Apparently we'll need to fabricate the mount to the RCA pedestal, but I've been told that the projector to soundhead mounting is standard, and the two should go together without problem. It's hard to tell if this is the case without disassembling, which I don't want to do if I don't have to, until the actual switch.

I need to know before I order the LED reader for the Simplex, so does anyone know if this will this work?

thanks,

Finding an adapter to mount the Simplex sound head to the pedistal could be a major problem. You will probably have to get a different drive gear, too. Mechanically, the BX* will mount to the Simplex sound head, providing you have the flatbar that bolts to the projector head's bottom. Without that, you are dead in the water.

And be careful with the bolt lengths that are used to bolt the bar to the projector head. If they are too long, you will bust the BX* casting.

Call your nearest WOLK dealer for the proper adapter to mate your pedestal to the Simplex soundhead. Wolk has come up with, in the past year, brackets to go either way, RCA->Simplex or Simplex -> RCA

Steve

OK - I am trying to visualize what the 1020 looks like. If it is like the 1004 or 1007, then I say: BAH!

I would use it only if that is all I had. They are a good soundhead, don't get me wrong on that. On a used equipment installation, I will accept either an RCA 90** or a Simplex SH-10**, whatever is available.

The thing that irritates me about some of the older SH10** sound heads is their lateral guide roller bracket. They have been known to snap off on the head, warp, and allow the film to skew all over the place, and the release trigger set screw works loose and screws up the locking shaft. However, I never had that problem with the 5-Star.

I never had an RCA fall apart......but I have had plenty of Simplex's fall apart in that area.

Why go through the expense of buying an adapter, gear, and all that other crap when you don't need it? Use the RCA and just put the reverse scan in it. That's all.

Sounds like you are making too much unnecessary work for yourself, and what you gain will be next to nothing, unless your 9030 is in a bad need of overhaul.

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Steve

Gordon, those 1020's have deeper compartments to store more crap in.

Does or did the 1020 have that exciter turret that never worked properly? Or were they discontinued as a bad idea in that model?

As to the Simplex vintages. The exciter "turret" as you call it was only on the indoor models (those models also shouldn't have springs on their door stays since gravity would keep the doors open). The exciter holder we all think of in the Simplex was really the Drive-In holder....

However, most people replaced that crappy turret with the drive-in holder and Simplex did indeed can the turreted exciter lamp in the SH-1020 version which was common to both indoor and drive in.

Century had one of the coolest double exciter holders though...one pointing up, one pointing down. Separate lateral adjustments for each too. In fact, the Uptown still uses them. Why Century discontinued it so long ago is beyond me. It worked and, unlike Simplex, you couldn't just pull out the single Century exciter holder.

Steve

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