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» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » RCA SoundHead Rebuild? (Page 1)

 
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Author Topic: RCA SoundHead Rebuild?
John Westlund
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 204
From: Burney, CA, USA
Registered: Jun 2001


 - posted 01-20-2002 10:39 PM      Profile for John Westlund   Email John Westlund   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
We have an RCA MI-9030 soundhead that leaks oil really bad. I was wondering how much work and time is involved in rebuilding the gear box and where to get the parts for it. Thanks.
John

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John Anastasio
Master Film Handler

Posts: 325
From: Trenton, NJ, USA
Registered: Sep 2000


 - posted 01-20-2002 10:57 PM      Profile for John Anastasio   Author's Homepage   Email John Anastasio   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Parts are available from a number of suppliers like Ed Wolk in Chicago or John Eickhoff at NTE and they're not terribly difficult to rebuild. There are only three gears in the 9030. The new drive gears are made of bronze instead of brass and last a lot longer. You might just have to replace the upper gear, since that's the one that usually goes. Once you've replaced all the seals, it shouldn't leak.

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Ken Layton
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1452
From: Olympia, Wash. USA
Registered: Sep 1999


 - posted 01-20-2002 11:12 PM      Profile for Ken Layton   Email Ken Layton   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The gear box is a snap once you have removed it from the machine. The top gear is usually the one that wears the most. A good cleaning, check the bearings, and fresh gaskets are usually all you need. Don't forget to refill the oil!

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Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 01-20-2002 11:21 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
......And make sure you get the right parts in the right places, especially the oil deflectors and thrust springs. Some of those parts can be installed bass ackwards. If it is your first rebuild, pay attention to the actual placements and orientation of the parts as you dismantle the gearbox.

The parts blowup diagram leaves a lot to be desired for clarity.


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Josh Jones
Redhat

Posts: 1207
From: Plano, TX
Registered: Apr 2000


 - posted 01-21-2002 07:17 AM      Profile for Josh Jones   Author's Homepage   Email Josh Jones   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Might I also add that you will not get these machines to stop leaking. I rebuilt my gearbox and the damn thing still leaks. I even used that blue sealant and it still leaks. It is coming through the gaskets I would guess. Be very sure you put that thing together again in the right order. I can never remember where those stupid spring washers are supposed to go.
One last thing, if you are pulling it apart, replace all the bearings while your at it. all the replacement bearing for a 9050 only cost me 42 bucks, and that has two more than your 9030. If you take your time, it is fun and a good experience.

josh

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Will Kutler
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1506
From: Tucson, AZ, USA
Registered: Feb 2001


 - posted 01-22-2002 01:26 PM      Profile for Will Kutler   Email Will Kutler   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Before spending money on new bearings, inspect the ones that you have for damage, and reuse if they are ok. Remember w/bearings to not spin them unlubed!

Pay special attention to the manuals regarding oilshield and spring orientation! The manuals are correct--if you need to, blow up the drawings!

Remember that when tightening the gear cover back down to use a proper torque pattern. Under or overtightening bolts can cause leaks and ruin the seal. You may also check for burrs on the mating surfaces, and can inspect surfaces for flatness.

Make sure that you use the rubber style lateral guide roller, and always store it in the open position when not in use--prevents flat spots. Also, if you opt to replace the lateral guides pressure roller bearings, then use metal shielded type as they will be less "stiff" than the rubber!

Wolk is also marketing new motors for older RCA and Simplex soundheads @ $300.00

You may also look into a stereo cell or reverse scan conversion...check w/John Eickhof.

Also inspect your slit lens for damage. If it was not kept clean, it may have filled w/oil.

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Mark Gulbrandsen
Resident Trollmaster

Posts: 16657
From: Music City
Registered: Jun 99


 - posted 01-22-2002 07:59 PM      Profile for Mark Gulbrandsen   Email Mark Gulbrandsen   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
One thing to pay particuluar attention to in an RCA, or Simplex gearbox is the worm gear. If it gets really worn you'll see wear marks(like little teeth) on the face of its teeth. This is a situation where the worm will just chew up the new bronze gear in a short time, the oil will get dirty(black) quickly as well.
Mark @ GTS


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System Notices
Forum Watchdog / Soup Nazi

Posts: 215

Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 06-21-2010 10:55 AM      Profile for System Notices         Edit/Delete Post 

It has been 3071 days since the last post.


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Eric Robinson
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 538
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Registered: Jan 2005


 - posted 06-21-2010 10:55 AM      Profile for Eric Robinson   Email Eric Robinson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
quote:
you'll see wear marks(like little teeth) on the face of its teeth
Does anyone have a picture to show an example of this type of wearing? Is there perhaps other types of wear I should look out for as well?

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Robert Koch
Film Handler

Posts: 93
From: Williams Ca USA
Registered: Apr 2006


 - posted 06-22-2010 07:56 PM      Profile for Robert Koch   Email Robert Koch   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
As Mark and others have said ALWAYS change the pinion when replacing the worn bronze upper gear. Another popular practice that should never be done is reversing the top and bottom gears. The pinion will soon cut them out.

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System Notices
Forum Watchdog / Soup Nazi

Posts: 215

Registered: Apr 2004


 - posted 02-02-2019 01:58 PM      Profile for System Notices         Edit/Delete Post 

It has been 3146 days since the last post.


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Craig Hardy
Film Handler

Posts: 28
From: Barrington, New Hampshire USA
Registered: Oct 2018


 - posted 02-02-2019 01:58 PM      Profile for Craig Hardy   Email Craig Hardy   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Not sure if this is right place to ask, but here goes:
1.Where might I find original exciter lamp socket and photocell/holder to change 9030 head back to original mono?
2.OR, is there a cheap way to use 9030 that's been upgraded with Kelmar ATD-1275 but missing the CP-650?

I was given everything from a theatre that converted to digital 5yrs ago. 2 each: Brenkert BX-100's, Strong Super LUME-X with power supplies, Century base units, about 20 lenses scope and flat, splicers, rewinders, etc.

I'm no an exhibitor--I'm 78 and this is just home use hobby, so limited funds. I don't really care about stereo and Dolby---just want to read regular old optical sound tracks!

When these basement readers are installed the old parts probably just get tossed---or has someone saved some???

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Louis Bornwasser
Film God

Posts: 4441
From: prospect ky usa
Registered: Mar 2005


 - posted 02-02-2019 09:48 PM      Profile for Louis Bornwasser   Author's Homepage   Email Louis Bornwasser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The reverse readers will output 2 channel which you tie together and plug in a mono preamp as normal. Any low impedance microphone input will work OK. Contact Thomas Mohr at Kelmar.

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Lindsay Morris
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 233
From: Darlington, WA, Australia
Registered: Sep 2002


 - posted 02-02-2019 10:28 PM      Profile for Lindsay Morris   Email Lindsay Morris   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Craig, IF you are running Cyan tracked movies then going back to an exciter lamp will cause you some grief with Low level.

As Louis said stick with the Kelmar and run the output as a mono feed.

The older black & white do reproduce OK with a red light source but some sound a tad harsh most likely due to the higher freq response available with the Kelmar reader.

Theoretically it is best to use a white light source for the older tracks but a bit of top cut when using a red reader gives acceptable sound.

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Craig Hardy
Film Handler

Posts: 28
From: Barrington, New Hampshire USA
Registered: Oct 2018


 - posted 02-03-2019 10:23 AM      Profile for Craig Hardy   Email Craig Hardy   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
OK, guys, I'm encouraged now! So I guess supplying DC to the LED is a simple matter if I look at a connection diagram.
I'll contact Thomas Mohr, thanks!

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