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Author Topic: Help: Pro 35 vertical shaft washer orientation Dan Lyons Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 698 From: Seal Beach, CA Registered: Sep 2002 posted 06-28-2003 01:54 AM                     As you can see i've taken apart the Ballantyne to put in new oil seals. The problem i'm faced with is the placement of the spring washer <pic 1> in the lower cap(far left hand corner, with Vertial shaft center, and Intermittant movement and shutter shaft in background). When I took the lower cap off to take out the shaft, that washer flew out; many plastic bits from old couplers were also found inside that cap. Now I have no idea which side of the washer is up or down. It's part number 2903 on page 14 of the manual, however the poor drawing doesn't give any indication of the proper orientation of the washer to the cap/bearing. Danny  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 06-28-2003 06:03 AM                     Danny, The bent fingers go against the bearing. The flat side against the retainer cup. Mark @ CLACO  |  IP: Logged Greg Pauley Expert Film Handler Posts: 173 From: Huntington, WV, USA Registered: Jun 2000 posted 06-28-2003 12:05 PM                        Looks like you have the steel gear on the intermittent, you may want to replace with a fiber gear.  |  IP: Logged Dan Lyons Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 698 From: Seal Beach, CA Registered: Sep 2002 posted 06-28-2003 01:14 PM                     thanks again Mark danny  |  IP: Logged Paul G. Thompson The Weenie Man Posts: 4718 From: Mount Vernon WA USA Registered: Nov 2000 posted 06-29-2003 01:00 AM                     Danny, that's what I thunk, and Mark verified it. Is that a steel gear on the movement? If it is, take Mark's advice and get rid of it.  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 06-29-2003 09:54 AM                     I can't tell what the gear is on the movement fomr the photo. If its cast iron then I'd leave it. Steel to cast iron gear pairs are some of the longest wearing materials in existance. I can't imagine that even Strong woulda used steel. A good example of cast iron/steel gear pairs is in the DP-70. But yes, if its not cast iron then get rid of it and get the plastic gear. Mark  |  IP: Logged Dan Lyons Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 698 From: Seal Beach, CA Registered: Sep 2002 posted 06-29-2003 12:23 PM                     It's metal, but how would i know if it is cast iron or steel? My spare Int. movement has the fibre gear. I can swap it if necessary; it'll just mean getting out the gear puller to get that evil pulley off again, stuck tight! Danny  |  IP: Logged Mark Gulbrandsen Resident Trollmaster Posts: 16657 From: Music City Registered: Jun 99 posted 06-29-2003 01:42 PM                     Dam, Its somewhat difficult to tell since both are mangetic, but sometimes cast iron is a bit porus and or grainy looking in some spots and you may be able to see this grainy appearance. The plastic gear can be removed without dismantling the movement. Unscrew the nut that secures the gear and remove it with a small gear puller. Just be sure to keep the puller fingers away from the key. Mark  |  IP: Logged Phil Hill I love my cootie bug Posts: 7595 From: Hollywood, CA USA Registered: Mar 2000 posted 06-29-2003 05:23 PM                  Leave it alone.... Stop fucking around with it...the steel gear is fine. I've put in over 300 of them in special venue parks & theatres...4/35, 8/35, 5/70, 8/70, & 10/70. The fibre ones always will eventually strip-out cuz the stock shutter is way too heavy for the gear. It gets worse with a standard sync motor that comes up to speed without any slow-start. At Iwerks, we developed a light-weight shutter that was retro-fitted to further lighten the gear load. >>> Phil  |  IP: Logged Don Sneed Master Film Handler Posts: 451 From: Texas City, TX, USA Registered: Aug 2001 posted 06-29-2003 08:13 PM                        I have torn down many of these machines...the one thing I found that wears out the intermittent & coupler is framing the machine, I have replaced intermittents once a year due to the projectionist will not frame the machine before going onto the screen...if the projectionist will frame these without moving the framing handle, the internal parts will last 10-times longer than if they keep framing the machines...so some reason I find the projectionist will not listen to me & continue to frame on the screen, which is a very un-professional...I have a theatre that does frame the machine without using the framing handle, & I never had to replace anything in 15-years....this is proof this works !!  |  IP: Logged Joe Beres Jedi Master Film Handler Posts: 606 From: Minneapolis, MN, USA Registered: Nov 2000 posted 06-29-2003 08:57 PM                     Don, maybe you should sneak one of the Disney intermittents in on your next repair job and leave them without a choice!  |  IP: Logged Gordon McLeod Film God Posts: 9532 From: Toronto Ontario Canada Registered: Jun 99 posted 06-29-2003 09:38 PM                     The spline has never been a big issue up here with competent projectionists looking after them. In fact they fave about the same track record as the DP75 and FP20's up here  |  IP: Logged

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