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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Metric ultrasonic splicer adjustment

   
Author Topic: Metric ultrasonic splicer adjustment
Jan Hackett
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 148
From: Albuquerque, NM, USA
Registered: Apr 2002


 - posted 04-22-2002 06:19 PM      Profile for Jan Hackett   Email Jan Hackett   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I love this forum. Cannnot wait to get my booth pictires uploaded. Anyway you all have great answers so I shall throw another question your way. I have two 8:70 metric splicers. One is working ...My second one is out of adjustment and causing film to stretch a bit too much at splice. Is there a way for me to adjust this. Was going to send to Metric to repair but they want 700$. How hard can it be?

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Erick Akers
Arse Kicker

Posts: 201
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Registered: May 2001


 - posted 11-05-2003 01:44 PM      Profile for Erick Akers   Email Erick Akers   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Just wanted to bump this topic up to the top as quite a few of us now own Metric Splicers.

Following a link provided by John Pytlak regarding
Ultrasonic Splicing tips for Estar Base films,
this list of tips were provided.

quote:

1. Be sure the line voltage is constant,and matches the setting of the splicer's internal multiple tap transformer. The 50 Khz ultrasonic generator runs best at an input of 117 volts.
Metric recommends a constant voltage transformer if the incoming power varies in voltage.

2. "Tune" the 50 KHz power supplyper metric's instructions. Use an oscilloscope, and adjust for the best sine wave and minimal power supply current.

3. Always splice with the base side if the film tward the ultrasonic "horn"--- this assures maximum transfer of energy to the base to make a strong weld.

4. Adjust the Anvil Pressure so that the splicer just produces an audible (harmonic) "squeal" as the roller traverses the entire width of the film.If the "squeal" is heard only at the film edges, the center of the weld will be weak. Too much pressure may result in a splice that is brittle.

5. The best Anvil Speed is about 6 seconds for 35mm film. For 70mm film, the optimum speed should be somewhere around 12 seconds to traverse the full width of film.

6. Always practice making splices on the type of film you will be using, and test splices for tensile (pull) strength, brittleness (flexing) and peel apart (twisting), as you optimise the settings.
quote:

After reading this, and having a look inside, I also do not think that this would be too difficult to acomplish.

Has anyone actually adjusted one on their own, and is this information provided in the manual?

There doesn't seem to be a copy for any Metric Splicer model listed in the manuals section.

Thanks,

Erick

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System Notices
Forum Watchdog / Soup Nazi

Posts: 215

Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 09-20-2016 04:28 PM      Profile for System Notices         Edit/Delete Post 

It has been 4703 days since the last post.


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Don Furr
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 509
From: Sun City, Ca USA
Registered: Nov 2002


 - posted 09-20-2016 04:28 PM      Profile for Don Furr   Email Don Furr   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I've researched this in both available Forums and haven't found the answer to my dilemma.
My 3001 Ultrasonic Splicer works perfectly on polyester film. Has anyone actually arrived at the perfect adjustment on the splicer to make acceptable splices with acetate film stock? Acetate stock seems to melt too much using the polyester setting so I'm wondering if a speed up of the anvil block would be the answer? Also because polyester stock is thinner than acetate, would adjusting the pressure bearing down on the film be the answer?
Any ideas?

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 09-20-2016 08:16 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You would have to ask the guys at Metric that question. They are still around...

Mark

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 09-20-2016 09:58 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
You can't use the ultrasonic to weld acetate film. Use tape or cement.

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Simon Wyss
Film Handler

Posts: 80
From: Basel, BS, Switzerland
Registered: Apr 2011


 - posted 09-23-2016 02:11 AM      Profile for Simon Wyss   Email Simon Wyss   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, you can. Acetate melts easier than polyester, for this reason the bond is not the best but it can be done. I did it for a running time, would never send back a print with such joints. Of course, chemical splices are best with AC and nitrate film.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 09-23-2016 10:04 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Simon, I know what you are saying. Yes you CAN do it with some adjustments, but why make a splice on acetate with an ultrasonic when we all know it won't last over time? If I'm missing something here then please do enlighten me (and everyone else).

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Simon Wyss
Film Handler

Posts: 80
From: Basel, BS, Switzerland
Registered: Apr 2011


 - posted 09-29-2016 01:24 AM      Profile for Simon Wyss   Email Simon Wyss   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Got me. For sure one wants to make a cement splice with AC base film, plane-press-perfect. Leo Cattozzo (that is how his name goes correctly) was allergic to acetone and many people shudder by the smell of film cement. So I tried it once.

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