Film-Tech Cinema Systems
Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE


  
my profile | my password | search | faq & rules | forum home
  next oldest topic   next newest topic
» Film-Tech Forum ARCHIVE   » Operations   » Film Handlers' Forum   » DTS : in and out

   
Author Topic: DTS : in and out
Josh Kirkhart
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 165
From: Austin/Houston, TX, USA
Registered: Nov 2001


 - posted 12-11-2001 03:56 AM      Profile for Josh Kirkhart   Email Josh Kirkhart   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Question: all christie equipment
Film is jumping in between the top rollers of the platter system and projector as it feeds. I noticed on the top sprocket and in some cases the center, the screw head turns out of balance. Could this be causing the jump and therefore be keeping my DTS unit from reading the timecode properly. My Tech said we should replace the inner shaft of the sprocket, will this do or should we replace the whole sprocket?

Kind of long winded but any help would be appreciated.

Tag along question: Its probably here somewhere but what is the absolute best thing to clean the platter discs with to keep down on slickness?

Thanks

 |  IP: Logged

Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 12-11-2001 04:20 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Just changing the shaft should be fine.

Remove the center brain roller on the platter and look inside it. Remove that spring and then re-install the roller. Your bounce should be gone at that point.

See the tips section for how to groove and buff a Christie platter deck.

 |  IP: Logged

Karen Hultgren
Master Film Handler

Posts: 492
From: Agoura Hills, CA, USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 12-11-2001 01:57 PM      Profile for Karen Hultgren   Author's Homepage   Email Karen Hultgren   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
It is very important that the film not bounce through the reader. Proper tension must be maintained at all times as well as a straight film path. The film should wrap flat around the reader's large center roller and the film must have a straight path into and out of the reader.

If you are having a tension problem, the reader's green LED light will blink a lot. You need to find out where the tension problem is first. See if it is in front of the reader or after the reader. To do that, run the film and gently press the film with a finger. When the reader's green light comes on solid, that tells you where the tension problem is.

If it is in front of the reader, is usually fixed by swinging (the reader's) auxiliary roller as close as possible to the large center roller. This produces the maximum amount of film wrap and adds tension. Sometimes adding a roller or a cleaning roller helps as well.

If the film is bouncing from the platter, then the fix your tech came up with might work. Be aware, however, that it could cause the problem to worsen. That spring in the center roller (on a Christie platter) is there to add tension. Of course, the spring must be in good working condition.

If the bounce is after the reader, check the projector's film guides, sprockets, and motor belt.

Lastly, it could be a reader that is out of calibration. Try swapping with a known good reader to see if the problem goes away. If it does, then contact us for a repair/exchange.

Good luck and see what works best in your installation. Please contact me if you have any questions.

Karen at DTS
khultgren@dtsonline.com

 |  IP: Logged

Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 12-11-2001 02:57 PM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Karen, can you please explain why dts always says to add more tension anytime there is a problem? The only time I have ever come across an issue with a dts not tracking is when there is uneven tension (getting tighter and looser over and over). If tension was such an issue, people running off of platters like Strong and SPECO would simply not be able to use the dts format whatsoever.

The way your post is worded is confusing the need to add tension with the need to keep tension even. Removing the center spring from a Christie brain will stop the bouncing, unless one of the rollers is damaged (usually the older black ones are suspect). The dts reader runs very happily with a lot of tension or virtually no tension. It's just those situations where there is a bounce where a problem occurs. Go to a theater with a platter that has virtually zero backtension and watch as the dts reader plays without a hitch and I think you will see what I am trying to clarify.


 |  IP: Logged

Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 12-11-2001 07:52 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Brad,

Now you need to put the spings back in to tension up your SDDS reader

Actually, the springs in the center rollers can be a help or a hendrence. If properly set and maintained, they will offer a smooth, higher tension payout. This can be useful if the platter is separated from the projector a bit and you don't want to add extra rollers to the path. But the key is that the lubrication on the spring has to be kept fresh and the spring should be formed to put just the right amount of tension on. I have never had a problem with them.

I would definately check the other rollers in the film path. I am finding, in a lot of places, that both green and black rollers are now wobbling and essentially turning eccentricly. This will wreck havoc on any digital reader. If you see that the film is jerking as it goes from the platter to the projector then somthing is amiss with your rollers. One of my customers has changed or is changing most or all of his rollers to ones with needle bearings inside (the metal ones for the flangless rollers) like are used on the MUT.

Steve

------------------
"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"

 |  IP: Logged

Brad Miller
Administrator

Posts: 17775
From: Plano, TX (36.2 miles NW of Rockwall)
Registered: May 99


 - posted 12-12-2001 12:57 AM      Profile for Brad Miller   Author's Homepage   Email Brad Miller       Edit/Delete Post 
Steve, Steve, Steve you wacky changeover guy you. Ok forgetting about booths where the platter to projector distance is greater than 15 feet, please tell me how more payout tension is better? I can find no reason to want higher tension. With higher tension, the rollers must be aligned exactly or edgeweave of the film will result. With higher tension if an operator makes a misthread the film will be damaged more severely. Plus with higher tension the film is at a risk of scratching during a film cleaning. So really now, who in their right mind would want to constantly jack with those silly springs in a multiplex? Better yet, who has the TIME to be jacking with them when there are much more important things to be doing? The springs are not needed and once they are removed, so long as the rollers are not "wobbly" the film will payout very smooth without further maintenance. So long as the film coming into a digital reader is smooth and constant, they will be happy.


 |  IP: Logged

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 12-12-2001 01:21 AM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Why not just add an additional roller or two near the reader head to absorb some of the bobbleing? I did that in the houses that had the CFS and Strong Micro-switch platters. It worked very nicely. No DTS drop-outs, and it had a nice steady green light on the reader head.

