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Author Topic: strong MUT's Brian Zeisler Film Handler Posts: 39 From: West Chicago, IL, USA Registered: Jun 2002 posted 06-05-2003 10:57 AM                     since it seems that everyone has their own opinions as to what does an doesn’t suck about strong mut's, that I might as well start a new thread for it. Personally, I don’t understand what all the bitch'in and whine'in is all about for these mut's the following has many tips to speed up the build-up and tear-down processes so y'all dont have to waste your valuable time doing this arduous task. (semi formatted in the "build-up and tear-down for dummies" style) So here is my personal opinion on how to properly build-up and teardown using a strong (this "experience" coming from working at a 18-plex for a year and a 6-plex for 6 months, using strong at both places). For starters, im always at arms reach to the rewind table and I place the splicer there. If you don’t have a table, a chair or even the floor will work just as well for this demo. build-up: 1. Place reel "A" on the left hand side of MUT, on the skinny arm with the pin for sticking the reel on to. 2. Thread the head of reel "A" the series of spools going up to the platter to the waiting tail end of the leader. 2a. For those of you who prefer to do most of your work from the MUT, thread the leader from the platter back to the MUT as if you were tearing-down. 3. Now for the all-important splice. Place the head of reel “A” and the tail of the leader into the middle of the splicer (most splicers that I have seen have some sort of line in the middle where you would line-up the head and the tail). Stretch your tape (we will be using clear tape for this demo) across the two ends, mashing it down to remove air bubbles, then clamp down the cutter, then repeat on the other side to make that perfect splice. 3a. If splicing on the platter, be sure to lift the bottom of the front end slightly before clamping. This will prevent unneeded weight being added to the platter to prevent bending and warping. 4. Now it is time to start winding the reel. It is best to slowly increase the power over the period of 5 to 10 seconds than to jack up the power all at once. This will help to prevent unneeded bending and warping of the film. 5. As the film is being wound-up on to the platter, be sure to keep an eye on the reel. When the film in the reel is close to the end, begin to slow down or lower the power. For if you are skilled enough (skill coming with practice), you will be able to stop the film right at the tail end. If you are able to do this, you will be able to “save valuable time” (a whopping 30 seconds ) and energy. 6. Repeat this process until film is completed. Be sure to keep an eye on your make-up area when building for it is very bad karma to walk away during the building process. tear-down: Helpful hint: place small pieces of masking tape just above the splices. So when the film is spinning around really fast on the platter, you can easily see where the next splice is and know when you need to begin to slow down the platter so you don’t miss the splice. No need to worry about leaving sticky residue behind from the tape, because there won’t be any. (Let’s pretend that this is a 5 reel movie) 1. Place empty reel on the right hand side or your strong MUT, much in the same fashion as you did on the left hand side during the build-up process. 2. Thread the tail of reel 5 through the same series of spools, down to the reel. Keep in mind to have the film laying the same direction as the platter will be turning. 3. Then slowly increase power to the MUT over the period of 5 to 10 seconds. 4. Be sure to watch the “spring-loaded” spool. Be sure to try and keep the base of that spool at least a ¼ inch from the base where the mechanism bolted to the MUT. If this is done, it will prevent damaging the film. 5. When the splice is approaching, slow down the platter by placing your hand on the platter and using it as a brake. Don’t apply too much pressure at once, but gradually apply pressure while slowly turning the power down. 6. As the splice approaches, slow the platter down to almost a slow crawl. Wind the splice through the series of spools and almost up to the wind-up reel, stopping it a few inches from being wound up. By doing this, you will give yourself a convenient enough space to splice the head back on to the rest of the reel, while at the same time not needing to rethread reel 4 and saving yourself “valuable time”. 7. Splice the head of reel 5 to the end of the film. A single sided splice is all you need for this task. 8. Wind up the head 9. Using the tape you may have used to mark the splice on the platter, tape down the end of the head and mark it with a felt-tipped pen what the reel number is. 10. Repeat process with reels 4-1 If done correctly, the total time for this process is 45 minutes to 1 hour. With lots and lots of practice, you can get this process down to under a ½ hour. This was done assuming that you would have at least minimal understanding of the build-up and tear-down processes. I’m sure that the vast majority of the people on the forum have this experience, if not more so. If you feel the need to criticize me on this, then by all means, DO SO. And yes brad, I am giving everyone permission to rip on me should they feel the need too.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 06-05-2003 01:22 PM                     Glad you're giving permission, because your tips here are overly basic and not really helpful. <rant on> Anyone who knows how to break down on a Strong platter reading this will get nothing from it because all you have said is what a newbie already knows. Plus you have some bad tips in there that I don't have the time to sit down and explain right now. Also, 45 minutes to an hour? Please. A 5 reeler with proper breakdown practices can be done easily in under 20 minutes. Please go visit the tips section. You really need to read about the platter clutch, how to splice ("smooth out air bubbles"??? There won't be any if you are splicing correctly in the first place.) and the Building 101 offers a far superior method of marking the reel changes than your masking tape on the edge of the print. Also remember that until you work with other kinds of platters, you are speaking from ignorance in regards to the design of the mut. You mini-resume says you have no experience with other types to compare them to. <rant off until the need to turn it back on comes> Please send in a REAL picture and not that fake trying-to-be-evil one. You will not be permitted access to the sneak preview Level I section until you do. And have you read the FAQ/rules yet?  |  IP: Logged Brian Zeisler Film Handler Posts: 39 From: West Chicago, IL, USA Registered: Jun 2002 posted 06-05-2003 02:34 PM                     allow me to rephrase.....tear-down: yes, can be done properly in 20 minute or less. build-up does tend to take a little longer. far superior method of marking reel changes?!? where, didnt see one. bad tips?!? which ones and explain why??? and speaking of ignorance, if you would like to have a list of the platter and projector i have xp with, all you have to do is ask. dont automatically assume i have no idea of what i am talking about. yes, the list may be a little small by your standard, but compared to other "newbies" in this area, my knowledge is vast. until you force EVERYONE to post a non-retarded picture of themselves, LIVE WITH IT!!! can not enter the sneak preview level 1 section......oh, gee wiz, big loss for me, boo who who. and yes i have read the FAQ, info asimulated if you like, i can make i video on how i build-up and tear-down, then send it to you.  |  IP: Logged Brad Miller Administrator Posts: 17775 From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall) Registered: May 99 posted 06-05-2003 03:10 PM                     I've had enough of your ignorance and attitude on your recent posts. You're gone.  |  IP: Logged

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