My problem is this: I cannot figure out how to get the switcher to acuate the high-voltage ignitor. Presently, I am required to use the "Manual Start" switch on the lamphouse (witch supplies the "no load" voltage to the ignitor via a seperate 115 feed) in order to strike the bulb. Once ignited, the switcher takes over and supplies current to the bulb quite nicely.

That Switcher should supply lots of open circuit voltage, at least 120VDC or more. Might be something in the lamphouse's auto-strike circuit that's not right. Did that series of ORC lamps have an adjustable strike point, or was it fixed? Sorry, don't remember...

You should be able to put a volt meter across the DC output and see what the open circuit voltage is. Careful, though -- if the auto-strike decides to work it might zing your meter but good.

The Switcher will work with standard AC Igniters without a problem -- it just has a naturally high open circuit voltage characteristic.

Pat

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I'm not certain that I am making the right connections between the igition switch and the swithcher. Currently I am using terminals 6 and 7 on the switcher (it is a 1994 vintage hard-wire) to close the internal contactor in the switcher. None of the other terminals are being used. Will the switcher acuate the igniter (generate adequate VDC) just by closing the contactor?

The igniter does have an adjustable strike gap. I am a little leery of putting my meter across the DC leads for reasons that you have already stated. Unfortuantely the installed volt meter on the lamphouse has not worked for some time. I'm thinking I will switch that meter out with a known good one to see if any no-load voltage is being supplied.

Thanks for your help.

Strong sends voltage up to the lamphouse on 2 & 4 (120VAC) and expects it back on 5 & 6 to close the contactor.

Terminals 7 & 8 are strictly 208VAC and are there to drive an upper blower on such lamphouses as the Ultra-80

Terminal 3 is for automation switch legs...goes out to the auto on 3 and comes back on 6.

Steve

This happened to me once, and it did so much damage to the voltmeter that it was rendered beyond repair. The manufacturer of the digital voltmeter sent me a letter asking me what I did to it. I told them, and they sent me a replacement meter free with a letter saying, "please don't do it again!"

Kudos to that voltmeter manufacturer. Voltmeters done right!

I don't think that Switcher has a terminal #7 -- as Steve says, 115VAC to terninals 5 & 6 will turn on the contactor and the supply, regardless of where the AC comes from. You'll get all the open circuit DC voltage then as well.

If the lamphouse is not trying to auto-strike, then you should be able to read the open circuit voltage and not worry about your meter. Just don't leave it hooked up longer than necessary.

I'm an electronics dummy, but... a zener diode blocks voltage up to a certain level and then passes anything over that threshhold. A 50V zener will block 50V. If you've got 60V hooked up to it, it blocks 50V and you should only get around 10V out of the circuit. The zener diode in the auto-strike circuit is generally used to control at what point a relay is activated to turn the igniter "on". The ORC Lamphouse should have some circuit like that to provide AC Power to the igniter. Take a look at the rela's contacts, see if they are badly pitted. You might look at the socket and relay pins for corrosion. If things are wroking right, you should actually see the relay pull in at some level of open circuit voltage -- like I say, the Switcher will provide plenty. If the relay doesn't pull in, suspect the relay or the little zener diode in that circuit being open.

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