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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » Multimeters in the booth (Page 1)

 
This topic comprises 2 pages: 1  2 
 
Author Topic: Multimeters in the booth
Ken Lackner
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1907
From: Atlanta, GA, USA
Registered: Sep 2001


 - posted 02-02-2002 01:27 PM      Profile for Ken Lackner   Email Ken Lackner   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Do any of you use a multimeter for any work in the booth? I supposed this would a apply more to the techs than the projections. But I want to be a tech, which is why I am currently studying electronics.

I went to Grainger to check out what kind of meters are available. I just wanted to get an idea of what's out there and the prices. The guy said he couldn't even begin to help me with selecting one unless I knew exactly what I needed it for - what measurements I would be taking and what ranges I would be using. So, what do you guys use your DMM's for?

About brand names. I know Fluke is really good. Are there others? Are there any to avoid? I'm currently looking at the Wavetek Meterman models 35 XL (almost sounds like a Simplex projector, eh? ) and the 2015 because I can get a good educational discount on those. Anybody know anything about these two meters? Thanks in advance for your help.

------------------
This one time, at Projection Camp, I stuck a xenon bulb....


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Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001


 - posted 02-02-2002 01:37 PM      Profile for Will Kutler   Email Will Kutler   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Flukes are about the best you can buy. Personally, I have always prefered anaglog meters. And do not forget the amperage/current attachment!

Yes, a multimeter is definatly great to have in the booth! Cna be used to troubleshoot any electrical problem...but you must know how to use one correctly!

Be sure you know what you are doing with the instrument. I actually had one dumbass who thought himself a "badass" projectionist insist that the multimeter was a platter tachometer !

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Dennis Atkinson
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 129
From: Birch Run Michigan
Registered: Feb 2000


 - posted 02-02-2002 01:55 PM      Profile for Dennis Atkinson   Author's Homepage   Email Dennis Atkinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have two DMM's.
One is easy to use / simple.
The other one has a manual you cannot believe.

Fluke is good, I have a Beckman I like also.
My fav option on a meter is
a beeper or tone feedback when checking continuity.
You don't always have enough light to see the LCD of the meter.

Dennis

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Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001


 - posted 02-02-2002 02:21 PM      Profile for Will Kutler   Email Will Kutler   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Whenever you use a meter, visual inspection of the component is also a must! On one ocassion, I had to work on a Christie SLC console where the contactor relay crapped out resulting in much burned up wiring. I used the meter to inspect all of the system components, and had to do an emergency run to ACE Hardware where I purchased new wire and terminals. One wire in particular tested ok, but my gut told me to replace it as the insulation had sustained a little heat damage. Well, I did not listen to my gut and reused that wire that tested good. The system ops checed ok once I completed repairs. About a week later, that lamphouse was once again having problems striking. I knew straight off exactly what it was. I replaced that wire, and all was good. Anyhow, once I removed that wire, I tested it and it still tested good. So the moral of the story is to use the meter, but also rely on visual inspection!

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John Walsh
Film God

Posts: 2490
From: Connecticut, USA, Earth, Milky Way
Registered: Oct 1999


 - posted 02-02-2002 02:24 PM      Profile for John Walsh   Email John Walsh   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Fluke, Wavetek, Beckman, Simpson are all good meters. Fluke was quite aggreessive in their marketing a few years ago which is why you see many around today. Fancy meters include frequency, capactance, inductance, true RMS, so you could pay a lot for one if you want extra features. Many digital meters have overload protection (fuseless) on them to protect the meter if you, say, try measuring 240 volts while leaving it set to measure restance. I'd also get the protective cover (usually an option) to protect the meter if you drop or bang it somehow. I tend to avoid meters that require you to buy optional "attachments" that attach to the meter.

If you are buying a meter that will stay in the booth and used by several people, I'd suggest a cheaper ($40) analog VOM meter. If you are buying it for your own use, then get something good.

I've used a classic analog Simpson 260 (series 5) meter for almost 30 years. Has the right ranges for booth use. While the digital meters are tempting, I like having the analog meter to watch for strange things like having unexpected capactance in a circuit. But I admit it's a bit big to haul around.

Almost as important as the meter is: Get good probes/leads. Nothing's worse than trying to measure something and having to wiggle the leads to stay connected. Get pointy probes, alligator clips, hooks, bananna jacks, etc. Usually you can buy a kit with everything.

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Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 02-02-2002 02:33 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Been there done that Will and I couldn't agree more. A tip to Ken, if the wire that looks charred is "extra large" but still tests ok, definitely replace it! That sucker will be carrying a lot of current and a damaged section will keep the current from flowing freely. Also you can get replacement wire and clamping connectors at big places like Home Depot, but don't be surprised if they don't melt apart within a week. Many electrical items that the Home Depot sells is not quite up to what your lamphouse is capable of doing to it. Make sure whatever you are doing the cable and connectors can handle the load. When in any doubt, get an experienced tech to make the call or contact the manufacturer for an opinion or their replacement cables.

BTW, you should invest in a digital camera if you are going to get into any tech work. Many times a description just isn't good enough, but a quick email with pics will allow another tech to be able to see what your problem is and talk you through it.

And don't touch that big round cylindrical thing!!! Them capacitors can be overly exciting to the unsuspecting. (No, I have yet to actually shock myself on one, but have seen well seasoned techs do it.)


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Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001


 - posted 02-02-2002 03:08 PM      Profile for Will Kutler   Email Will Kutler   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Brad...

