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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Troubles with Kelmar Changeover (Page 1)

 
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Author Topic: Troubles with Kelmar Changeover
Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-17-2003 02:19 AM      Profile for Joe Redifer   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Redifer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Today I get a new changeover from Kelmar to replace the Simplex one that had gone bad. I try to install it, but it does not quite fit my projector. It mounts to the chassis just fine, but the pole that connects the electric changeover to the actual douser plate is the problem. I'll refer to that as "Mr. Stick" from here on out.

The problem is the douser plate and its hinge. The plate is connected to the hinge by a straight diagonal plate. When Mr. Stick is inserted into the douser plate and it is open, all is fine. When the plate tries to close, the diagonal plate rubs against Mr. Stick as it falls, thus pushing Mr. Stick out of the douser plate. The end of Mr. Stick that pokes through the plate is not long enough to stay in. When I lock Mr. Stick onto the douser plate with the washer and pin the plate simply cannot be closed all the way. If I rotate Mr. Stick around and poke it through the other side of the changeover all works fine and good, except it becomes impossible to put the projector cover back on at all since the slot is further over to the left.

I am fairly confident that I am installing it correctly, even though the manual is pretty vague (it's a Kelmar!). There is no other way it could be installed that I can see. One thing I did notice, though is that the manual says "Simplex XL" everywhere. I do not have a Simplex XL. It is simply a Simplex 35. Did Brightstar send me the wrong changeover? There are two different sets of holes on the mounting adaptor plate, one for 35mm and the other for 35/70. I of course selected the 35mm holes.

Any ideas or suggestions?

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German Marin
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 227
From: Verbania (VB), Italy
Registered: Jul 2001


 - posted 05-17-2003 08:13 AM      Profile for German Marin   Email German Marin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Try making a new hole.
 -
It's as hard as steel, but we did it to 11 plates.

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Ken Layton
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1452
From: Olympia, Wash. USA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 05-17-2003 10:18 AM      Profile for Ken Layton   Email Ken Layton   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
One of holes in the plate (as it comes from Kelmar) is for use with Century projectors.

IMHO, I have never liked Kelmar changeovers. I'm a "Zipper" man!

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Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-17-2003 12:00 PM      Profile for Joe Redifer   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Redifer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The holes in the Kelmar plate is not the issue. It is the actual douser plate itself. As the plate swings down, it pushes Mr. Stick OUT of the hole for the douser. Please re-read my original post.

Also I am not trying to attach this to a Christie projector.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 05-17-2003 12:11 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The simplex versionof the kelmar shoud have a single hole in it
The century one has 2 holes one for SA's and one for C's
I would sujest replacing the actual dowser blade

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Aaron Sisemore
Flaming Ribs beat Reeses Peanut Butter Cups any day!

Posts: 3061
From: Rockwall TX USA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 05-17-2003 12:58 PM      Profile for Aaron Sisemore   Email Aaron Sisemore   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Does Mr. Stick have tiny holes at either or both ends to allow a cotter pin to be inserted thus eliminating the possibility of Mr. Stick's dislodging from either end? If so, add the cotter pin(s) (all Simplex versions of the Kelmar/Strong douser I have seen are so equipped). If not, simply get the version of Mr. Stick that has the cotter holes. If Mr. Stick is binding or rubbing in its travel, some careful strategic bending usually remedies the problem.

-Aaron

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-17-2003 02:05 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Can you post pics? I'm not 100% clear on exactly what is happening here. You should just put the xenon on the exciter circuit and stop hassling with it.
[Big Grin]

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Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-17-2003 03:55 PM      Profile for Joe Redifer   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Redifer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Aaron- with the pins instact through the holes, the douser cannot close as I indicated in my first post above.

Brad- you can still see the image onscreen if the lamp turns off and film is still running with no dowser.

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Jonathan Worthing
Master Film Handler

Posts: 384
From: Hereford, UK
Registered: Apr 2001


 - posted 05-17-2003 04:12 PM      Profile for Jonathan Worthing   Email Jonathan Worthing   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
You should just put the xenon on the exciter circuit and stop hassling with it.
Depending on your turnaround of shows it is much better for the xenon to leave it running. Striking the lamp all the time takes hours off the life.

As to the problem with the dowser, as per Brad's post give us pictures so we can see the problem more clearly.

I have fixed a similar problem changing the bar for a cable. The old Westar changeovers use to have a similar assembly.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-17-2003 05:08 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
Brad- you can still see the image onscreen if the lamp turns off and film is still running with no dowser.
Huh? Your xenons take a while to dim down or something? You shouldn't bother buying more xenons if you don't need them lit to see an image! [Big Grin]

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Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-17-2003 05:13 PM      Profile for Joe Redifer   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Redifer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yeah, when they turn off without a dowser it looks like the image is burned into the screen (if it is a rating band). Then you can see it start to tail out. This is with the house lights up and the slide projector on.

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Joe Redifer
You need a beating today

Posts: 12859
From: Denver, Colorado
Registered: May 99


 - posted 05-18-2003 01:45 AM      Profile for Joe Redifer   Author's Homepage   Email Joe Redifer   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
OK, hopefully these pics help clear up the confusion (it is very difficult to describe without visual aids).

 -
Here is a top view of the douser plate (1) and the arm (2) that is used to connect it to the hinge. Notice that the arm is at an angle.

 -
Here is the douser in the open position. The rod, or "Mr. Stick" (3) slides into the hole (4) of the douser plate. The other end, of course, connects to the Kelmar unit.

 -
When the douser closes, the rod (5) is pushed outward laterally by the arm (2), causing it to slide out of the hole (6). If I put the cotter pin on, lateral movement is prevented, and douser simply cannot close. Either way it doesn't work, and I think I would have to change the douser itself to a newer model. If I rotate the rod (5) around and make it so that it enters the douser hole (6) from the other side, everything works perfectly well, except I cannot put the shutter cover back on the projector because there is no slot for the rod (5) in that position.

Doesn't really matter, though. While I had the old Simplex changeover detatched, I was able to look at it at the bench and fix it good. So I don't even need the Kelmar.

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Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 05-18-2003 11:46 AM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Joe,

Sometimes slight rebending of Mr. Stick will allow it to function fully without causing any mechanical interaction (won't hit anything)..

As to the Essanay changeover (aka Simplex XL, SXL-5)...your stop plate is already down one nut (inboard side). Ever since the asbestoes scare, they haven't make the stop blocks out of asbestoes so they crack everytime the douser closes....without the block and with the Essanay flex shaft, the douser will bounce. Using a moder stop block, it shatters in a short period of time.

Steve

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Jack Ondracek
Film God

Posts: 2348
From: Port Orchard, WA, USA
Registered: Oct 2002


 - posted 05-18-2003 12:53 PM      Profile for Jack Ondracek   Author's Homepage   Email Jack Ondracek   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
Huh? Your xenons take a while to dim down or something? You shouldn't bother buying more xenons if you don't need them lit to see an image!
Nah... he just needs lower-wattage framing lights!

It almost sounds like something's missing. I put that assembly on 2 of my XL's. It does take a little attention, but the slotted mounting plate should have more than enough play to get it right... and one of the holes should work fine.

Ken... stop your whining! It's a great comfort to know that my dowsers have enough power to move my wimpy dowser plates, with enough reserve to tow a small Volkswagen!

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Scott Manley
Film Handler

Posts: 59
From: Austin, TX USA
Registered: May 2001


 - posted 05-18-2003 07:29 PM      Profile for Scott Manley   Email Scott Manley   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hey German...........how hard was it to get it to work on a Christie.........have had alot of problems with Christie changeovers

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