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Author Topic: My first Xenon bulb experience
Sam Hunter
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 779
From: West Monroe, LA, USA
Registered: Jan 2002


 - posted 05-29-2003 10:30 PM      Profile for Sam Hunter   Email Sam Hunter   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
My new screening room project took a big step today as I received a new xenon bulb for my ORC. Most of you old timers and techs out there probably go about this stuff as common acts but this was my first time fooling with this thing. Anyway, installed the bulb, made sure the anode lead wouldn't arc and all that, and hit the go button. A few seconds later I had light. Wow! The bulb is a 1000W and the current level on the ammeter showed 55 amps. When I shut it down I noticed a red glow which was the anode glowing. I freaked out! After I calmed down a bit and thought about it I realized this has to be normal as an arc does generate heat. I called a tech and asked him about it and he said it was fine, as I just needed to reassure myself that I wasn't about to fry a new bulb.
I will be installing a venting system in the morning that will draw air through the lamphouse as long as my booth breakers are on. Is there anything else I should watch out for? I wouldn't think so. Also to my dismay I had to jack up the lamphouse about 1.5" so that it would line up with the projector. I guess if I would have replaced that Simplex mount with an RCA and not used the adapter then it would have lined up. In any case I have a nice light source now.
Paul, that power supply works great! 3 replacement regulators, 3 fuses and a blast of high-pressure air fixed it right up. Thanks!
My homemade automation works great, the xetron failsafe works fine and all I am waiting for to begin screenings is my new screen and automation card (Thanks Mark).
Be posting pics soon.

I do have a question about single projector setups like in platter houses, do they use dowsers and zippers? When I test fired mine it did like Joe's that he was having trouble with, you could see the glow of the anode after you shut it down. However my plan is to use black leader for the tails of my reels so I guess it wouldn't matter too much. I have a Simplex dowser unit that I believe I can retrofit to my BX-80, just have to build a pulser to operate it as I don't think you leave the voltage applied to those things?

Anyway that’s all for now.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-30-2003 01:35 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Neato Sam,
You should notice much improved colors too!! The card is on its way via UPS...
Mark

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John Eickhof
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 588
From: Wendell, ID USA
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 05-30-2003 03:01 AM      Profile for John Eickhof   Author's Homepage   Email John Eickhof   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Sam, Glad to see you are 'on the screen'! Yes the proper hangar bracket would have made the job a little easier,
but It appears you have it under control! I can't wait to see pix of your final set-up!! Kudos! John Eickhof

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John Anastasio
Master Film Handler

Posts: 325
From: Trenton, NJ, USA
Registered: Sep 2000


 - posted 05-30-2003 05:10 AM      Profile for John Anastasio   Author's Homepage   Email John Anastasio   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yeah, those anodes aren't like the plates on rectifier tubes, Sam! They're supposed to glow. I just set up my brother's Xenon lamphouse and he had the same reaction you did. The look of panic on his face when I shut the thing down and he saw all that bright orange tungsten was priceless. I reassured him that 1.) tungsten can't melt at that temperature and 2.) if you run 55 amperes through a wire that size, it WILL glow! Congratulations on joining the wonderful world of light.

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 05-30-2003 07:14 AM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That red "afterglow" makes it obvious why the lamphouse ventilation should be left on until the lamp has a chance to cool down. [Eek!]

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Sam Hunter
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 779
From: West Monroe, LA, USA
Registered: Jan 2002


 - posted 05-30-2003 08:12 AM      Profile for Sam Hunter   Email Sam Hunter   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Just finished my ventalation system, what a bitch crawling around in attics [thumbsdown]

Here is the almost finished product. Waiting on a go for the porthole from the boss [Big Grin]

 -

[ 05-30-2003, 09:18 AM: Message edited by: Sam Hunter ]