I don't think it is necessary to re-design the whole shebang when just an additional roller did the trick.


 |  IP: Logged

Josh Kirkhart
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 165
From: Austin/Houston, TX, USA
Registered: Nov 2001


 - posted 12-12-2001 05:39 AM      Profile for Josh Kirkhart   Email Josh Kirkhart   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
All your posts have been extremly great and helpful.

First, I tried more rollers above DTS reader before I wrote the post and it only served to reduce the times the reader fell out of sync. Hence the problem not solved.

I am posting late/early because of multiple build ups and techs for sneaks.
I'm going to go ahead and replace the shafts when thay arrive, but I am gonna give removing the spring a try. It just kills me to have only one out of nine theatres in dolby and it be a print of Harry. Manager doesn't listen when I inform him of these things.

Am sure this will take care of problem and if it doesn't I'll switch out readers and see what happens.

Thanks again, I'm sure more questions are abound, but I must now get to sleep. By the way Vannila sky is pretty good(but i'll post in the other forum further Brad, i promise)

 |  IP: Logged

Karen Hultgren
Master Film Handler

Posts: 492
From: Agoura Hills, CA, USA
Registered: Mar 2000


 - posted 12-12-2001 01:00 PM      Profile for Karen Hultgren   Author's Homepage   Email Karen Hultgren   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Brad,

The deal with tension is that (and you are correct) that tension needs to be constant. Most times I have found adding tension is the key. Very seldom have I seen tension needing to be eased. That is why I wrote that you need to find out what works best for your installtion. No two installations are the same and each may need different adjustments.

The finger trick always works to find out where the problem lies. Then, you just have to zero in on the location and make the necessary adjustments (earth ground the projector chassis, add/ease tension, replace a bad sprocket or motor belt, etc).

If anyone needs help resolving timecode reading problems, please send me an email and we'll go over it in detail.

Karen at DTS
khultgren@dtsonline.com

P.S. Visit our web site techcenter, free to all. Go to www.dtsonline.com, click on 'cinema' then 'techcenter'. Login or register (we share info w/no one and you will not be spamed! And, no pop-ups - don't you just hate those!). The DTS techcenter contains all our cinema manuals, troubleshooting tips, technical updates. You may read them, print them, or download them. If you have any suggestions to make the techcenter more useful to you, please send me an email. THANKS! Karen at DTS

 |  IP: Logged

Paul G. Thompson
The Weenie Man

Posts: 4718
From: Mount Vernon WA USA
Registered: Nov 2000


 - posted 12-12-2001 06:15 PM      Profile for Paul G. Thompson   Email Paul G. Thompson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Just for shits and grins, put the film cleaner on (Kelmar or Christie) if you have one. Those make EXCELLENT bobble reducers. Try Karen's finger test, also.

If you still have dropping in and out problems, I would suspect something is going goofy in the reader head.

 |  IP: Logged

Steve Guttag
We forgot the crackers Gromit!!!

Posts: 12814
From: Annapolis, MD
Registered: Dec 1999


 - posted 12-12-2001 07:50 PM      Profile for Steve Guttag   Email Steve Guttag   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Brad, Brad, Brad....

I can't tell you how many times in the past week I have seen Christie rollers (Green or Black) turning out of true and that INCLUDES brand new ones...sure the look fine but when running, the three centerfeed rollers will start to beat off on another and you can see the bobble come and go from very erratic to very smooth. The large diameter of the rollers causes the frequency to be so small it can oscillate since the rollers are semi-massive (with two different masses) the system acts under-damped. The springs in the rollers not only add tension but offer damping via the viscous grease inside the roller. It is kinda like the dash pot inside a penthouse reader...the job being to merely kill any oscillation. Once critically damped, no further tension or damping is needed. The system is certainly crude, in this case but it can be quite effective. IF Christie had perfectly machined rollers with pefectly centered holes, then there shouldn't be any bobbling but my findings are that they don't meet that criteria. Futhermore, the roller's holes open up with time and allow it to move even more. Another trick that might work would be to make the flangeless rollers have an OD smaller than the diameter of the film contact area of the flanged roller...that is, have the flangeless rollers runn at a different (faster) speed. This would have a natural tension that would put some drag on the middle roller.

Steve

------------------
"Old projectionists never die, they just changeover!"

 |  IP: Logged



All times are Central (GMT -6:00)  
   Close Topic    Move Topic    Delete Topic    next oldest topic   next newest topic
 - Printer-friendly view of this topic
Hop To:



Powered by Infopop Corporation
UBB.classicTM 6.3.1.2

The Film-Tech Forums are designed for various members related to the cinema industry to express their opinions, viewpoints and testimonials on various products, services and events based upon speculation, personal knowledge and factual information through use, therefore all views represented here allow no liability upon the publishers of this web site and the owners of said views assume no liability for any ill will resulting from these postings. The posts made here are for educational as well as entertainment purposes and as such anyone viewing this portion of the website must accept these views as statements of the author of that opinion and agrees to release the authors from any and all liability.

© 1999-2020 Film-Tech Cinema Systems, LLC. All rights reserved.