top and it will magnetically stick to the platter so long as it is metal.

You can also build up on those type decks if the platter below it has the film taking up on it. The wind will not bother it then.

If you are wanting to build up your double feature on one platter it can be done so long as the running time does not exceed 4 hrs.

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Dave Macaulay
Film God

Posts: 2321
From: Toronto, Canada
Registered: Apr 2001


 - posted 08-27-2003 09:11 AM      Profile for Dave Macaulay   Email Dave Macaulay   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Strong platters are aluminum.
Although the disc can turn fairly quickly at startup, I've used hockey pucks as "end-holders" sometimes and never had one fly off. Rubbing the face on some raw cement removes any hardened rubber and gives a good grip if I'm doubtful.
I don't like the suction cups that come with the platter and haven't ever seen them acually in use, like any suction cup they require a very smooth surface and will detach in time regardless.

If you're unfamiliar with platters it's easy to miss the very very important rule of NEVER taping the outside end. Don't!!! The best possible result is torn film, but the payout can be heavily damaged and even show-stopping projector damage is possible.

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Jim Alexander
Film Handler

Posts: 71
From: Greenwood, Nova Scotia, Canada
Registered: Nov 1999


 - posted 08-27-2003 09:21 AM      Profile for Jim Alexander   Author's Homepage   Email Jim Alexander   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Tried the tuck, don't like it (both the top and the bottom). Tried the "sucky" think, seldom work. Got the idea of a film wrap, here on the forum, works great! Take a length of old trailer, or leader, and wrap it around the movie and tape it to it's self. Be sure not to let the tape touch the movie as it will then try to pull it though the brain, which is not a good idea. When the movie plays though the wrap will be left on the platter at the end.

Wanted to try the puck, but never got around to it before finding the wrap, so I can't say.

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Tim Reed
Better Projection Pays

Posts: 5246
From: Northampton, PA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 08-27-2003 09:22 AM      Profile for Tim Reed   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
At the South Park D/I in Louisville, I used a small clip board-style clip (like we used to hang time schedules up with), and just clamped the film end down to the platter. You had to remember it was there, but after knocking it loose once or twice, you won't do it again.

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