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John Pytlak
Film God

Posts: 9987
From: Rochester, NY 14650-1922
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 05-30-2003 01:02 PM      Profile for John Pytlak   Author's Homepage   Email John Pytlak   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
Here is the almost finished product. Waiting on a go for the porthole from the boss
Who needs a port??? Get an x-ray lamphouse and a screen made of phosphors that glow when irradiated. Only works with silver-image B&W prints though. As an added bonus, you can just stand in front of the screen for an instant whole-body x-ray fluoroscope exam. [Wink] [Big Grin]

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Sam Hunter
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 779
From: West Monroe, LA, USA
Registered: Jan 2002


 - posted 05-30-2003 01:25 PM      Profile for Sam Hunter   Email Sam Hunter   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You know, that would be freakin cool [thumbsup]
If I do it just right I can see what the neighbors wife is wearing [evil]

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German Marin
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 227
From: Verbania (VB), Italy
Registered: Jul 2001


 - posted 05-30-2003 01:54 PM      Profile for German Marin   Email German Marin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Sam, Did you check for the bulb/mirror alignment? When I chang the bulb I must to check the luminosity on the screen and move the bulb base (negative) or the mirror (some lamphouses has the mirror movible [Kneisley] or the bulb [Christie]). If you don't do this, the film could be fried or lost color (excesive heat on a little area of frame).

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Sam Hunter
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 779
From: West Monroe, LA, USA
Registered: Jan 2002


 - posted 05-30-2003 02:49 PM      Profile for Sam Hunter   Email Sam Hunter   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hey German,
No I haven't yet but as soon as I install the screen and porthole that needs to be done. Ran it shooting on the wall and you could tell it needed alignment.

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German Marin
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 227
From: Verbania (VB), Italy
Registered: Jul 2001


 - posted 05-30-2003 05:43 PM      Profile for German Marin   Email German Marin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sam, I didn't know the screen hasn't been installed yet. I wish it will be a great place to see movies!!!
Good luck Sam.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-31-2003 08:56 AM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sam,
Take your time as that lamphouse is a bit touchy to get aligned properly. Being your forst time you may get a bit frustrated with it.....they can do a pretty darn good job though.....
Mark

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Sam Hunter
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 779
From: West Monroe, LA, USA
Registered: Jan 2002


 - posted 05-31-2003 04:21 PM      Profile for Sam Hunter   Email Sam Hunter   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Well, I went ahead and tried an alignment and I think I was successful. The only problem I have is that my negative lens appears to be cracked [Frown]
It doesn't seem to affect the picture however and I am sure it wasn't cracked when I got it and I was quite careful handling it as far as finger prints and all. I am not sure why it cracked, maybe there wasn't enough room for it to expand when it got hot [Confused]

Anyway, anybody got one for a ORC X-1600 LH?
Later.

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German Marin
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 227
From: Verbania (VB), Italy
Registered: Jul 2001


 - posted 05-31-2003 04:33 PM      Profile for German Marin   Email German Marin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
When you align the bulb you should not keep the lens exposed to the light too time because it could be broken (high temperature).
The cause os broken negative lens (pre-objective or pre-lens) is the excessive heat (It's the first in receive the heat).

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Bob Peticolas
Film Handler

Posts: 73
From: Mesilla, New Mexico
Registered: Jan 2000


 - posted 05-31-2003 04:47 PM      Profile for Bob Peticolas   Author's Homepage   Email Bob Peticolas   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Sam,

When I installed our new Knisley II lamphouse, I wired a timer into the lamp circuit. We have one switch that turns on the blower circuit (lamphouse, Strong linear powersupply fans, and the roof exhaust fan). When the air flow sensor in the lamphouse trips, the AC to the power supply is turned on. When the DC to the lamp reaches it's boost voltage, the igniter strikes the lamp. 1-2-3 and we have light. Then I added a timer to the light switch: when it's turned off, the AC to the Strong is cut but the blower circuit is left on for twenty minutes. Plenty of time for everything to cool down.

If there is any blockage or failure of the airflow in the lamphouse, the light either won't go on or it will be cut off-failsafe.

Good luck with your porthole in the wall. [Smile]

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