Thanks for mentioning about wire ratings. Wiring and hoses have info printed on them. This info is both the spec ratings and a line that will tell you if you are twisting the new wire or hose. The new wire that I installed into that lamphouse met or exceeded the origional equipment.

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Gordon McLeod
Film God

Posts: 9532
From: Toronto Ontario Canada
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-02-2002 03:32 PM      Profile for Gordon McLeod   Email Gordon McLeod   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Metrex also makes good (and disposabley cheap) Digital Multi Meters

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John Anastasio
Master Film Handler

Posts: 325
From: Trenton, NJ, USA
Registered: Sep 2000


 - posted 02-02-2002 03:58 PM      Profile for John Anastasio   Author's Homepage   Email John Anastasio   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I've used both Simpson and Fluke. They're both great meters, but one's a self-ranging DMM and the other's an analog. I find that the analog meter is a lot easier to see. I use 'em both, but if I was going to buy a new meter today, I'd buy the analog. If you're using it with audio circuits, you can see the meter move. With a DMM, all you see is numbers changing....if you can see the numbers at all.

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Randy Stankey
Film God

Posts: 6539
From: Erie, Pennsylvania
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 02-02-2002 04:08 PM      Profile for Randy Stankey   Email Randy Stankey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Whenever I bought wire and connectors from a local "consumer" outlet like Lowes or Home Depot I would always buy it the next size larger or the next grade higher than I thought I would need. (If practical).
I figure if the equipment in question used 14 AWG and I used 12 AWG it wouldn't hurt anything and would provide a safety margin against the same problem occurring again. On the other hand buy wire that's smaller than you need and you're asking for trouble.

On meters, I'd buy Fluke. (If it works it's a Fluke! )
You'd need to be able to measure AC and DC voltage up to 240+ volts. (I believe most meters are rated up to 600 or 1000 volts, depending on the kind you buy.)
You'd need to be able to measure current up to, what, 100 amps? You might need to buy an accessory called a "shunt" to measure current that large with some meters. If you buy a clamp-on (ring) probe you won't have to worry about that so much.
You'll need to measure resistance/continuity. If you get the kind that has diode (and other component checking) functions built in to them it makes your life a lot easier.

Every booth needs to have a good meter handy even if the staff don't make a lot of their own repairs. It will save your ass many times to have one handy when a diode blows or when an unseen breaker trips off.
You can teach one or two of the "smart people" in the building to use a meter to test for voltage and how to check a diode. Once you have somebody like that, (IF you can get somebody like that ) it can save you a trip and potentially get the show on screen much faster. You can get that person on the phone and tell them, "Use the meter and tell me if there is voltage between 'wire A' and 'wire B'."
At the very least you can use that to tell if the call is a real emergency or if it's one that can wait until you make your next rounds.

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Jeff Stricker
Master Film Handler

Posts: 481
From: Calumet, Mi USA
Registered: Nov 1999


 - posted 02-02-2002 04:19 PM      Profile for Jeff Stricker   Email Jeff Stricker   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You can't beat the classic Simpson 260 for all around
troubleshooting. It won't have the accuracy of a DMM,
but for checking continuity, diodes and measuring
most voltages it's just fine. Also watching the pointer
movement allows you to make adjustments like bias
settings intuitively. (It's difficult to judge
increases and decreases by looking at flashing
LED or LCD displays.) A good "260" can be found in the
used market for $30 - $40.


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Frank Angel
Film God

Posts: 5305
From: Brooklyn NY USA
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 02-03-2002 10:17 AM      Profile for Frank Angel   Author's Homepage   Email Frank Angel   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Agreed -- there's something very human about that swinging needle....analog over digital. Hmmmm, that's getting to sound familiar.

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Dave Macaulay
Film God

Posts: 2321
From: Toronto, Canada
Registered: Apr 2001


 - posted 02-03-2002 11:33 AM      Profile for Dave Macaulay   Email Dave Macaulay   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You're kidding about the Simpson 260, right?
It is a fine analog test meter, but it's the size of a lunchbox, heavy, and quite delicate. This is a bench meter, not one to use on or in a projector and particularly not one to travel with.
I've used the 260, other analogs, and digital meters. I carry a Fluke 87 that's small, light, and near bulletproof. Thee is no extra feature of the analog meter that I miss or need - and I use some features in the 87 that no analog has.
Not needing batteries to measure voltage and current is a sweet deal, but I'm not giving up half my toolbox to a 260.

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Ken Lackner
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1907
From: Atlanta, GA, USA
Registered: Sep 2001


 - posted 02-03-2002 12:48 PM      Profile for Ken Lackner   Email Ken Lackner   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks for all your input!

We have Simpsons -- perhaps even the 260, I don't remember -- in the electronics labs at my school. I prefer the BK Precision DMMs that every station has.

My booth already has a very cheap analog meter. I am looking to buy one for myself. Are true RMS and frequency going to be measured in the booth? That's the main difference between the Wavetek 35 XL and 2015 that I mentioned in my first post. (I edited the first post to include links to those models on the Wavetek website.) The 2015 looks really nice, but it's twice the price, even after student discount.

So what do you guys think?

Brad, thanks for the tip on the caps.

------------------
This one time, at Projection Camp, I stuck a xenon bulb....


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Matthew Bailey
Master Film Handler

Posts: 461
From: Port Arthur,TX
Registered: Sep 2000


 - posted 02-03-2002 12:57 PM      Profile for Matthew Bailey   Email Matthew Bailey   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
My brother has thic catalog of surplus reconditoned test equipment.
I wonder how much a reconditioned RCA or HP analogue meter would sell for.

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